freelander 1 accelerator dead
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GrumpyGel
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I'd say your throttle position sensor TPS on the accelerator peddle is broke or the wires between it and the engine's ECU have come loose or broke.
First i had problem with immoboliser,starter wont crank cz of kill switch so i changed kill switch n then car cranks fine but when i put ignition on car main relay vibrates and gving some buzzer noisy on relay and
Car wont start ,,, so found a bad ground on ecu ground ,,
I cut those 3 wires from ecu and connects to directly to battery and then car starts n runs idle fine but there is no acceleration response dead no but rpm stays at 950rpm whats was the problem??.tq
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GrumpyGel
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Is the ECU seeing a feed from the TPS?
Diagnostics will probably give you the answer to that.
Diagnostics will probably give you the answer to that.
just nw i test ecu feeds ,
ecu signal input : wires gets ohm , there is connection ok
ecu supply output : there is two output supply 6v ( 1 output gets 6v and another gets 15.1mv miliamps )
ecu earth output : there is two output supply gets 13.1v
isit ok with milliamps ecu supply ?
update: i jumped 6v wire to another wire that doestnt having voltage , car starts , idle fine & can accelerate...
mil adn abs light still illuminate
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yep i checked but supply missing from ecu , there is milliamps from ecu isit something disabled the ecu ?
GrumpyGel
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Have you got any diagnostic codes? A live feed would presumably show the TPS position - which would rule it in or out as the cause.
The TPS has 2 'potentiometers' - presumably linked to those dual inputs/feeds on the ECU. Rave says that it supplies them with 5 volts - not the 13.1 shown in the (working?) output on your diagram. It also says that if the TPS fails, it will lift revs to 1,250rpm - you're not seeing this, you're quoting 900rpm.
The ECU also takes input from the brake peddle and will "limit fuelling" if pressed - maybe it is getting a brake signal and not allowing TPS input. You do not necessarily have to see brake lights for a brake feed to be active. The brake switch is a complex thing with multiple outputs.
The TPS has 2 'potentiometers' - presumably linked to those dual inputs/feeds on the ECU. Rave says that it supplies them with 5 volts - not the 13.1 shown in the (working?) output on your diagram. It also says that if the TPS fails, it will lift revs to 1,250rpm - you're not seeing this, you're quoting 900rpm.
The ECU also takes input from the brake peddle and will "limit fuelling" if pressed - maybe it is getting a brake signal and not allowing TPS input. You do not necessarily have to see brake lights for a brake feed to be active. The brake switch is a complex thing with multiple outputs.
GrumpyGel
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Do you have any of the 'Amigo' lights lit? (TC/HCD)
thx ,,
yeap i gt before when earthed problem once i remove them there is no amigo lights only mil light
the ecu earth was in short so i cut them and connect thm to battery negative terminal directly ... after tat no amigo light
GrumpyGel
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All the wires in the car do a job - you can't just cut them and expect it not to cause problems.
Rejoin ALL the wires and sort out the real problems rather than creating more.
That's my view anyway.
Rejoin ALL the wires and sort out the real problems rather than creating more.
That's my view anyway.
hye sir, i rejoin those ground nw ok with grounding problem .. no more any vibrates and noise all
still the pedal sensor dead and i found there is no 5v supply at fuel rail sensor and 13.1v on ground and i unplugged fuell rail sensor wire ,, still car can start ,, this is normal or nt be should , tq sir
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td4van
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You need to connect black lead to earth (you currently have it connected to battery positive) and check for the 5v feed at the sensors.
Also are you checking for 5v with ignition on and a charger connected to the battery?
Also are you checking for 5v with ignition on and a charger connected to the battery?
Yes sir ,,i tried but there is still miliamps no 5v feed
GrumpyGel
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From your descriptions, I'm not really sure of the problems you are experiencing. It sounds like the engine will start and run - just not respond to the accelerator peddle.
I am not familiar with the TD4 - should the EML light come on with the other lamps for self test - but also go out with them? If so why is the EML light lit? Have you been able to read the diagnostic codes?
I believe the TD4 ECU has a 'limp mode', and I believe the ECU will also inhibit start for various reasons, but I'm not sure if there is ever a reason why the ECU would allow 'idle only'.
I'm sure if ever there was a case to get diagnostics on a car - this is it. However, if that is not possible, it does look like the first part to swap out is the TPS - can you get parts from a breakers locally for Freelander?
I am not familiar with the TD4 - should the EML light come on with the other lamps for self test - but also go out with them? If so why is the EML light lit? Have you been able to read the diagnostic codes?
I believe the TD4 ECU has a 'limp mode', and I believe the ECU will also inhibit start for various reasons, but I'm not sure if there is ever a reason why the ECU would allow 'idle only'.
I'm sure if ever there was a case to get diagnostics on a car - this is it. However, if that is not possible, it does look like the first part to swap out is the TPS - can you get parts from a breakers locally for Freelander?
yeah i tried with ob2 scanner bluetooth model abit chepaer that connects to android , it connects to ecu after 2 sec it turn and say ecu N/A
it connects but says ecu N/A
yeah eml light goes out after self test, and come back in 1 sec bck , stay on
td4van
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Tried what?
i check the voltage of fuel pressure sensor but there is no voltage at there n i use ecu scanner to data logging no fuel pressure on there ...
