Freelander 2 (LR2) FL2 Inlet manifold swap - how long?

Ive picked up a replacement manifold for the FL2. Non-swirl version, both as a safeguard, and in ever more drastic steps to get to the bottom of the intermittent limp issue.

Im more of a 300tdi person, and dont really like plastic cars at all, but needs must -

How long is it likely to take me, a reluctant mechanic, to swap over the manifold? Im not expecting 300tdi ease, but will it be one of those jobs where you end up having to take out the rear light cluster to get to some bolt to remove some other part to remove another bolt, to.... Or is it a bit more sensible?

Thank you.

Takes me about 1 hour max 2 and I've only done a few, not an extensive job to be fair.

PRO said:

Takes me about 1 hour max 2 and I've only done a few, not an extensive job to be fair.

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Thank you, thats what i wanted to hear. A leisurely afternoon is fine, so long as its not wading through stacks of youtube videos trying to work out why nothing is moving again.

Can i ask if there is any specific tools that im going to need? I mean beyond a set of sockets and extensions?

My replacement manifold has a load of torx security screws in it (the ones with the centre pin) which i have a set of L shaped normal Allan keys for, but my suspicion is that ill probably need some of them that will go on the end of ratchet extensions, right? Any other deliberately awkward stuff?

(you can see my love of the car coming through here!)

julianf said:

How long is it likely to take me, a reluctant mechanic, to swap over the manifold?

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Not long, an hour or two. It's a bit of a fiddle, as some of the bolts are hidden, and you need to move the PS pump IIRC.
Make sure you have the new seals, as they're often distorted on assembly. Also use silicone grease as an assembly lubricant for the seals, which helps them slip in without distortion.
I put my engine back together last November, but it's amazing how quickly I forget all the operations needed.

It's unlikely to cure the limp mode thing though, as only one set of ports close off, so the engine can still breathe perfectly well.

Random limp mode is often related turbo vanes or actuator issues.

I would agree with the above but always allow your self that extra hour for stubborn bolt, and or those hidden ones, a leisurely Sunday morning is most likely best 3hrs, one of the jobs you will, need to do is to remove the fuel filter.
1
So make sure you have a good genuine one to replace it with, you will then also upon re-fitting it have to prime it after fitting.
2

Get some new seals also posted about above.
3

Fuel injector lines to remove also, take care doing these.
4

5

6
Good luck

Arctic2 said:

I would agree with the above but always allow your self that extra hour for stubborn bolt, and or those hidden ones, a leisurely Sunday morning is most likely best 3hrs, one of the jobs you will, need to do is to remove the fuel filter.

1
So make sure you have a good genuine one to replace it with, you will then also upon re-fitting it have to prime it after fitting.

2

Get some new seals also posted about above.

3

Fuel injector lines to remove also, take care doing these.

4

5

6
Good luck

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Thank you very much.

Those seals - they look like they were a kit? You dont happen to have the part number to hand, do you?


re: filter -

Its only recently been changed. I'm thinking i could just lift it out, still full of fuel, and then stick it back in again at the end of the job, and not worry too much about the air. Do you think that would work ok?

I mean, sure, id normally change it, but its been on there about a month.

You may not get away easy by taking out fuel filled and back as there is a small chance for air to go into pump and then it will spin with no diesel and won't start.
Better to bleed it and get rid of any bubbles.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295082952471

I don't remember touching the power steering pump.

Indeed first time takes longer as two of them screws are well hidden below. Once you learn them or take it once next time will take half time.
I would have a go on glow plugs as they will be exposed in this process well worth the inexpensive replacement.

Also be very careful with the return pipes from injectors you can get away with not removing the whole thing, they tend to get bridle and break off like with any Fords

julianf said:

Thank you very much.

Those seals - they look like they were a kit? You dont happen to have the part number to hand, do you?


re: filter -

Its only recently been changed. I'm thinking i could just lift it out, still full of fuel, and then stick it back in again at the end of the job, and not worry too much about the air. Do you think that would work ok?

I mean, sure, id normally change it, but its been on there about a month.

Click to expand...

You will still need to purge the fuel system, so you can use the fuel filter, as it's almost new, just drain it using the drain under the fuel filter, and then purge/prime it, link below for the seals, but the one above it just as good.
LR005364 | Gasket Kit - Inlet Manifold - 2.2D | DsS - Frl2 - Evoq - Land Rover Part LR005364 (lrdirect.com)

julianf said:

re: filter -

Its only recently been changed. I'm thinking i could just lift it out, still full of fuel, and then stick it back in again at the end of the job, and not worry too much about the air. Do you think that would work ok?

Click to expand...

You can reuse the fuel filter if it's an OE item, keep it upright to retain the fuel. Keeping the fuel in the filter will reduce the need for bleeding, but be prepared for the engine to be difficult to start, and maybe stall a few times while fresh fuel is being pulled from the tank.
Personally I bleed the fuel system with the hand pump whenever a fuel supply line is disconnected.

If it's not a OE filter (has Purflex on the top), then I'd replace it with an OE as aftermarket filters have a reputation for trouble. In this case the fuel system will need bleeding with the hand pump.

PRO said:

I don't remember touching the power steering pump

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I seem to remember needing to undo the upper bolt for the ancillary cradle, but thinking about it, that was to remove the head.

For fuel filters I've found Bosch ones to be better as they have fill caps on top you remove bracket, prime it, put bracket back.
Cheapos is more mess. OEM best.

The torx screws you refer to actually have 5 lobes, it threw me at first when I did a manifold swap.
I did buy a set of bits, but the screws could be got out by using mole grips as they have quite large heads to get hold of.