Fl1 1.8 hgf
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Dougden
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They don't seem to be fixing developing issues with the FL2 so I would think it unlikely they bothered with the FL1 HGF which has occurred across the whole fleet of 1.8 petrol engines from Rover. Better off buying the TD4.
WLJayne
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Unless you can do your own head gasket swaps and chase down the underlying cause of the problem then I'd stay away from the 1.8. However, you can get a top of the range facelifted SE for thousands less than an identical TD4. It's what I did and I've had my fair share of drama but it cost me very little to buy and maintain.
After 2001, the PRT, uprated oil rail and metal dowels were fitted as standard I believe. Thi helped but they were still fitted with the Rover gasket that is made from recycled chocolate easter bunnies. So they will fail at the slightest provocation - which is usually a knackered water pump or a leak in the cooling system somewhere.
The best thing to do with a 1.8 (if you can do it yourself) is to do a preventative overhaul when you buy it. New water pump, uprated MLS gasket, new head bolts, coolant level sensor mod and a timing belt for good measure. Then check the coolant level once a week at least and make sure you have hot air through the blowers often - even in summer - as a heater matrix airlock is the first sign of trouble in most cases.
If you think you can do this then I'd say save yourself a few quid and get the 1.8 - but you have to understand that the HG is pretty much a service item now. New engines are cheap at £250 odd and a day's work to fit.
So if you're up to it, go for it
. I'm reasonably happy with mine but it was utterly fooked when I got it and I think it'll need a new lump one day.
After 2001, the PRT, uprated oil rail and metal dowels were fitted as standard I believe. Thi helped but they were still fitted with the Rover gasket that is made from recycled chocolate easter bunnies. So they will fail at the slightest provocation - which is usually a knackered water pump or a leak in the cooling system somewhere.
The best thing to do with a 1.8 (if you can do it yourself) is to do a preventative overhaul when you buy it. New water pump, uprated MLS gasket, new head bolts, coolant level sensor mod and a timing belt for good measure. Then check the coolant level once a week at least and make sure you have hot air through the blowers often - even in summer - as a heater matrix airlock is the first sign of trouble in most cases.
If you think you can do this then I'd say save yourself a few quid and get the 1.8 - but you have to understand that the HG is pretty much a service item now. New engines are cheap at £250 odd and a day's work to fit.
So if you're up to it, go for it
. I'm reasonably happy with mine but it was utterly fooked when I got it and I think it'll need a new lump one day.
Unless you can do your own head gasket swaps and chase down the underlying cause of the problem then I'd stay away from the 1.8. However, you can get a top of the range facelifted SE for thousands less than an identical TD4. It's what I did and I've had my fair share of drama but it cost me very little to buy and maintain.
After 2001, the PRT, uprated oil rail and metal dowels were fitted as standard I believe. Thi helped but they were still fitted with the Rover gasket that is made from recycled chocolate easter bunnies. So they will fail at the slightest provocation - which is usually a knackered water pump or a leak in the cooling system somewhere.
The best thing to do with a 1.8 (if you can do it yourself) is to do a preventative overhaul when you buy it. New water pump, uprated MLS gasket, new head bolts, coolant level sensor mod and a timing belt for good measure. Then check the coolant level once a week at least and make sure you have hot air through the blowers often - even in summer - as a heater matrix airlock is the first sign of trouble in most cases.
If you think you can do this then I'd say save yourself a few quid and get the 1.8 - but you have to understand that the HG is pretty much a service item now. New engines are cheap at £250 odd and a day's work to fit.
So if you're up to it, go for it
Will is talking sense
In the olden days head gaskets were changed every 30 to 50K miles anyway so I can't see the problem with changing them at regular intervals!
WLJayne
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Will is talking sense
In the olden days head gaskets were changed every 30 to 50K miles anyway so I can't see the problem with changing them at regular intervals!
Keeps yer on your toes about other problems that people who own more "reliable" hippo's miss, like belts, bushes and fluids. When TD4's do go wrong fook me they does it right.
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WLJayne
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why are peeps scared of the k-series
it's far superior to the td4 imho
Never driven one so I don't know, but I imagine that the TD4 has better cruising comfort from all that doozle torque. But it's eggspensive when it breaks.
1.8 is the ideal DIY owner's car
. Cheap to get a stonking one and fix it if it breaks. Which it will in many cases. I dumped some K seal in mine yesserday after I retorqued the head bolts as a last reort before I scrap the lump. I think it's a bit far gone, if I got a low mileage one from a R75 and did all the mods it'd probably be a sweet runner.Never driven one so I don't know, but I imagine that the TD4 has better cruising comfort from all that doozle torque. But it's eggspensive when it breaks.
1.8 is the ideal DIY owner's car
It'd wise to built an engine to swap yours with if yours is still loosing water. It's much harder to sort an engine that some monkey has bean ****ing with before you got it!
I concur
WLJayne
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May do that, at least I'll know how built it then.
Did you know that there is a heavy duty replacement kit that is available through X Part stockists. It was developed by SAIC to fix the problem once and for all. There new N series engine (K series with a new name) uses this this kit. The kit contains a new single layer HG, some new higher yeald head bolts and the new oil rail which must be used with the new bolt/HG combination. There are also new fitting instructions as the head bolts need a different torque sequence.
WLJayne
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I'll certainly look into that if I do a rebuild mate, sounds really good!
They work well as long as the block and head meets the specs in the technical bulletin.
http://www.wilmink.nl/wilmink/produkt/rover_18k_mls_koppakking.pdf
Like I said this kit is now fitted on the production line on the new N series engine.
WLJayne
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Too much for a 1.8. £3200 max I'd say, unless it has brand new tyres and a **** load of accessories on it or something. Mine is the same but with 122k on it, valued at around £2700.
To much as Will said. You can get a nice 1.8 face lift for under 3K
WLJayne
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There are alot of real **** artists out there who know they can charge a premium for the badge eh. Swings and roundabouts mate.
That is so true and so sad
what annoys me most is the price shooting up in autumn and falling again in spring, but I guess that's supply and demand for you?
WLJayne
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That is so true and so sad
Law of economics mate. Most won't last the winter with needing a fix. It's norra numpties car like the slitty tratters.
