Freelander 1 HSE No sound through speakers

I understand there are a lot of threads about this but I have tried all sorts trying to sort it. I purchase my 2004 facelift freelander 1 hse in November and they have put an aftermarket Alpine unit in and I only ever had 1 speaker working. Pulled it out this weekend to find they have completely butchered all of the adapter loom, so I purchased a new one plugged it in, now the radio comes on with no noise from any speaker. I believe its because of the amp but I have no idea how to get them to work together. I read that if you run a wire from ignition live to the purple and yellow amp wire this will give it the power to work but nothing.
This is the wiring when I pulled the unit out

Any advice would be great

Hi, welcome aboard, I see you joined today, and have been looking for similar topics in other threads, so I'm hoping you don't become a one thread wonder, and become part of the community...

Looking at the pictures of the wiring loom on your stereo, Butchered? Nah - its more than that.... Minced? not strong enough. Obliterated - that'll do it.

Before I or one of the others prattle away at the keyboard talking you through fixing this mess I've got to ask a few questions, how good are you with electrics? Do you have a multimeter? Do you have a Soldering Iron? If you've answered the last couple of questions yes, how good are you at soldering? And would you rather spend some time with a soldering iron fixing this, or just flash a debit card to get the parts to make it work?

The biggest pointer as to what's up is if you look beside the 10a fuse on the back of the head unit, see all those little wire tails in like green and purple etc - those are 99% your speaker outs. Those wee plugs and their fly lead wiring harness are usually bespoke to the head unit so an easy flash a debit card at the problem and make it go away approach would be buying a new head unit and a new adapter lead. I see from your comments you've bought a new adapter, so the question is do you want to make that head unit work, or get a replacement?

I couldn’t believe it when I pulled the unit out!

unfortunately I am very limited in what I can do, I’m not so bad with mechanics but I know nothing about wiring! I have zero tools for electrics

I thought instead of tying to repair it I’d just order a new loom. I want to keep costs to a minimum really so I’d prefer just get this head unit to work as it is quite a good one

I have a few options I can go for doing my research I can either buy and install the original Lr head unit and be done with it as I have a 6 disc changer. I’d prefer not though as I would like to be able to link up my phone and play Spotify

my second choice is to get a new head unit that has the ability to disable internal amps but this type of head unit tend to cost some pennies

last choice I believe is purchasing a iso to iso amp integration interface to install behind the head unit which should also the unit to work with the amp.. but my main concern with this is I don’t know if this will allow the sub to work with all 8 speakers

The red connector, white grey green purple wires, and the same colours with a black tracer - that is the amplified speakers out, plain colour +ve with black tracer being the corresponding -ve. Those should be connected to the corresponding wires from the back of the head unit beside the red 10a fuse, but I don't know how that would play with the Harmon Kardon amp? Ordinarily other in car systems with an OE amplifier use pre-outs (unamplified audio outputs) which are the phono sockets at the right hand side. That one phone you have connected is the one speaker you have or had working. If you follow the wire from the phono plug it goes to the grey white green and purple wires I mentioned previously.

You can keep the headunit, and get it for working for not a lot of money, but you're going to have to do some wiring, which, with your limited skills, no soldering equipment or skills, is going to be a mess of bullet connectors / coco blocks / scotch locks, but it can be made to work., just the wiring isn't going to be pretty.

Before you fitted the new loom, the blue wire from the back left of the head unit was connected to something, that connection needs reestablished. Then you're going to need find a way of connecting the green grey purple white wires, into phono connectors and plugging them into the back of the head unit. Without the ability to solder, you are either going to have to find some phono leads with the plug wired and two wiring tails, or an old set of speaker leads with twin wires rather than coaxial cable. or maybe these:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pcs-New...905852?hash=item5daa498e7c:g:-7kAAOSw4yte3gtg

I don't have time to do the online shopping for everything you are going to need to do this without soldering, just now, but it might not be all that expensive to get a local car audio / autospark to wire this up for you. Have a phone around, and tell them you are "looking for a price to get the eight speaker wires from an iso harness adapter connected up to for RCA / Phono connectors to plug into the back of the head unit." see what they say, and get back to us. And or you could look for phono / ca leads you can see with twin wires coming out of them rather than single coaxial cable.

If I get a chance later, I'll have a better look online for you...

Catch you later - Jay

This was bugging me so I looked a little further, found these need little solderless RCA connectors:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-Metel...s-Connector-Adapter-Terminal-AV-/152307369221



Get them, £5.25 for the four, wire them in colour pairs with colour in centre, colour plus black tracer to the outer. As in Green centre Green + Black Tracer to outer. Plug the four phonos into the appropriate ports on the back of the head (the ports should have identifiers engraved on the casing beside the plug) unit using the following colour designations:

• First Phono
  • Right front speaker(+): Grey.
  • Right front speaker(-): Grey w/black stripe.
• Second Phono
  • Left front speaker(+): White.
  • Left front speaker(-): White w/black stripe.
• Third Phono
  • Right rear speaker(+): Purple.
  • Right rear speaker(-): Purple w/black stripe.
• Fourth Phono
  • Left rear speaker(+): Green.
  • Left rear speaker(-): Green w/black stripe.

Make sure the outers of these (slightly larger than normal) phono connectors don't touch as the casing is metal and connected to -ve. If they are going to touch a couple of wraps of electrical / insulating tape around each plug will suffice.
As I said before you will also need to reestablish the connection to the blue wire on the back of the head unit, as this turns on the amp, but with those four phono's / RCA connectors, and the blue wire to the amp, that should be you wired for sound.

Ok I understand I think.. the only way to get the sub working would be through the amp am I right saying that?

Bodders said:

Ok I understand I think.. the only way to get the sub working would be through the amp am I right saying that?

Click to expand...

That's correct, or use another amplifier for the sub.

Everything's got to go through the amp, that's why the one speaker that was hooked in was connected to the unamplified pre-out and I've said to put the four pairs of speaker wires on the phone pre-outs. What I don't know is, on the back of the head unit, is there a sub out, and if there is, is it an amplified output or just a low pass filtered bass only pre-out? I also don't know if the wiring harness adapter(s) that @Bodders is using has a dedicated set of wires for the subwoofer? Or would we need to identify a pair of wires to splice onto for the sub's signal?

I remember on my wife's old Discovery 300tdi I had to do some creative wiring to get the subwoofer boom box on the tailgate door to work. From memory, it was a case of cutting a proprietary land rover plug off the vehicles wiring loom, soldering on a phono, putting that onto a new head unit that had a sub preout. Or was it an amplified sub out and I had to remove the original amplifier?

I know so little about the Harmon Kardon system that I genuinely do not know if it has a low pass filter in the amp and sends it's own signal to the subs. I think worrying about the subwoofer just now when there are no speakers working is a bit premature, lets get the main speakers working first then figure out the sub.

Jayridium said:

I know so little about the Harmon Kardon system that I genuinely do not know if it has a low pass filter in the amp and sends it's own signal to the subs.

Click to expand...

The HK amp has the low pass filter as part of the sub amplifier output. It's a 6 channel amplifier, which has high and low pass filters, before the amplifier stages.

Jayridium said:

I think worrying about the subwoofer just now when there are no speakers working is a bit premature, lets get the main speakers working first then figure out the sub

Click to expand...

Agreed.

Sorry for the delay I haven’t really looked into this yet, I was advised to try the incartec iso to iso adaptor to change the high frequency from the new head to work with the low frequency for the amp, I set it up as it says now it’s blowing the fuse every time, I have removed it all and it’s still blowing the 15 amp fuse, I have made sure there’s loose wires. I don’t understand what’s wrong with this..

@Jayridium the only concern I have with what you suggested is I don't want to mess with the original loom especially with the complete lack of knowledge I have of wiring

You haven't properly read what I said or cannae understand what I am meaning, and you are welcome.