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Freelander 1 1.8 clutch probems

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by jkk114l, Jun 21, 2017.

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  1. jkk114l

    jkk114l Member

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    Can anyone help with this problem before I go mad!
    I've got a 1.8 freelander 1 , it's always had a low biting point on the clutch but last week the hydraulics went, so I changed the master/slave all in one unit and even though I had a pedal still couldn't get in any gear with the engine running and when I put it in gear then started the clutch dragged, so after looking around this forum I changed the slave bracket, but still no clutch. The release lever is free as already oiled it up. Had anyone got any ideas before I bit the bullet ,pull the engine out and change the clutch?
     
  2. Alibro

    Alibro Well-Known Member Full Member

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    Did you take the plastic cap off the slave? It should be left on.
    Did you use OEM parts or cheapo ebay? Cheapo are known to cause this problem.
    I replaced the clutch in my 1.8 and afterwards had the same problem so I can't see how replacing the clutch will help. I ended up shimming the master as it was old and had a couple of mm slack whichwas enough to lower the pedal to the floor.
     
  3. jkk114l

    jkk114l Member

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    no didn't touch the cap as it's a sealed unit
    oem parts on both.
    when the clutch was working there was loads of bite on it so i don't think it's too worn and i would expect the pedal to be a the top of it's travel if it was worn
    the release lever does seem to be fully upright with a bit of slack, does that sound right?
    any and all help/photos appreciated
     
  4. Alibro

    Alibro Well-Known Member Full Member

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    The cap I was referring to is the one that holds the pin in while the unit is in transit. It has two tabs which hook on to hold it safely. I wasn't sure if you thought I was referring to something else.
    I think the lever sounds OK so long as it is well lubricated.
    Have you tried refitting the support bracket? If I recall the bolt holes are big enough to allow some adjustment.
     
  5. jkk114l

    jkk114l Member

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    Yes the white cap that has tabs that hold the slave in until fitted is on and I didn't unclip the tabs until fitted. And fitted support bracket whilst pushing it to the left,towards engine as per another thread.please keep asking questions as it's doing my nut in!
     
  6. Alibro

    Alibro Well-Known Member Full Member

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    Some have had the same issue and say putting a block on the clutch pedal to hold it in overnight will help any air that might be in the new master/slave rise to the top. Others have suggested hanging the master/slave up for a day or two before fitting with the master at the top.
    You 100% sure the bracket didn't move as the bolts were tightened?
    Hopefully someone else will have more suggestions
     
  7. Flying Scotsman!

    Flying Scotsman! Active Member

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    Right, lets look at this logically.
    The clutch is dragging with pedal pressed down.
    That can be caused by;
    1. Master not moving far enough and therefor enough fluid moving
    2. Slave not moving far enough
    Both the above can be caused by
    1. Lack of fluid,
    2. air in system or
    3. slave bracket in wrong position.
    So, I know its new but was there ANY sign of fluid loss? Any weeping around seals? You might have mistaken that for build process or storage coating?
    Ask yourself if the pedal gets better if you pump it?
    Another reason for dragging can be fluid on friction plate. If it gets contaminated the fluid can burn up amd become sticky. This is enough to drag the pressure plate.
    So did any clutch fluid end up inside the clutch housing?
    Have you maybe been REALLY unlucky and had the gearbox driveshaft seal go too? Or the crankshaft oil seal?

    Just trying to look at every possibilty here.
     
  8. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    also warped clutch cover
     
  9. Flying Scotsman!

    Flying Scotsman! Active Member

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    As Alibro says, can we be sure there was no air in system?
     
  10. Flying Scotsman!

    Flying Scotsman! Active Member

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    Yes james. Forgot that one.
    But as clutch worked BEFORE changing hydraulics I would put that further down the list for now.
    Hopefully!
     
  11. jkk114l

    jkk114l Member

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    thanks for all you advise, i'll check for fluid leak but pretty sure that's a no as is lack of movement and air in the system. i'll try and take photos/videos tomorrow and wait your advise
     
  12. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    The most likely cause of PG1 clutch release failure is the following.
    The release lever in the box has gone stiff. This then overloads the hydraulic system and damages the slave cylinder bracket. The bracket might look ok until it's inspected carefully. You'll see bending and cracking around slave cylinder mount. This allows lots of lost motion at the release lever, which is stiff. This stops the clutch releasing and was responsible for the initial hydraulic failure. So you'll need to free off the release lever bush in the box. Then either repair and strengthen the slave bracket or replace it completely.
     
  13. Flying Scotsman!

    Flying Scotsman! Active Member

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    Yeah.. what he said!
     
  14. jkk114l

    jkk114l Member

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    thanks nodge68, how do i release lever bush in the box? can it be done without removing the gearbox? the pivot arm is free does that indicate that the bush is already free? i've already replaced the master/slave and slave bracket and am getting stuck
     
  15. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    If the release lever is truly free. Then I'd be questioning what made the hydraulics fail in the first place? It is possible for the release lever to be free when moved in the unloaded stage of rotation, but bind when moving the clutch bearing. It is also possible that the release bearing it's self is binding on its slide.
    All you can do from the outside, is lubricate the bush with engine oil and make sure all lost motion is eliminated. So look at the pedal bush and master to pedal arrangements. Any free play or slackness there will affect the pedal hight. It's also well worth pushing the slave cylinder fully into it bore a few times. This should move any trapped air, towards the master's reservoir.
     
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  16. jkk114l

    jkk114l Member

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    Thanks for all the helpful information, in the end I bit the bullet (and opened the wallet) and dropped the car into a local garage. Just had it back and have other problems!!! The front nearside brakes are squealing like mad and the A/C whines when switched on, neither of these happened before. So before I have a polite word with the garage I just want to ask a couple of questions.
    The garage reported that the disc backing plates are corroded, but I guess that wouldn't cause the squeak/whine, so any ideas what might have been disturbed to cause the noise?
    Would the engine/gearbox been taken out as one unit to change the clutch, or would they have been split. The real question here is would the garage have needed to disturb any of the A/C system?
    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2017
  17. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    The garage shouldn't have touched the AC at all. But doing the clutch is a tricky operation, if they haven't done one before. The work carried out will only be as good as the mechanic doing it. Having worked in the automotive industry for many years, I can say that not all mechanics are the same. Some are very good and treat every vehicle as there own. Some are downright dreadful and shouldn't be allowed near anything with wheels.
    I don't know about the garage you used. But if it has problems now that it didn't have. Then take it back and get them to fix it for free.

    The brake backplates can and do corrode. It's no big deal to simply remove them and leave them off.

    The AC should be silent and shouldn't have been touched in a clutch change.
     
  18. Alibro

    Alibro Well-Known Member Full Member

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    I had a corroded disk backing plate fall apart completely and sit against the wheel causing a bad rattle and squeal. If yours is as bad as mine was then just reach under the car and pull it off. As for the AC, could they have kinked a pipe while working on the gearbox? If so the extra strain on the pump might cause it to be noisy.
     
  19. Flying Scotsman!

    Flying Scotsman! Active Member

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    Isn't missing backplates and MOT fail point? (He said searching darkest recesses of mind...)
     
  20. Alibro

    Alibro Well-Known Member Full Member

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    Not in my experience.
     
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