FL1 td4 front D bushes

gary brion · Jan 24, 2019

Hi Folks...
I have to get the front D bushes replaced on the Freelander
anyone knows a way around this task without removing the subframe?
also, I have a leak on the HP pump when the car is cold and goes once warmed up
what can I expect will it need changing and is it a hard job?

Nodge68 · Jan 25, 2019

gary brion said:
I have to get the front D bushes replaced on the Freelander

What are you calling D bushes? Do are mean ARB bushes?

gary brion said:
anyone knows a way around this task without removing the subframe?

No need to drop the subframe, for any front suspension bush, as long as the bolts come out ok.

gary brion said:
I have a leak on the HP pump when the car is cold and goes once warmed up
what can I expect will it need changing and is it a hard job?

You're going to need a HP pump seals kit, a reconditioned pump, or a new pump, depending on your budget and condition of the current pump.

Is it hard to do? That question is difficult to determine, as it's dependent on your skill and tolls availability. Replacing a HP pump is under a 2 hour job for me, but a have the necessary special tools and have done the job lots of times.
I'd say no, it's not difficult to change the pump, but rebuilding a leaking one is a fiddle without a 100% success rate.

gary brion · Jan 25, 2019

Yes the D bushes are D in shape and hold the ARB in place.

gary brion · Jan 25, 2019

Nodge68 said:
What are you calling D bushes? Do are mean ARB bushes?

No need to drop the subframe, for any front suspension bush, as long as the bolts come out ok.

You're going to need a HP pump seals kit, a reconditioned pump, or a new pump, depending on your budget and condition of the current pump.

Is it hard to do? That question is difficult to determine, as it's dependent on your skill and tolls availability. Replacing a HP pump is under a 2 hour job for me, but a have the necessary special tools and have done the job lots of times.
I'd say no, it's not difficult to change the pump, but rebuilding a leaking one is a fiddle without a 100% success rate.

Fine Thaks for that,I can source a second hand one in that case, do have a good collection of tools, could just do with a quick
run down? Like will the rad need to come out ect,Thanks for your help

Nodge68 · Jan 25, 2019

gary brion said:
Yes the D bushes are D in shape and hold the ARB in place.

Ok. Make sure you use a quality 6 sided socket on the bolts, as the are made of cheese. And it's sensible to use penetrating fluid on them for a week or so before you plan on releasing them.

gary brion said:
Fine Thaks for that,I can source a second hand one in that case, do have a good collection of tools, could just do with a quick
run down? Like will the rad need to come out ect,Thanks for your help

You'll need the M47 fuel pump sprocket retainer tool, before starting the job. This screws into pump drive sprocket, through the timing chain housing. It's job is to hold the pump sprocket while the pump is removed. You can't do the job without this special tool, as the sprocket will fall into the sump, which then makes it an engine out job.

You'll need to remove the inlet manifold (might as well clean it while it's off), the starter (It's sensible to fit a new solenoid contactor set while it's off), the RH engine mount (support the engine from under the sump) and move the PS fluid reservoir aside. You'll also need to remove the blanking plug (16mm hex IIRC) in the timing case, so you can unbolt the pump sprocket nut and get the sprocket retainer tool in place.

gary brion · Jan 25, 2019

Nodge68 said:
Ok. Make sure you use a quality 6 sided socket on the bolts, as the are made of cheese. And it's sensible to use penetrating fluid on them for a week or so before you plan on releasing them.

You'll need the M47 fuel pump sprocket retainer tool, before starting the job. This screws into pump drive sprocket, through the timing chain housing. It's job is to hold the pump sprocket while the pump is removed. You can't do the job without this special tool, as the sprocket will fall into the sump, which then makes it an engine out job.

You'll need to remove the inlet manifold (might as well clean it while it's off), the starter (It's sensible to fit a new solenoid contactor set while it's off), the RH engine mount (support the engine from under the sump) and move the PS fluid reservoir aside. You'll also need to remove the blanking plug (16mm hex IIRC) in the timing case, so you can unbolt the pump sprocket nut and get the sprocket retainer tool in place.

Thanks nodge very much appreciated, I think the pump will be a job for the spring, have to put up with the drip when cold
till then, but the bushes can be done this weekend I have been spraying them for the last week or so, Just come in from the top
do I? double extension bar I thought might reach down there.

Nodge68 · Jan 25, 2019

gary brion said:
think the pump will be a job for the spring, have to put up with the drip when cold

Mine has been dripping when cold since September. I've just not got round to sorting it yet.

Nodge68 · Jan 25, 2019

gary brion said:
double extension bar I thought might reach down there

It is possible, but I do them from underneath.

FL1 td4 front D bushes

gary brion

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Nodge68

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gary brion

Active Member

gary brion

Active Member

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

gary brion

Active Member

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

Nodge68

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