Freelander 1 Fob Not Connecting To Something?

Hi, it's been a while, but all sorts has been happening with me and only now is it the time to get my Freelanders back on the road!
However, I seem to be hitting the same problem with both. Main batterries were flat and have been replaced with fully charged reasonably new ones. The alarm (horn) went off after connecting each with the bonnet still open and doors unlocked. Central locking seems to have gone on both, but I can get in with the key, turn the ignition and get the dash to light up. The horn goes off if I lock the doors with the key.
If I do the five in succession presses of the button from outside, nothing happens, the red dash LED continues to flash steadily.
If I do the same with the key in the ignition I get three 'pips' from inside the car somewhere but I think that's when I get the quick flashing of the red LED.
Still no turning over.
I've changed the battery in the key fobs just to make sure too.
Any ideas what I've done?

Did you get any beeping from the car when you used the fob to unlock? That's usually the sign that the fob batteries are failing. When you changed the fob batteries were they brand new or ones that you'd had lying around for a while?

Do you know anyone with a decent code reader that might shed some light on what the car thinks is going wrong?

When I changed the batteries in my fobs, 1 worked OK. The other refused to work, when I opened it up to swap the batteries over to see if that was the problem, I found that the clip holding the battery in had broken. I don't know how common that is or whether it could happen to both of yours.

I am once again getting a warning that the battery is low in the working fob - the 'pips' that you mention - I'm sure they don't stop at 3 though. Interestingly, when the pips are 'activated', just pressing the fob again doesn't appear to want to stop them - but putting the key in the ignition and pressing the fob does stop them. Sort of the reverse of what you have!

Thanks for the replies. I do have the Bearmach code reader but didn't have it with me this afternoon. Will dig it out for tomorrow evening to see what it says.
My first thought was the battery in the remote, so I changed the batteries. Took out Duracells and replaced with new generic but matching ones. Didn't seem to have any effect. No beeping when I hit the buttons to unlock.
The black car (2000 1.8) didn't turn over at all (dash lights all on, radio working), but the green one (1999 1.8) did, just no spark there. Didn't try to fire up or even run for a couple of seconds, turned over but no spark once I managed to rope in my 9yr old to turn the ignition!
The only common factor that i could think of was that they've both had flat as vehicle batteries for a few months and I couldn't remember if there was a 'starting from fresh' procedure that I had to go through.

If they turn over they are not imobilised - the problem has got nothing to do with fobs.

OK, that's interesting. One's turning over, the other isn't even though everything lights up and I can listen to the radio whilst I ponder my next move...

Right, I managed back to the black (2000) car yesterday. Thought I'd try the remote as I walked up to it and lo-and-behold the central locking triggered!
Dash LED stopped flashing, so with baited breath I turned the ignition and it started first turn
No idea what I've done, but suspect it might be something to do with the fob battery or power pick up from the battery and taking the cell in and out, possibly even the heat of having it in my pocket all day after months of sitting in a wardrobe. Anyway, no brand name batteries to be had close-by on a Sunday evening, so I've got two shiny new Duracells on their way to me!
Just before I thought things were all going to plan though, put my foot on the clutch pedal and got a ping followed in quick succession by the pedal going limp. Talk about one step forward...
I sprayed 3 in 1 all around the operating lever at the gearbox, then today managed down the scrappy and got hold of two clutch hydraulic systems. No point in chancing a brand new one until I'm sure the clutch mechanism is operating freely.

Think I'll concentrate on getting this one up and on the road, before looking further at the green one!

Thanks for the replies above, wish I could be more conclusive as to how it fixed itself!

GrumpyGel said:

If they turn over they are not imobilised - the problem has got nothing to do with fobs.

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My v6 turned over when I upset the immobiliser because the rolling code wasn't sync'd between the engine computer and immobiliser. Hawkeye said it were still immobilised at the time. Are the other FL1 engine computers/immobilisers different I wonder?

Hippo said:

My v6 turned over when I upset the immobiliser because the rolling code wasn't sync'd between the engine computer and immobiliser. Hawkeye said it were still immobilised at the time. Are the other FL1 engine computers/immobilisers different I wonder?

Click to expand...

Strange. I said that because I've looked at the wiring on the 1.8 previously and the starter is enabled/disabled by the CCU - it provides the earth for the starter relay which does not cuts if the motor should be disabled (ie immobilised). You are right though in that the ECM controls whether it fires up if the engine is turning, so if that got its knickers in a twist it might not do the necessary!

It's gone again! Can't get any response to the remote. No locking trying to open or close, everything powered up when I turn on the ignition, but then the clock and stereo go off when I try to start it. Dash lights don't dim or flicker, so I'm assuming the car battery is fine. Alarm sounds if I open the bonnet, stops if I lock the driver's door with the key. I can open the car with the key, indicators all flash, no alarm siren when I enter the car. Dash LED flashes lots then settles into a regular flash. I have heard the three beep low fob battery warning a couple of times. I've fitted new a Duracell battery to the fob and done the 5 clicks in quick succession trick, but still nothing. Swapped in another pound shop job for exactly the same effect. Tried a second Duracell to no avail...
Could this be a central locking issue? I notice the passenger front door won't open even from the inside with the handle, wondering if no signal that the doors are opened means immobiliser stays shut...