FL1 intermittent acceleration problem

The MAF measures air flow that is being sucked into the turbo - so it will be that electrical connector just by the air box/filter output.

GrumpyGel said:

The MAF measures air flow that is being sucked into the turbo - so it will be that electrical connector just by the air box/filter output.

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Would that be the part I have marked with three dots, so that connector would need unplugging
1

Ok many thanks, sorry for being a bit thick, in my picture is it the one that looks like it's near to the jack ?
To test it do I unplug it and see if she drives better ?

So sorry only viewing on my mobile, didn't see the dots !
Thanks for all your help.

TBH Stuart, the original suggestion of unplugging the MAF was relating to a TD4 engine. That engine uses a smoke map based on MAF input and will revert to a default map if it is disconnected. I'm pretty sure the L Series does not use it for that, I think its just for EGR control - therefore it will not be controlling fuel.

Looks like I'll have to visit Pedro and his magic hammer !
Thanks again for everyone's help.

Phew what a relief it's Pedro's day off ! Ran a full diagnostic check and no faults found !
With bonnet up and ignition on they heard a ticking/whirring sound and think it's the mechanical air intake device ?

Stuart hall said:

Phew what a relief it's Pedro's day off ! Ran a full diagnostic check and no faults found !
With bonnet up and ignition on they heard a ticking/whirring sound and think it's the mechanical air intake device ?

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No mechanical air intake device on an L series FL1. The fuel pump will buzz, if the ignition is on but the engine is off. The heater blower motor can also make a noise, but that's more noticeable inside the car.

Thanks for your reply, yes I got over excited when I was told no faults found.
The mechanic lifted the bonnet and said can I hear that noise and pointed to what even I know is the fuel pump !
I said thats the fuel pump and he replied no thats in the rear !
I tried to look up mechanical air pump and of course can't find anything listed !
The garage owner is on holiday in Grumpygels land till march so was told to wait till then !
I'm now back to square one, car's not right and can't find a garage that knows what their talking about.
IF I believe the diagnostic test and there's no faults what else could it be ?
It's quite dangerous to drive as will suddenly loose power when overtaking etc.
I'm prepared to get my hands dirty and have basic knowledge ( repaired head gasket on a mk 2 granny diesel once it ran but had a load of mysterious nuts and bolts left over ! )
Any ideas on what else to look for ?
Thanks again. Stu.

Stuart hall said:

The garage owner is on holiday in Grumpygels land till march so was told to wait till then !

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Good on him

I haven't really got any idea what's going on here.

You could try changing the fuel filter - the bumpy road could have cause some muck to be dislodged that is now blocking the filter? I don't know if the L Series ECU monitors low pressure fuel, if it doesn't it wouldn't throw a code if the filter was blocked. You could also check the fuel lines for any damage that might be sucking in air - any damage after the pump would spit fuel out - I would have thought you would have seen/smelt this - it would need to be before the pump - and presumably near the pump or it would take time to get to the cylinders.

Maybe the MAP sensor is dodgy and is giving a fluctuating reading - if it went low the ECU would lower the amount of fuel injected. If you had a diagnostic reader in the car - live data would show this.

I can't help but think though that this has something to do with the electronics in the pump - either a faulty connection or component failure. You should not go by this though because I know very little about these things.

If there is a Bosch diesel outfit near you they might be able to help. The pump, and ECU I believe, are Bosch units.

I did drain the fuel filter into kitchen paper and there was no sign of any crud.
Might try a good fuel injector cleaner that you add to the tank but they worry me as might dislodge more crud and block the injectors !
As said have no faith in local garage, in fact I feel cheated by him spinning me such a yarn.
Luckily as you saw only cost me 32€ but may be a complete waste of time if he doesn't even know what a fuel pump is, does he know how to plug in the tester!
Think my best bet is to try and find a half decent garage who know what their doing.
Will go for a drive around today and see what I can find.
Yes I feel it's electrical especially as the battery became disconnected. Did wiggle all relays, fuses and connections I could see, is the turbo controlled by a fuse or power ?
Come to think of it can't hear the turbo kick in, perhaps it's stopped working and when I accelerate it over fuels ?
Who knows, could be anything, oh for a decent mechanic lol.

Deep joy, it has been in the garage today and they drove it about for ages and couldn't get it to do it, said it ran like a dream! Surprised as it's doing it every trip I do now?? Only thing their laptop said was 'boost pressure' even though it wasn't doing the fault, which they said was unhelpful as could be a whole host of things. They didn't want to start charging me for renewing things until they'd narrowed it down. He's a good bloke Booked it back in for a week beginning March so they can run it over a week. Meantime I think I'll try getting that MAF sensor unplugged at the weekend as Arctic2 suggested and see if that gives me a bit more info to go on. On a happy note it passed it's MOT

Sounds like you've got it sorted K9, I've treated mine to a pair of tyres today, well ordered them for thursday. At 180€ for a pair I hope their coated in gold !
Also just realised I haven't a clue where the locking wheel nut duberry is !
Guess they'll have to chisel em off if I cant find it.
Put diesel injector cleaner in the tank and have found as long as I keep the revs below 3k it seems to not play up.
Time will tell.

the locking wheel nut "key" will be in with the jack or should be if not you can get sockets that you can take the locked nut off.

Thanks Teddywood will look around tomorrow. I've found the black plastic holder ( empty of course ) so not hopeful.
The jack bag is still in situ so you never know !
The tyres are really bald so need changing, strangely they passed the ITV test ( like our mot ) but I've seen more tread on a table top !
For some strange reason plod seem totally uninterested in tyres here, perhaps as it hardly ever rains so slicks give more grip lol.
BTW only fwd now.

Stuart hall said:

Thanks Teddywood will look around tomorrow. I've found the black plastic holder ( empty of course ) so not hopeful.
The jack bag is still in situ so you never know !
The tyres are really bald so need changing, strangely they passed the ITV test ( like our mot ) but I've seen more tread on a table top !
For some strange reason plod seem totally uninterested in tyres here, perhaps as it hardly ever rains so slicks give more grip lol.
BTW only fwd now.

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I hope your new tyres are identical to those on the other end? The FL1 MUST have 4 identical tyres or the transmission self destructs.

Ignore this if you're running FWD.

Yes only FWD now, the whole lot's been removed !
Must say although the car was free it is without doubt the worst vehicle I've ever driven lol.
My 1973 Buick went round corners better, she feels like at any time I'll end up in a ditch if I dare to corner at over 30 mph.
It's crap on fuel, doesn't do much more to the gallon than my 5.7 v8 petrol luckily diesel here is about 90p a litre and garage hours are only £30 per hour, without this I'd be broke.
BUT yes I do love her ( can't think why )
And will try my best to keep her on the road.
I don't want to use bad language on here but my crv was a far superior vehicle !

Its obviously been poorly maintainted then - and may explain the problems you have with it.

My L Series does 40 mpg and feels reasonably sure footed around the twisty bits.

Definitely check the wiring to your pump - some people fit an EVRY mod which frigs the pump into injecting more fuel than normal. Its basically a hack into the wiring and fitting of a resistor (or something) - could quite easily be a bodged job.

Thanks Stuart yes nice to get the MOT sorted but the losing power problem goes on! I will post on here if I have any further luck with it, especially disconnecting that MAF sensor. Frustrating I couldn't even undo the little nuts to get the engine cover off last time they were so tight! I'd even bought an extension kit for my little girlie socket set I had an MOT advisory for 2 back tyres. Quoted £155 for 2 fitted & balanced, budget ones if you want to compare. My TD4 (now 2wd) holds the road well and is pretty good on fuel.