htr
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,562
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- Central Otago, Southern New Zealand
They're not RRCs - nobody would pay the money for them!Business opportunity!??! Buy old ones. Have a K series expert to rebuild engines. Fit all new / refurb drive train. New brakes. Cut a deal with Exmoor trim for seat coverings. Could offer respray in any colour. Sell for reasonable wages amd modest profit to allow source vehicles to be purchased. If customer was to pay deposit they could spec it. Dreaming perhaps........
That's definitely something I'd considerand also convert them to leccy
That's definitely something I'd consider
I'd get a lot of batteries in my commercial
It's something that I've been mulling over for a while. Unfortunately I don't have the space or finance to carry out an electric conversion on a FL1 just yet. To make it worthwhile, would require a FL1 with a perfect body, which is the difficult part.
The batteries are expensive too, actually more expensive than the rest of the drive system. But a well engineered and fully functional E FL1 could be made for around £12K, on the road.
I'm on about doing a DIY EV conversion. Not getting a company to do it. It's actually possible to get a working EV conversion for well under £5K, if Pb batteries are used instead of LifePO4 batteries.Hmm i doubt that.
I'm on about doing a DIY EV conversion. Not getting a company to do it. It's actually possible to get a working EV conversion for well under £5K, if Pb batteries are used instead of LifePO4 batteries.
I'd be inclined to fix LPG/CNG and be done with it which is a 1'k conversion.
https://www.drivelpg.co.uk/news/bri...est-achievements-of-autogas-during-last-year/Those won't work if fossil fuels are stopped.
LPG is a cheaper conversion for sure, but suggestion of going EV wasn't to improve economy - it was as a way of selling rebuilt cars at a price to make it worthwhile.Hmm i doubt that..
I wrote to London Electric to see if it was poss to convert an early Land rover s3 and they wanted 28k just to convert it!!
Batteries motors etc..
I'd be inclined to fix LPG/CNG and be done with it which is a 1'k conversion.
LPG is a cheaper conversion for sure, but suggestion of going EV wasn't to improve economy - it was as a way of selling rebuilt cars at a price to make it worthwhile.
There are lots of places to purchase the EV bits from these days and prices have come down considerably. Really depends on what sort of power and range you want out of it, as well as the brand names you want on the bits, as to how much it will cost.
That's good to know. I know little about LPG vehicles, other than LPG is cheaper per litre, but also less energy dense than patrol.Yeah but a dual fuel car would still be "green" cost less than a 1/3 of the price and you still get to hear the KV6
Instead of having a FL1 that weighs as much as a small planet and handles like a moon, coz e'v's are very very very very very heavy
Once again, no need to keep it 'proper'.You get to keep the proper engine and value..
Plus..
Range would be an issue if you planned on going anywhere, charge times etc..
And the fact that the conversion would be cost prohibative..
where do you put the batteries?
An LPG kit can be purchased for £400 and fitted yourself, then inspected. running up to around £700..
compared to £5000 plus for an EV conversion..
Olus the weight and handling will be ruined.
That's good to know. I know little about LPG vehicles, other than LPG is cheaper per litre, but also less energy dense than patrol.
There's nothing to say an electric FL1 will weigh vast amounts more than a fuel powered one. The gearbox is retained, but the engine, fuel tank and exhaust system are all removed. The electric motor and controller will weigh less then a full tank of fuel. So this leaves the vehicle about 150Kgs lighter as the engine isn't needed.
This goes a long way to offsetting the weight of the batteries. If off the shelf 12Volt, 100Ah LifePO4 batteries are used, then 12 of them weigh just a bit more than the removed engine. These 12 batteries contain about 14Kwh of energy, which will get the reasonably light (By modern standards) FL1 a reasonable distance, before recharging is needed.
A lot of the weight in a modern car is the safety stuff, which the old FL1 simply doesn't have.
Once again, no need to keep it 'proper'.
The suggestions was to set up taking tired Freelanders and completely refurbishing/reconditioning them and selling them at a profit... but nobody would pay that much money for a F1, they're not 70's RRCs or Jag XK120s. You might be able to sell them as EVs though (probably not - but that's different to definitely not).
There's plenty of places to stick batteries in a Freelander - a load could go up front for a kick off as its a big under bonnet area (which would be all-but empty). Then there's underneath between the chassis rails. That's before you start to come in the cabin - even there, the 'fishtank' which is good for a few batteries and is external to the cabin and other bits and pieces. Assuming its going to be 2WD, you'd have options for driving front or back wheels, so the motor doesn't necessarily have to go up front - the easiest option, with a thin motor, would be to mount it in the middle of the car where the VCU is (would need stronger mounts mind) to drive back axle.
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