Fitting new Radio/MP3 Player, help please?

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W

Wolverine

Guest
Hi all,
Managed to remove the original Philips Radio cassette, and removed the plugs
from the back which were two speaker plugs marked front left and front right
and a larger plug with a black wire, a white/red wire and a yellow.
According to the diagram on the radio unit:
Black - earth
White/red - +12v
Yellow - (picture of battery) 12v
Question is are these correct cos they look very thin? I know I need to get
an adaptor loom.
The Defender is a 1993 110 CSW
Cheers.
Wolverine.


 
On Sat, 28 May 2005 13:18:45 +0100
MVP <mr.nice@*nospam*softhome.net> wrote:

> On Sat, 28 May 2005 11:57:08 +0100, "Wolverine"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Hi all,
> >Managed to remove the original Philips Radio cassette, and removed
> >the plugs from the back which were two speaker plugs marked front
> >left and front right and a larger plug with a black wire, a
> >white/red wire and a yellow. According to the diagram on the radio
> >unit: Black - earth
> >White/red - +12v
> >Yellow - (picture of battery) 12v
> >Question is are these correct cos they look very thin? I know I need
> >to get an adaptor loom.
> >The Defender is a 1993 110 CSW
> >Cheers.
> >Wolverine.
> >

>
> looks right to me, and yea, they seemed thin to me too on all the
> vehicles I've messed with.
> the yellow is a permanant live by the way, for keeping your radio's
> memory settings for saved stations, clock, cd playlist, key code etc.


And IIRC, that one was the big one, while the non-permanent one is
indeed very thin. But so far, no fire ;-) so it must be alright.

Fred
 

"Fred Labrosse" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:20050530092701.4d9e7610@localhost...
> On Sat, 28 May 2005 13:18:45 +0100
> MVP <mr.nice@*nospam*softhome.net> wrote:
>
> > On Sat, 28 May 2005 11:57:08 +0100, "Wolverine"
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > >Hi all,
> > >Managed to remove the original Philips Radio cassette, and removed
> > >the plugs from the back which were two speaker plugs marked front
> > >left and front right and a larger plug with a black wire, a
> > >white/red wire and a yellow. According to the diagram on the radio
> > >unit: Black - earth
> > >White/red - +12v
> > >Yellow - (picture of battery) 12v
> > >Question is are these correct cos they look very thin? I know I need
> > >to get an adaptor loom.
> > >The Defender is a 1993 110 CSW
> > >Cheers.
> > >Wolverine.
> > >

> >
> > looks right to me, and yea, they seemed thin to me too on all the
> > vehicles I've messed with.
> > the yellow is a permanant live by the way, for keeping your radio's
> > memory settings for saved stations, clock, cd playlist, key code etc.

>
> And IIRC, that one was the big one, while the non-permanent one is
> indeed very thin. But so far, no fire ;-) so it must be alright.
>
> Fred


just in the process of putting a kenwood cd player into my series 3. there
used to be a radio or something that sits on top of the rear-view mirror.
but some goose had wired the old radio using speaker wire to supply the
power. very thin indeed, and unfused. so i've run some new 20 amp (player is
rated at 200w or something) wire straight from the battery (through a fuse
of course).

Sam.


 
Samuel wrote:

> just in the process of putting a kenwood cd player into my series 3. there
> used to be a radio or something that sits on top of the rear-view mirror.
> but some goose had wired the old radio using speaker wire to supply the
> power. very thin indeed, and unfused. so i've run some new 20 amp (player is
> rated at 200w or something) wire straight from the battery (through a fuse
> of course).


That will certainly do the job - my high-powerwed Kenwood CD player has
a 7.5A fuse in the main feed and a 2.5A in the switched feed and never
seems to run into problems. I'm guessing the 200W output is some
bizarre "peak output" measurement rather than a continuous RMS rating.


--
EMB
 
On Tue, 31 May 2005 08:22:47 +1200, EMB <[email protected]> wrote:

>Samuel wrote:
>
>> just in the process of putting a kenwood cd player into my series 3. there
>> used to be a radio or something that sits on top of the rear-view mirror.
>> but some goose had wired the old radio using speaker wire to supply the
>> power. very thin indeed, and unfused. so i've run some new 20 amp (player is
>> rated at 200w or something) wire straight from the battery (through a fuse
>> of course).

>
>That will certainly do the job - my high-powerwed Kenwood CD player has
>a 7.5A fuse in the main feed and a 2.5A in the switched feed and never
>seems to run into problems. I'm guessing the 200W output is some
>bizarre "peak output" measurement rather than a continuous RMS rating.


The kenwood stereo i had in my landy has a 10amp fuse actually fitted
in the back of the stereo.
 

"Tom Woods" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 31 May 2005 08:22:47 +1200, EMB <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Samuel wrote:
> >
> >> just in the process of putting a kenwood cd player into my series 3.

there
> >> used to be a radio or something that sits on top of the rear-view

mirror.
> >> but some goose had wired the old radio using speaker wire to supply the
> >> power. very thin indeed, and unfused. so i've run some new 20 amp

(player is
> >> rated at 200w or something) wire straight from the battery (through a

fuse
> >> of course).

> >
> >That will certainly do the job - my high-powerwed Kenwood CD player has
> >a 7.5A fuse in the main feed and a 2.5A in the switched feed and never
> >seems to run into problems. I'm guessing the 200W output is some
> >bizarre "peak output" measurement rather than a continuous RMS rating.

>
> The kenwood stereo i had in my landy has a 10amp fuse actually fitted
> in the back of the stereo.


Yep, likewise. my kenwood has a 10 amp "cartridge" (is this the right name.
you know those new style car fuses) fuse in the back. but always well
advised to chuck a fuse at the start of the power supply wire, and the
switch wire for that matter.

Sam.


 
Yep, my Panasonic MP3/WMA/CD Player also has a 10Amp cartridge and I put an
inline fuse on there too. It works fine, it was a bit too deep to fit in the
centre of the vents, but I bought an aftermarket surround, ditched the LR
one and managed to squeeze it in. Maximum recommended angle for the unit was
30 degrees but it must be about 45 degrees under the dash!

Wolverine
Big Red 110CSW


 
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