FL2 Starting problems - glow plugs?

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Hello I was hoping someone can help me out with a FL2 starting problem.

I've own a 07 plate FL2 2.2d Manual for 10months and love it. This is my first posting on this site.

However I've had starting problems a few times over the winter period, both times on really cold days.

First time in Novemeber (some -deg temp) , the engine was cranking but not starting. I left it an hour and then tried again (a little warmer) and it started but missfired a little for a few seconds then ran normally.

The last was boxing day and it measured -13 so very cold, again it was craking, but not firing. I appreciate that this is freak weather, but it's annoying that a standard 10yrs old vauxaull diesel starts next to me on it's first turn.

I've notice that the colder it is the longer the delay before cranking. Which I understand is correct operation of the engine management system and glow plugs. Once it's started it's fine. On a normal cold day 0deg it starts after the time delay and runs fine. I am only aware of seeing the glow plug warning flash up once during starting in 10months.

The last time it didn't start was on boxing day, so I got the LR assistance people out. They managed to start it with a high power battery.
My battery passed the full test, but just lost some power through me trying to start it a number of times. The car was previously used on Christmas eve for 2hr journey, and then unsed on Xmas day. They put the problem down to glow plugs.

It went in to the local LR dealer this week, they kept it overnight and did tests, however they said it was fine, no problems with battery or no system errors. I was told by the service guy 'we see this on a few Freelanders, and our recommendation is to press the start button without the clutch being depressed. The engine management should start, and the glow plugs heat up (with the glow plug light illuminated), when the light goes out start the engine normally'.

I'm not sure if I'm being fobbed off, or is this a genuine solution to starting problems on FL2?

The FL manual mentions nothing about this proceedure, or pre heating of glow plugs. I understand under normal starting (with clutch depressed) the delay is the time the for the glow plugs to heat up. So my view is that it's a fault because it's not starting as designed.

I'm not that confident about this solution, especially that it goes out of warranty in March and propably won't have severe cold weather until next winter.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
As long as some of the glow plugs work then the rig-ma-rol of turnng the ignition on, then off then on and starting does give the remaining glow plugs a chance.
But lets be honest, you should put the fob in and press the start button, the car should/should not operate the glow plugs depending on temperature and then it should start the engine. It should operate the glow plugs for a time dependant on temperature.
Anything else is a bodge.
That is how mine works and has always worked, even down to minus 12.

The system is not intelligent enough to monitor the current in each glow plug, so it is likely that one or more have failed - there are many complaints on the Freel2 site of failed glow plugs.
By the time you have stripped the terminals off each glow plug to test each one individually you have done 80% of the work associated with replacing them.

Take it back, ask them which page in the manual describes thier new startup procedure, and then politely ask them to fix the **** thing.

Exert from manual page 8
Note: Diesel vehicles may experience a delay
between pressing the start button, and the
engine starting when operating in cold
conditions. This is due to the extra time
required for the glow plugs to reach operating
temperatures. During this delay period the
clutch pedal (manual transmission) or brake
pedal (automatic transmission) must remain depressed
 
but what they suggest is best on cold days , it means you are heating for longer before trying to crank too soon, go for it, i do it all the time with mine.
 
It's was -7 on Saturday. Tried the new startup tip pressing start with the break pressed & no engine. Could see the glow plug light on for about 3secs, then go off. Then started engine with normal clutch down and it started first time. So it looks like that works fine.

I did speak to the garage again. They could look at the glowplugs but it's a couple of hours work because of the stripping down (inlet manafold etc) , and would be chargable if no fault is found. Asked about software upgrade, they said that's chargable and not covered on the warranty. Not very helpful Guy Salmon Knutsford. They said there was no way of checking glow plugs without striping down to get access to them.
 
Software upgrade - surely this should be done when serviced?

Got to agree that testing wil involve a strip down and 2 hours seems about right. If it was me and still under warranty I would start it the old way, call out LR assist EVERY time, and insist it was taken to Guy Salmon Stockport.

Two things, the new startup procedure is masking a fault - I have NEVER resorted to the stupid Turn it on - turn it off - Turn it on again routine, and have never had an issue. Masking the fault is just wasting the warranty, when another glow plug fails you will have to have it sorted - probably at your cost as the warranty may have expired.

Secondly, Dealers - even within the same group can be vastly different, have not had any dealings with Guy Salmon Knutsford, but have had lots :eek: of dealings with the guys in Stockport, and have no complaints, always fixed the faults (sometimes takes a while - but worth the wait).
 
Mines the same as soon as I touch the button it tries to start the car not giving the glowplugs chance to warm up my glow plug light is only on a second mine really struggles.
 
Mines the same as soon as I touch the button it tries to start the car not giving the glowplugs chance to warm up my glow plug light is only on a second mine really struggles.
Glow plugs on the PSA DW12 last no time at all, maybe 3 to 5 years, if you're lucky.

They're reasonably easy to change, once the inlet manifold is off.
 
How do you get the manifold off

Basically remove everything that's holding it in place, like the fuel filter carrier, the EGR pipe, boost pipes, fuel lines and vacuum pipes. It's a couple hours work to remove and refit the inlet manifold.
 
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