Freelander 1 vm04 1.8 petrol SOLVED

Hi, i just bought my self my first Land Rover, its a 2004, 1.8 petrol freelander. And I have couple of problems with it. In the mid console air vents, it leaks/blows cold air even if the fan is positioned to the windscreen and feet. Where can I start to search the problem? The second is that on the windscreen wiper lever there is the knob where you can change the timing of the wiper in the lowest setting, and that doesn't work, so is there a reley for that or where should I start to look the problem? Tank you in advance

The heater face vents do leak a bit. I don't think there's a way to stop air from reaching them completely.


The intermittent wiper delay is controlled by the Central Control Unit(CCU. I think there a resistor in the stalk, so timing errors would like originate there.

But it's more like blowing than leaking, and when I change the setting to blow from middle console, it's much cooler than to the window of feet. So, just easier to change the whole stalk?

BeardedFinnish said:

But it's more like blowing than leaking, and when I change the setting to blow from middle console, it's much cooler than to the window of feet.

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You need to check that the heater diverter flaps are moving. You can normally feel the air come from different locations.

The face vents only blow cold on the FL1, so moving the slider to close the flap is the only real way to stop them blowing.

BeardedFinnish said:

So, just easier to change the whole stalk?

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I'm pretty sure the stalk contains the resistors for timing, so errors in timing would be cured by a replacement stalk. There is a common fault with the wipers, where they stop wiping mid sweep, but that's a replacement motor needed.

Okey, so how can I see if the diverter flaps are moving? Are they in the fan behind the glove box? I do feel the change in the air vents when I change the settings, but I just want to be sure. An my wipers work perfectly except the wiper deley. Also, was there a problem with this motors thermostat? And if there is, how can I check if the thermostat has been changed? And should I flush the matrix? It gives me warm air, but not really a hot air, like more warm than hot. Ty again for everything

You can hear the diverting flaps move about, and the knob also the torque needed to rotate the knob changes as the different flaps come into play. Access to the diverter flaps is difficult, as it's behind the centre console. However the control wires can be seen on the driver's side of the heater unit, behind the console.

The thermostat isn't a problem on this engine, however it does have a reputation for blowing head gaskets.

The heater should be hot, but the diverting flap can go out of adjustment, making the hot setting rather cool.

The wiper delay issue is almost certainly the stalk.

So does that mean the ac doesn't work on the face vents?

BeardedFinnish said:

So does that mean the ac doesn't work on the face vents?

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The face vents only blow out cold, so as AC is cold, they'll blow out AC cooled air.

Hi, i got a new problem this morning. I was trying to leave to work, backed my car and started to leave when I felt like by back wheel bounced, then I heard metallic sound an the car started to vibrate. I have drum brakes in the rear and they have been stuck couple of times because cold and moist weather, could the break shoes(?) come of and they are making the vibration, it starts in low speeds

Hi, i got a new problem this morning. I was trying to leave to work, backed my car and started to leave when I felt like by back wheel bounced, then I heard metallic sound an the car started to vibrate. I have drum brakes in the rear and they have been stuck couple of times because cold and moist weather, could the break shoes(?) come of and they are making the vibration, it starts in low speeds

I'd be checking the IRD for damage. Has it been used with non matching tyres? Or with new tyres on the front, and worn tyres on the back? Both of these things put enormous stress on the IRD, which often fails in a big way, giving symptoms you describe.

I'd be checking the IRD for damage. Has it been used with non matching tyres? Or with new tyres on the front, and worn tyres on the back? Both of these things put enormous stress on the IRD, which often fails in a big way, giving symptoms you describe.

I'd be checking the IRD and rear diff for damage. Has it been used with non matching tyres? Or with new tyres on the front, and worn tyres on the back? Both of these things put enormous stress on the IRD and rear diff, which often fails in a big way, giving symptoms you describe.

I'd be checking the IRD and rear diff for damage. Has it been used with non matching tyres? Or with new tyres on the front, and worn tyres on the back? Both of these things put enormous stress on the IRD and rear diff, which often fails in a big way, giving symptoms you describe.

I'd be checking the IRD and rear diff for damage. Has it been used with non matching tyres? Or with new tyres on the front, and worn tyres on the back? Both of these things put enormous stress on the IRD and rear diff, which often fails in a big way, giving symptoms you describe.

I'd be checking the IRD and rear diff for damage. Has it been used with non matching tyres? Or with new tyres on the front, and worn tyres on the back? Both of these things put enormous stress on the IRD and rear diff, which often fails in a big way, giving symptoms you describe.

I take it you left the car at home and went to work by other means?

If you've only had the car for a short time and already the rear brakes have seized on a couple of times, then you have a problem with them.

The only time my brakes have seized has been after launching the boat and left overnight with the hand brake on.

I believe I've seen reports on here from your neck of the woods where driving through deep snow then parking up with the hand brake overnight has seized the brakes - but they shouldn't seize just because its cold and moist.

My car developed a leak in 1 of the rear cylinders - so I decided to replace the whole rear brake system - cylinders, shoes, drums, springs, clips. I was expecting it to be an expensive job, but it wasn't, the parts are quite cheap and easy to install. It takes more time bleeding the brakes afterwards than fitting the bits. I was lucky in that the pipes leading to the cylinders were in good condition, in the UK these have often corroded and are damaged when disconnecting them from the cylinders (due to salt used on the roads) - don't know what its like in Finland - but they are expensive if you do not make them up yourself.

If you do replace the brakes and the cylinders are OK, you could just replace the shoes & drums so that you do not disturb those pipes. It should be said that people often put the brakes together wrong and they don't self adjust properly. If someone has replaced the brakes previous to you getting the car, they could have installed them incorrectly. Not sure if this would result in them binding like this.

I think I have seen a report on here where the rear brake shoes delaminated, and there have also been an alarming number of reports where the little clips that hold the shoes in place corrode, snap and the shoes fall off the cylinders leading to complete brake failure. I'm not sure if these would create the symptoms you describe.

As Nodge has (repeatedly ) said, it could be your IRD - you would definitely have left the car at home if it was. There are a couple of ways the IRD can fail to give these symptoms - eg gears driving the prop shaft PTO slipping or the splines taking drive from the gearbox stripping. If you have lost drive, then the splines have gone, if you still have drive, then they are intact. If you remove the prop shafts (only takes 20 to 30 mins but not nice under the car on a cold night) and the sound goes, then it is (more than likely) the IRD.

It could also just be the damper on the VCU has come loose and is rolling around on the prop shaft - this is quite a common occurrence. People usually just use an angle grinder to cut them in half and use the car without them. This would be the first thing to check - its easy!

These are just some thoughts. Sure there are other things it could be.

Yeah, I went to work by other means. But I drove the car yesterday without any problems or any symptoms. I backed my car about 8 meters and put the 1 gear and left, I got about 2 meters when I heard the noise and felt the bumb. So it would be weard if it was the IRD, I haven't done any off road, only casual driving at max 90km/h

BeardedFinnish said:

Yeah, I went to work by other means. But I drove the car yesterday without any problems or any symptoms. I backed my car about 8 meters and put the 1 gear and left, I got about 2 meters when I heard the noise and felt the bumb. So it would be weard if it was the IRD, I haven't done any off road, only casual driving at max 90km/h

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The IRD does not need any off roading to fail - in fact it is more likely to fail on tarmac where the tyres grip better and wind the transmission up. Hence the need to have identical (make & model) of tyre on all 4 corners pumped to the same pressure - and a VCU working within spec.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-1-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/

BeardedFinnish said:

Yeah, I went to work by other means. But I drove the car yesterday without any problems or any symptoms. I backed my car about 8 meters and put the 1 gear and left, I got about 2 meters when I heard the noise and felt the bumb. So it would be weard if it was the IRD, I haven't done any off road, only casual driving at max 90km/h

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You need to check your VCU before moving the car again. If it has deteriorated badly enough (which takes years) it will destroy your drive train.
Google one wheel up test if your not sure.
It's possible your one of your brake shoes detached itself and caused the problem but if so you're very lucky as this would be the cheap fix.