Freelander 2.0DI loss of power!

The aircon can also be responsible for the wet patches in the interior. I'd have a look at that as well...

Thanks for all of the responses guy's. Mine is still playing up but what I cant get is why it was fine for 2 weeks then started again?

I am no closer! It's going back to LR next week so we will see what happens...

Hi Luke, we are both in the same boat, mine was fine for about three weeks then started playing up again, just for info, mine if it is just stood stil the revs will as if someone has flicked a switch, the revs increase upto about 2500 to 3000 rpm then slowly drop down to what ever it wants, does your idle drop when you press the brake pedal, mine does, i thought it might ave been some kind of air leak, so i removed the brake light switch and pressed the switch manually with my fingers and it makes the engine idle go up when off then down when on, so i am going for a definate electrical fault, but what?? I know the CCU controls the brake lights and just about everything. will keep you posted. Richard

Hold the phone!! I think you're on to something here. The brake pedal, operates the servo, which is powered by the vacuum pump, which also sets the reference presure to the Manifold absolute presure sensor. If the vacuum pressue is not allowed to build due to a cracked pipe then the manafold pressure is likely to be measured wrong. And that affects fueling!!

Look at the vacuum pipes from the vacuum pump on the back of the alternator and the lead over to the servo and the MAP sensor on the bulkhead. With the engine running listen for hissing. Also, does the filter on the MAP need changing?

Hi Richard/Darmain. Yes mine does the same with the brake pedal.... I will check my pipes to see if there are any splits. Just to add I had a problem yesterday with the car acting like a kangaroo! I found the live wire to the fuel solenoid (I think thats how its spelt..) was cracked and broken. Since I have repaired this the rev's seem to be fine??? Not sure if this could of caused the ECU to go into melt down as it was receiving faults when the wire was touching then breaking?

I might be talking sh*t but mine seems to be ok for now!

Keep me posted and I will do the same

Cheers

Luke

Sorry Darmain but whats a MAP?

Manifold absolute pressure sensor.

As I understand it, it is a differntial pressure sensor the determines the pressure of the air endering the inlet ports of the head, compared with atmospheric pressure. The mechanism must require a vacuum source. I imagine that with this information, the crackshaft speed, the coolant temperature and the throttle position information, the ECU can determine the optimum fueling requirements.

if this wasnt functioning correctly, could it cause idle problems???????? would it flag the mil light??

Darmain said:

Hold the phone!! I think you're on to something here. The brake pedal, operates the servo, which is powered by the vacuum pump, which also sets the reference presure to the Manifold absolute presure sensor. If the vacuum pressue is not allowed to build due to a cracked pipe then the manafold pressure is likely to be measured wrong. And that affects fueling!!

Click to expand...

How many pints had you had here Darmain?
The MAP sensor just measures the boost pressure in the manifold, it doesn't have any connection with brakes or vacuum pump..
If it fails it should trigger the MIL

Chaser said:

How many pints had you had here Darmain?
The MAP sensor just measures the boost pressure in the manifold, it doesn't have any connection with brakes or vacuum pump..
If it fails it should trigger the MIL

Click to expand...

No pints Chaser. I believe I refer to the MAP sensor. It connects to the induction manifold, it connects to the vacuum line and it has a reference to atmosphere, through a filter. The other object I can see is the Turbo boost pressure sensor. That is a simple pressure sensor. Both items are fixed to the top of the bulkhead.

Correct me if I'm wrong by all means.

Luke, please confirm you have an L series lump in your FL, not a TD4, otherwise my words will be wrong in your case.

Darmain said:

No pints Chaser. I believe I refer to the MAP sensor. It connects to the induction manifold, it connects to the vacuum line and it has a reference to atmosphere, through a filter. The other object I can see is the Turbo boost pressure sensor. That is a simple pressure sensor. Both items are fixed to the top of the bulkhead.

Correct me if I'm wrong by all means.

Luke, please confirm you have an L series lump in your FL, not a TD4, otherwise my words will be wrong in your case.

Click to expand...

Hey no offence was intended, it's just your normal analytical thought process seems to have suffered a glitch.

Your reply has shed more light on the mix up, what you call the boost pressure sensor is the MAP sensor, the other one is the EGR modulator/solenoid where the vacuum is used to operate the EGR valve.

And no offence was taken Chaser, no worries.

I think there is some confusion here and I have to admit I need to check my facts are correct. I understood the item on the bulkhead the referenced the vacuum source was the MAP sensor. I'll have a look tomorrow. Cheers, Dave

Hi Darmain,

Yes my lump is the L series not the TD4.

Richard,

I seem to have accidently cured my hippo... The other day I went out to go to work and she started to Kangaroo down the street. I looked everywhere and eventually found the fuel solenoid wire was broken. It didnt look broken but with a little tug it came off in my hand. I repaired this with a simple connector and it seems (fingers bloody crossed!) to have solved the irratic idle problems aswell..... It has been ok for the last three days now so will report back in another few and let you know. See my other post "here we go again!" for a picture of the offending wire poition that someone has requested. I will take it today and upload tonight.

is the map an electrical connection at the back left of the manifold as you look at it???? i've just unplugged mine trying to find my idle problem, and it didnt alter any running of the engine, and also didnt flag the mil light???

Darmain said:

And no offence was taken Chaser, no worries.

I think there is some confusion here and I have to admit I need to check my facts are correct. I understood the item on the bulkhead the referenced the vacuum source was the MAP sensor. I'll have a look tomorrow. Cheers, Dave

Click to expand...

After a few jobs today I popped the bonnet and had a clamber about. After a close inspection of the back of the engine I have come to the conclusion that Darmain is this weeks piece of cheese. Yes, Chaser, you are quite correct, the device I refer to is indeed controlling the EGR valve. What a muppet :

However, great news to hear the problem has been solved. Please can you attach a photo of your repair for future reference. Many thanks and sorry for the confusion. Best regards, Dave

Hi Darmain,

It may seem you are not a muppet... The hippo has been a little **** today!
On starting this morning it spluttered, coughed and farted then ran like a bag of spanners.. On the way home however it was fine. Such a pain in the arse!

What is still to be explained is why things improve when you slap your hoof on the brake pedal. Is that still helping?

The engine idles fine until you press the brake pedal. If I dip the clutch to change gear but dont let it up the engine goes back to idle perfectly. If I brake for a corner then dip the clutch to engage another gear it idles high and starts pratting about. I hope that makes sense?

Hi Luke, I can't believe how tempremental this is, I was a mechanic for 20 years, worked on every thing from a lawn mower to race cars, from building to design, this has got me and everyone I know with the best knowledge beat!. Mine has been running fine for the past week since i had a fiddle, no definate conclusion though, I went round all the multi plugs pulled in the engine bay and all others i could see, i pulled them apart and checked they were clean, I have changed the fuel leak off pipes, i don't think they have anything to do with it, however, they were a bit perished, but it has been fine since then. I will double check the solenoid wire, but if i that broke it should cut the fuel off altogether. Great if it has sorted its self, but would like to know whart it was, however i believe it will come back, thankfully i can do alot myself and use favours from fiends with scanners. Will let you know if anything else develops. Richard