Freelander 2.0DI loss of power!

Darmain, I would not say pressing the brake has anything to do with the vaccum or manifold pressure, as when i removed the brake pedal switch from its mounting point and physically had it in my hand still plugged in to the harness and the rev's were doing their own thing, as soon as I made the electrical connection to bring the brake lights on the revs dropped to normal, that was without touching the brake pedal, hope you under stand what i mean. That is what has led me to believe it is an electrical fault, anyway while it is running fine, i will get a scanner on it, clear any codes and run it, then if it plays up again, see what shows.

Just another idea. The fuel filter isn't full of water per chance?

[email protected] said:

Darmain, I would not say pressing the brake has anything to do with the vaccum or manifold pressure, as when i removed the brake pedal switch from its mounting point and physically had it in my hand still plugged in to the harness and the rev's were doing their own thing, as soon as I made the electrical connection to bring the brake lights on the revs dropped to normal, that was without touching the brake pedal, hope you under stand what i mean. That is what has led me to believe it is an electrical fault, anyway while it is running fine, i will get a scanner on it, clear any codes and run it, then if it plays up again, see what shows.

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It's normal for the fueling to be cut when braking. The brake pedal switch is monitored by the ECU for that purpose. The question is which other sensor is giving an intermittent incorrect signal?
Scanning may reveal a fault not serious enough to trigger the MIL.

Richard,

Any progress? I am right in saying that yours is ok when you press the brake pedal switch? Mine is the other way around... Mine is fine UNTIL you press the switch...

Luke

Hi Like, I have fixed the probelms with my FL, it has been sold!!, what a cop out, it was still running perfect and someone came up to me the other day and asked if i was interested in selling it, it was in excellent condition and eveyone commented on the condition. What a cop out i am. Anyway I will stay on this thread to offer you advice, as i am still not 100% sure what it was. Mine sounds like it did the opposite of yours, when it was playing up, if i pressed the brake pedal, the revs dropped back to normal. I found my self sat with my foot on the brake all the time when coming to a junction and stood still. What i would suggest is going round all the electrical conections on the wiring harness, unplug them check they are clean and reconnect them, thats something you could do yourself. some are a bit tricky to get at, but if you do a few then use it to see if it cures it. I will keep in touch. Regards Rich.

Basic idle stabilisation is controlled by the crank sensor and the needle lift sensor so start there.....

Thanks Chaser but whats the needle lift sensor?

It's built into no. 1 injector and monitors the start of injection so that the ECU can adjust the injection timing...

Hi Luke, how are you getting on with the freelander, did you manage to cure the problem, I have stayed in the Landrover world, now got a 1995 P38, so will be on here alot i guess.

Hi
Im a newbie on here and im not sure if ive posted this in the right bit...but heregoes !!!
I have a freelander 2.0 TD 1998 (R Reg)
Ive had problems with the red engine light coming on and sometimes losing power when its on, when i rev it goes off, sometimes it will rev high when idle on its own and sometimes fluctuate.
Ive read through the forums and it seems to point to TPS, I went to garage he put it on computer and it showed TPS and Engine Temperature switch. I replaced the engine temp switch but the red light still prevailed !!! I have now got a TPS online they said it was tested and have 30 day money back gaurantee.
I fitted the TPS today which was a nightmare !!! The red light still prevails BUT now my rev counter isnt working.
Can anyone tell me whether this will sort itself out after reseting it on computer ???
Thanks........I really do need help, it would be great if someone can rescue me from this nightmare im in ??

The first time my red light came on it took me a while to find the fault.It turned out to be a break in the exhaust,the flex joint on the downpipe.The fumes had clogged the air filter.New downpipe and air filter problem sorted.

Start by running it without the air filter.

Hi
Thanks for the speedy reply........I will check in the morning because its funny you say that because when it lost power today and it juddered a bit, i think i heard a clunk sound.

Ive been searchin on the forums a lot and the red light, loss of power, and high rev at idle, and rev fluctuating has pointed to the TPS

Do you know if it has to be reset by plugging the computer in or should it reset automatically..............and also do you know if it is unusual for the rev counter to stop working after fitting TPS.

Thanks stevieG