Hoping someone can help.I have a 59 plate freelander 2 with an intermittent electrical fault. Started a few weeks ago,I pulled up at home,turned off engine and removed key and locked car,ran in the house to grab something but when I came back out and tried to unlock nothing worked(as if battery was flat). Unlocked car with key blade but the was no sign of any power,as if battery wasn't connected. Popped the bonnet to check connections, all good, so I closed the bonnet at which point power came back and everything worked as normal. Has happened a couple of times since and both times opening and closing the bonnet sorts the problem. Any ideas or assistance greatly appreciated, thanks.
Freelancer 2 no electrics
- Thread starter Magic197
- Start date
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freelance
Well-Known Member
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- essex and beyond
Check battery connections again, remove, clean, replace and tighten, check where earths on bodywork, there was a mod to fit a second earth
Then start looking at fuse box connections, relays etc
Then start looking at fuse box connections, relays etc
Hippo
Lord Hippo
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The physical shock to the car may have made a bad connection move, giving a betterer electrical connection (lower resistance).
Do the hazard lights work when it next does this, using the internal switch?
No,when the fault arises it's literally as if there is no battery connected, everything dead to the point that last time it did it (I stopped,turned off engine and opened drivers door) I couldn't even undock the fob from the dash. I was wondering if there was any switch connected to bonnet catch (ie.for alarm) that could be connected with total loss of electrics?
Hippo
Lord Hippo
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There is a bonnet open switch which is used to tell it the bonnet is open. It will also be used as an input to the alarm monitoring.
The electrics are switched on in stages by relays. It's possible the contacts on one are failing. But this is a logical guess. It could be an electrical connection which swings from good to bad and back. It is not the bonnet switch making a difference when shutting the heavy bonnet with a slam. I'm thinking the shock through the car made a difference. Next time it happens switch on the hazards using the internal switch. They should work. If they don't this is a logical step to know if you have lost electrical power to some of the basic features. It is a method of process of elimination. When you say no in the post above its not's clear if this is the answer to the hazard switch question.
Ok, sorry for confusion,I hadn't tried hazard switch but I will next time fault occurs. Thanks for taking the time to reply though,much appreciated.
Rank Amatuer
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Have you tried fitting a different battery?
I have had the -ve post on a battery fail internally. ie, go “almost but not quite” open circuit. I could measure 12.7v across the battery, but it wouldn’t supply enough current to power a lamp. Admittedly this wasn’t an intermittent fault.
I have had the -ve post on a battery fail internally. ie, go “almost but not quite” open circuit. I could measure 12.7v across the battery, but it wouldn’t supply enough current to power a lamp. Admittedly this wasn’t an intermittent fault.
Maybe an option to look at but was keeping that as last resort as it's a glass battery and they aren't cheap from what I've seen.
Nodge68
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If it's got an AGM battery will say so is on the label. However I don't believe a 59 plate FL2 will have or need an AGM, as it's pre stop-start fitment. It should be a standard flooded lead acid 096 battery, which should be under £80 delivered.
