FL2-3.2 turns over but does not start, then a few minutes later it does

New to me 2008 FL-2 3.2 Petrol JDM 156,000km - debugging

So today, pleasant sunny day - 10-12° (C), the FL2 started it up, drove 6 km into the village (40 km/h). I came out 5 minutes later, the engine would crank but not start. As a pushbutton, it turns over a few seconds and then stops. Tried about 10 times. Cranking sounded normal, no struggling battery. Then started pushing various buttons, turning off radio, flipping terrain controls on and off. No joy. Locked the car while sitting inside and reopened. Nothing. Tried again, nothing. Elapsed time about 10 minutes or so, then once more, nothing and again - it fires up like nothing has happened. Drives home fine, started two hours later when I put the OBD on to get readings.

This is the second time, but the first a few days ago, was just a few tries and I wasn't sure it actually was a problem. Now I know it is.

Error Codes

P061A-62 Intermittent = Torque performance of internal control modules. This code is not listed (or I cannot find it) on the FL-2 Error Code list - when I cleared it, it did not come back after starting the engine (but no driving)

U3000-87 Intermittent Control module - LR Manual states:
Control module Missing message Check CJB for DTCs and refer to DTC Index.
For additional information, refer to: Communications Network (418-00 Module Communications Network, Diagnosis and Testing).
Check information and entertainment module for Car Configuration File and MOST network DTCs and refer to relevant DTC Index. Carry out MOST/CAN network tests using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system - when I cleared it, it did not come back after starting the engine (but no driving)

U2101-00 Intermittent - Control module configuration incompatible -
Control Module Configuration Incompatible - No sub type information
Car Configuration File (CCF) information incompatible to Adaptive Front Lighting System (AFS) Control Module
Check the correct Adaptive Front Lighting System (AFS) Control Module is installed to vehicle specification. Refit original or replace the module as required. Refer to the new module/component installation note at the top of the DTC Index

The most significant hint was the reader showing the battery at 12.3 v with the ignition on and the engine off. This is below recommended spec, and like the Jag X350 I recently sold, I know these cars are battery sensitive. But why would it go on strike when warmed up, and then start up after 12-15 tries which generally depletes voltage?

I've done the usual Google searches, but can't find a similar set of symptoms.

If anyone has any thoughts (other than buy a new battery, which I will do tomorrow), I would appreciate it.

Maybe look at the crank sensor, and or it's wiring, also the cam sensor, does this only occur when the engine is hot or after a run, or does it do it from cold start.

Arctic2 said:

Maybe look at the crank sensor, and or it's wiring, also the cam sensor, does this only occur when the engine is hot or after a run, or does it do it from cold start.

Click to expand...

Warm. The car had been sitting for a few days. I decided to take it into the village, about 6 km away, 40 km/h, so enough to warm it up. Then it sat for 5-10 minutes while I did some food shopping.

These vehicles are very power hungry, so having a perfect battery is the first step to reliability. If the standing battery voltage is 12.3V, then it's below specification, and should be replaced with a suitable replacement.

As above, a failing cam sensor can prevent starting when hotter than cold.

+1 for a failing cam sensor causing starting issues, especially when the engine is warm

Thanks for that. Doing some searches to figure out where the sensor is, I found your (Nodge68) comment:

Are you sure the diagnostic said camshaft sensor, and not crankshaft sensor?
The crankshaft position sensor fails often, the camshaft sensor only fails if its been fitted incorrectly.
I'd replace the crank position sensor, and also make sure the camshaft sensor has been installed as per LR instructions.
I keep a spare crank sensor in my FL2, under the boot floor, along with a 10mm spanner to fit it.

And J_D's comment

The crank sensor and or its plug are known weak points on these, probably because the poor thing gets sprayed by water thrown from the front wheel, because LR didn't extend the arch liner to below the bottom of the engine.

When I had the steering rack removed, the mechanic said it looked like a prior owner had driven the car in beach sand, with salt water corrosion. Nothing rotted yet, but he had to take a two-metre bar to break free the frozen bolts. His advice was to sell the car, but I paid NZ $3,800 (£1,700) for it, the body is perfect and in the colour I wanted (Tonga Green), so once I have debugged the mechanical gremlins, I was looking at a $3,400 (£1,500) total underbody blast, and marine paint that deals with beach drives (https://autoblast.co.nz/services/underbody-rust/).

But I first need to make sure the car will be reliable.

First thing I did was download the repair manual, convert it to Word add page numbers and add a table of contents (unfortunately, the images are wonky, so I'm reluctant to upload it). Here is what it says

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It would be helpful to find photographs showing location, but I will take some and upload when done.

A few questions:

1) What is a reliable yet affordable brand of parts? Prefer ones that ship internationally. Part numbers?
2) Will it fail, but not throw off a fault code?
3) What fault codes are typical?
4) Alternative could be a wire to the sensor. What should I look for

And finally, is there a list of every sensor in the LR2? I have a petrol engine. It would be a good list to have along with a comment of sensors that last forever and those that die.