Series 3 Fitting Parabolic Springs - guide

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mikerajjers

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,467
Location
Bedford UK or Trnava SK
I fitted parabolic springs and gas shocks all-round on my S3 109 FFR about 1 month ago so want to contribute with a short write up.

Quick points before we start:
1 - I have no mechanical background other that youtube, some manuals, selection of ordinary tools and common sense - if I could do it anybody can!!! Don't be afraid and don't bother paying somebody to do it as they won't care about your vehicle as much as you do!
2 - I fitted Rocky Mountain springs and gas shocks that came as a set with all the shackles, bolts, etc. For a 109 their website recommends 3 leaf for the rear, I have fitted 2 leaf and they are perfect when lightly loaded...unless you carry LOADS of weight I wouldn't bother with the 3 leaf as you will get greater problems with the rear prop shaft rubbing - see later.
3. tools required - standard Halfords tool set + jacks, copper grease, angle grinder (depending how rusted your bolts are), breaker bars, degreaser/cleaning stuff-a lot of it!

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Lift and support your Landy, I used axle stands beneath the chassis, remember you can't support the axles as you need to move these around a little.

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Remove the old springs, I recommend removing the U-bolts first, then find a way to support the axle so that it doesn't drop down when you remove the spring. Clean bits up and paint if you want to. To remove the springs, un-tighten and remove bolts at front and rear - you don't need to keep the old shackle as the kit comes with new ones. I used some penetrating oil, once a blow torch to heat one bolts, but wouldn't budge and had to cut it out with the angle grinder. All other bolts were ok and just required elbow grease.

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Fitting new springs is just the reverse process, fit the new parabolics, secure with shackles but don't tighten, just enough so that it won't fall apart. Then you can release the supports that were holding your axles and line up the hole in the axle with the protruison on the spring. You may need to compress or extend the springs a little to get them to line up...as you can see I used a bottle jack to help me. It is obvious what needs to be done when you get going.

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Once you've got it lines up you can fit and tighten the U bolts. There is one longer U-bolt needed for the diff side, other than that they are all the same. Above I'm just about to fit U bolts

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A cup of tea is vital...do not overlook this point!!! Does not have to be one with Pikachu!

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U bolts fitted. I also took the opportunity to clean up my VIN stamp and spray with primer so that I minimise corrosion.
 
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One of the rear springs was a bitch...had to cut it off. No amount of swearing would cause it to budge! Cover your fuel tank when you get grinding...just in case :)

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Cover up the bare metal with some paint and give the area a good clean as a lot of muck gets caught between the bolts and springs.

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The rear is otherwise much the same as the front...however, the rear springs needed compressing which I did with the trolley jack in order to get the axle/spring to line up correctly. The block of wood helps as otherwise the trolley jack wouldn't reach the spring. The red trolley jack was supporting the axle before I fitted the spring.

WARNING - the brake hoses are attached to the plate that goes between the axle and spring which I didn't realise. My old spring was corroded together with this plate and nearly ripped out the brake hoses. Be careful so that the old spring doesn't rip it off as you'd have to sort out the hoses.

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Wear old clothes as you will get properly covered in **** whilst fitting springs.

I also fitted new shocks, very simple and only a few bolts and split pins.

Whatever you do, before you get started please make sure your vehicle is securely supported, the last thing you want is it falling on your face!
 
This is the best cleaning and degreasing product I have ever used, its super easy to use and clean bits and pieces. Much much much better than parts cleaning fluids that I've used.

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Once you're done fitting the springs, don't tighten all the bolts before you get a chance to drive over some potholes. Load up the Landy and leave to sit for a few days and do some bumpy driving (not on roads) where you won't be a hazard.
 
Nice thread. Reminds me of when I did mine but swapped like for like leaf springs. A right filthy job. I did mine outdoors. Started in late March and didn't finish it until early May working on it at weekend's. My worst part was burning out the old bushes and having to hacksaw the metal part. The original holes were ovaled. I had to ream them to drift the new bushes in.
 
Great post, and much appreciated by a newbie - only had a Land Rover Series III FFR for two years, so I'm still learning!
Just wanted to ask how you got on with these springs - everything I've seen or read (other than this post) says they increase the height of the chassis by around 2", which is no good for me - I can barely climb in as it is!
Did using the two-leaf on the back instead of the three stop that happening?
Many thanks in advance.
 
I love your diy simple hand tools approach.
Fork lift, impact driver, two trolley jacks and 15t bottle jack, indoor commercial polished floor and lighting.

Can’t wait to have a go on my drive with a hammer, adjustable wrench and a screwdriver when it’s snowing. :(
 
I love your diy simple hand tools approach.
Fork lift, impact driver, two trolley jacks and 15t bottle jack, indoor commercial polished floor and lighting.

Can’t wait to have a go on my drive with a hammer, adjustable wrench and a screwdriver when it’s snowing. :(

Don't forget that you will need to wear your purple thermal socks because it will be chilly when you do it .
 
I love your diy simple hand tools approach.
Fork lift, impact driver, two trolley jacks and 15t bottle jack, indoor commercial polished floor and lighting.

All that does is make things quicker, you can achieve the same thing as all of those at home if your box of different hammers is large enough :D.
 
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One of the rear springs was a bitch...had to cut it off. No amount of swearing would cause it to budge! Cover your fuel tank when you get grinding...just in case :)

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Cover up the bare metal with some paint and give the area a good clean as a lot of muck gets caught between the bolts and springs.

View attachment 110592

The rear is otherwise much the same as the front...however, the rear springs needed compressing which I did with the trolley jack in order to get the axle/spring to line up correctly. The block of wood helps as otherwise the trolley jack wouldn't reach the spring. The red trolley jack was supporting the axle before I fitted the spring.

WARNING - the brake hoses are attached to the plate that goes between the axle and spring which I didn't realise. My old spring was corroded together with this plate and nearly ripped out the brake hoses. Be careful so that the old spring doesn't rip it off as you'd have to sort out the hoses.

View attachment 110593
Wear old clothes as you will get properly covered in **** whilst fitting springs.

I also fitted new shocks, very simple and only a few bolts and split pins.

Whatever you do, before you get started please make sure your vehicle is securely supported, the last thing you want is it falling on your face!
This is amazing, quick back story I just bought my series 3 Land Rover this weekend feb 2021 and I am absolutely not a mechanic I’m just an idiot who loved landys more than money . So I was underneath the 1971 AKA 50 year old rear Springs today after the worst pothole I have ever experienced in my 28 years of life! So I’m under the rear springs thinking this looks pretty simple. I’m happy to report I did notice the brake pipe so I’ll be extra careful when I do it too
 
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