Freelander 1 Freelander 1.8 replacement speedo clocks

Hello all.
I am new to this and Happy Hippo family. Quick question to all who can help. I have found set of speedo clocks for my landy and I am not sure if they fit. Just sent message to ebay seller asking what year and model they coming from so will try update. they are slightly different to mine. Mine have fuel gauge on the right side without wee arrow The new ones have fuel gauge onnthe left side. Iam not sure if they fit my one.
Mine:



New ones:



And my question is if they will fit MY 2000

Best regards
Luk

Its more to do with the harness and how they connect. On the newer on show this will be later model such as like mine 2002. If your harness is able to swap around with the fuel and temp gauges could be used on the newer. On another note check the new one has all the lights working as mine had some cheeky bastolus fill in the frontage for the ABS and TC with silicon sealant.

Ok thanks mate.
So without altering harnes it is not straight plug and play. that is a bit of a shame. I know that the later models have low fuel light which I miss a lot. . my fuel sender have a four pin square plug so I wonder if its possible to somehow retrofit the light for fuel.

You can't use the 2000 onwards dash in place of the pre-2000 dash. The later dash uses a different standard of data bus and a different harness. The software between them will be very different.
The low fuel light is driven by software on the dash, not by an additional sensor in the tank.

Thanks Nodge.
Every day is a school day. Shame but understandable. Well that means that I need to find the way to get one somehow or start counting miles

Buy one from the same year and same engine as yours. Plenty on eBay.
Swapped mine earlier this year with no problems. The mileage will show as the car it came out of though.
Mike

Did You get one with low fuel light?
There is nothing wrong with my clocks. Just missing reserve light from my previous cars. Even old corolla had low fuel light.

Already had a low fuel light. Replaced mine as it was faulty.
As a general rule of thumb, don't let your tank drop below a quarter, then it won't pump the crud through.
Mike

Hope someone have somewhere dash with reserve. How can You tell the difference? did freelanders had them before MY2000? mine is registered March 2000 if that makes any difference.
Thanks for all info and advice.

No Freelander has a reserve as such. Freelanders with the chassis number starting from 1A have a low fuel light. However that's a warning that fuel is way to low.
It's a wise precaution to not let the fuel drop much below the 1/4 mark on the gauge.

So took a chance on a £1 speedo clocks from ebay and they do not fit cos plugs are different. Like this:


I have a set of clocks for freelander going for nothing if someone is interested. They have plugs at the back on each side. But have another question. Since landy shares a lot of parts with ordinary rover. Do white dials from rover fit in landy? Ones with two wide plugs and one in the middle like this

The difference between the ZR instrument pack pictured and the instrument pack from your FL1 is that it won't have the same three amigo warning lamps (TC/ABS/HDC).

I had hoped that a ZR clock might fit the FL1 too - but inevitably not, due to the connectivity that the FL1 clock had with the original stereo head unit. D'oh!

Mine does not come with original stereo. But You are right might not work as hill descent and other stuff is not there. Bugger....I have hoped that it will fit as the connectors are the same ....grrrrr

MIght be interesting to connect it up and see what happens!

Why do you need to change the instrument pack? I suspect that the pack can be disassembled and parts transferred from one to the other. On the other hand, things rarely work out that simple do they? LOL

Looking for something different and maybe let me have low fuel light. Clocks going for cheapers so maybe chance it.

rob_bell said:

The difference between the ZR instrument pack pictured and the instrument pack from your FL1 is that it won't have the same three amigo warning lamps (TC/ABS/HDC).

I had hoped that a ZR clock might fit the FL1 too - but inevitably not, due to the connectivity that the FL1 clock had with the original stereo head unit. D'oh!

Click to expand...

Hi Rob
DO you mean the in dash centre clock ?
If so, the ZR unit is a different pinout, however, all the FL clocks are interchangeable - ie - a 'radio' type wide display can be replaced with a later model 'narrow' display . you can even add the wide display with radio data to a later model FL however only the clock will work (a bit pointless lol )
You can also change the backlight colour of the clock if you like by changing the bulb colour - preferably using an LED .

if you need a few - or ECU / CCU etc etc lol - let me know ... I seem to have a drawer full

Hi Joe,

Yes, the central LED clock. It works fine, BUT you can't adjust the time!!! I partially dissembled the clock, but the PCB is, I think, multilayer - I assume that there is a dry joint on the micro-switches?

Anyone come across this problem before?

I happened to pick up a ZR clock for nowt so decided to offer it up and see - and yes, completely different electrical connector for the reasons discussed. Nothing ventured etc.

I might get a replacement LR clock, but surely this one is repairable? The display is otherwise perfect, with no lost segments.

rob_bell said:

Hi Joe,

Yes, the central LED clock. It works fine, BUT you can't adjust the time!!! I partially dissembled the clock, but the PCB is, I think, multilayer - I assume that there is a dry joint on the micro-switches?

Anyone come across this problem before?

I happened to pick up a ZR clock for nowt so decided to offer it up and see - and yes, completely different electrical connector for the reasons discussed. Nothing ventured etc.

I might get a replacement LR clock, but surely this one is repairable? The display is otherwise perfect, with no lost segments.

Click to expand...

Hi Rob.
there are no micro switches on this setup.
In the third image (sorry for the blurryness) you can see the PCB contact areas - basically two half circles - these are the switch contacts.
The 'feel' of the button is in the rubber compound used, The switch action is in the end of the rubber type material that the buttons are made of being a carbon coated area that effectively 'shorts' the two contact areas of the PCB (the little 'hamburger' areas)
That is it really.
Sometimes (well - quite often) it is simple a case of cleaning the end of the rubber push button unit and the pcb area - beyond that - a new unit is required in reality.
Hope it is as simple as cleaning - at least no 'switches' to worry about
Joe

I see - I didn't remove the rubber cones - so will do this and clean with contact cleaner. Hopefully that'll do the job!

rob_bell said:

I see - I didn't remove the rubber cones - so will do this and clean with contact cleaner. Hopefully that'll do the job!

Click to expand...

No worries Rob,
IIRC, there is also a resistor that allows a 12v (batt +) to one side (half) of the switch pads - again IIRC from the ign active feed, so if cleaning doesn't sort it (probably will) - then let me know and I will trace it back. It is a relatively simple circuit. The board is standard double sided not multi layer.
I also probably have a spare board if you need it ? - I am removing the internals and fitting an OLED dispay with boost gauge (analogue and digital - and clock / day / date etc)
If needed I can pop you one in the post gratis. - just send me your old one back as I use part of the pcb as a retainer for the oled unit. Only need to send the pcb nothing else.
Joe