First start for a brand new engine

Just about to start my rebuilt 4.6 Range Rover engine for the first
time. I've put a brand new short motor in. Any tips on how I should
go about starting it and running it in? I'd like to spin it over first
without it starting to get oil circulated, the engine is dry and the
cooler is empty (the sump is full of course, all bearings were
assembled with lots of oil, and the followers were soaked in oil for 24
hours). I'm a bit unsure how to do this as the engine has an ECU. Can
I disconnect the coil pack, remove plugs and spin away untill the oil
light goes out without causing the ECU to log faults?

Alan C

I am not speaking from experience here so take it as such, but can you
not drive the oil pump with a drill to get it circulating before
starting up.

Failing which I am sure the oil will not take too long to get to where
it needs to be.

Regards
Stephen

On 3 Jul 2006 17:10:53 -0700, [email protected] wrote:

>Just about to start my rebuilt 4.6 Range Rover engine for the first
>time. I've put a brand new short motor in. Any tips on how I should
>go about starting it and running it in? I'd like to spin it over first
>without it starting to get oil circulated, the engine is dry and the
>cooler is empty (the sump is full of course, all bearings were
>assembled with lots of oil, and the followers were soaked in oil for 24
>hours). I'm a bit unsure how to do this as the engine has an ECU. Can
>I disconnect the coil pack, remove plugs and spin away untill the oil
>light goes out without causing the ECU to log faults?
>
>Alan C

You did pack the pump with vaseline before assembly didn't you?

Cheers,
Chrisall.



[email protected] wrote:
> Just about to start my rebuilt 4.6 Range Rover engine for the first
> time. I've put a brand new short motor in. Any tips on how I should
> go about starting it and running it in? I'd like to spin it over first
> without it starting to get oil circulated, the engine is dry and the
> cooler is empty (the sump is full of course, all bearings were
> assembled with lots of oil, and the followers were soaked in oil for 24
> hours). I'm a bit unsure how to do this as the engine has an ECU. Can
> I disconnect the coil pack, remove plugs and spin away untill the oil
> light goes out without causing the ECU to log faults?
>
> Alan C

[email protected] wrote:
> You did pack the pump with vaseline before assembly didn't you?
>
> Cheers,
> Chrisall.

No! This is the later crank driven type, there's no distributor so you
can't spin it with a drill down the distributor hole, and you can't
access the oil pump to pack it with vaseline as it is only accessible
with the timing cover removed. I believe it's self priming, or at
least I hope it is! I was going to disconnect the low tension
connections to the coil pack, remove plugs and crank for a bit,
hopefully untill the oil light goes out, but I'm wondering if this
would make the engine ECU check engine light come on by logging faults?
Would removing the connections from the injectors as well be usefull
to stop petrol from being squirted about and not burnt? I can reset
the check engine light though as I've got a OBD II code scanner which
works with this car thankfully.

Alan C

[email protected] wrote:


> Would removing the connections from the injectors as well be usefull
> to stop petrol from being squirted about and not burnt?

Just pull the fuel pump fuse or relay instead.

On 4 Jul 2006 02:18:01 -0700, [email protected] wrote:

> I'm wondering if this would make the engine ECU check engine light come
> on by logging faults?

Why not disconnect the ECU? What it doesn't know it can't complain about?
If the ECU is needed to enable cranking, power the starter solenoid via
another means.

--
Cheers [email protected]
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

On or around 4 Jul 2006 02:18:01 -0700, [email protected] enlightened us
thusly:

>
>[email protected] wrote:
>> You did pack the pump with vaseline before assembly didn't you?
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Chrisall.
>
>No! This is the later crank driven type, there's no distributor so you
>can't spin it with a drill down the distributor hole, and you can't
>access the oil pump to pack it with vaseline as it is only accessible
>with the timing cover removed. I believe it's self priming, or at
>least I hope it is! I was going to disconnect the low tension
>connections to the coil pack, remove plugs and crank for a bit,
>hopefully untill the oil light goes out, but I'm wondering if this
>would make the engine ECU check engine light come on by logging faults?


> Would removing the connections from the injectors as well be usefull
>to stop petrol from being squirted about and not burnt? I can reset
>the check engine light though as I've got a OBD II code scanner which
>works with this car thankfully.

If I were you I'd just disconnect the injectors - no fuel, no running. The
ECU will undoubtedly pick this up as a fault, but since you say you can
clear that, then you should be OK.

the other way is just fire it up at idle, and watch the light like a hawk,
if it doesn't go out in a few seconds shut it down and investigate. AFAIK
the later pumps are self-priming as you say.

I've no doubt Badger will be along to advise in a minute.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"My centre is giving way, my right is in retreat; situation excellent.
I shall attack. - Marshal Foch (1851 - 1929)

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around 4 Jul 2006 02:18:01 -0700, [email protected] enlightened
us
> thusly:
>
> >
> >[email protected] wrote:
> >> You did pack the pump with vaseline before assembly didn't you?
> >>
> >> Cheers,
> >> Chrisall.
> >
> >No! This is the later crank driven type, there's no distributor so you
> >can't spin it with a drill down the distributor hole, and you can't
> >access the oil pump to pack it with vaseline as it is only accessible
> >with the timing cover removed. I believe it's self priming, or at
> >least I hope it is! I was going to disconnect the low tension
> >connections to the coil pack, remove plugs and crank for a bit,
> >hopefully untill the oil light goes out, but I'm wondering if this
> >would make the engine ECU check engine light come on by logging faults?
>
>
> > Would removing the connections from the injectors as well be usefull
> >to stop petrol from being squirted about and not burnt? I can reset
> >the check engine light though as I've got a OBD II code scanner which
> >works with this car thankfully.
>
> If I were you I'd just disconnect the injectors - no fuel, no running.
The
> ECU will undoubtedly pick this up as a fault, but since you say you can
> clear that, then you should be OK.
>
> the other way is just fire it up at idle, and watch the light like a hawk,
> if it doesn't go out in a few seconds shut it down and investigate. AFAIK
> the later pumps are self-priming as you say.
>
> I've no doubt Badger will be along to advise in a minute.

Remove fuel pump fuse, spin on starter until oil light goes out, shouldn't
take more than a few turns - the pickup of oil is pretty quick with the
serpentine pump.
Fit fuse, start engine and hold at 2000rpm for 20 minutes to "break-in" the
camshaft lobes. (If auto, put transfer box in neutral and main box in "D",
handbrake FIRMLY on, this prevents accelerated wear of the input shaft
seals, the main cause of "A" clutch failure!)
If you need to return to idle during the initial 20 min, don't let it sit
there for any length of time as cam lobe wear will occur.
Badger.

On Tue, 4 Jul 2006 16:39:14 +0100, "Badger"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> (If auto, put transfer box in neutral and main box in "D",
>handbrake FIRMLY on, this prevents accelerated wear of the input shaft
>seals, the main cause of "A" clutch failure!

<grandmother eggs mode>
From memory, insert a fuse into one of the empty slots under the
drivers seat to put T box into neutral on a P38. Your handbook (or
someone with a better memory than me) will tell you which one.

</gem>

David

rads wrote:

|| On Tue, 4 Jul 2006 16:39:14 +0100, "Badger"
|| <[email protected]> wrote:
||| (If auto, put transfer box in neutral and main box in "D",
||| handbrake FIRMLY on, this prevents accelerated wear of the input
||| shaft seals, the main cause of "A" clutch failure!
||
|| <grandmother eggs mode>
|| From memory, insert a fuse into one of the empty slots under the
|| drivers seat to put T box into neutral on a P38. Your handbook (or
|| someone with a better memory than me) will tell you which one.
||
|| </gem>
||
|| David

Fuse 11? From (uncertain) memory.

--
Rich
==============================

I don't approve of signatures, so I don't have one.

> Remove fuel pump fuse, spin on starter until oil light goes out, shouldn't
> take more than a few turns - the pickup of oil is pretty quick with the
> serpentine pump.
> Fit fuse, start engine and hold at 2000rpm for 20 minutes to "break-in" the
> camshaft lobes. (If auto, put transfer box in neutral and main box in "D",
> handbrake FIRMLY on, this prevents accelerated wear of the input shaft
> seals, the main cause of "A" clutch failure!)
> If you need to return to idle during the initial 20 min, don't let it sit
> there for any length of time as cam lobe wear will occur.
> Badger.

Thanks for tip on the auto box, I forgot about doing this and you
reminded me just in time! That saved 20 mins of unnecessary wear on
the A clutch. I just cranked the engine and once started the oil light
went out within 3 seconds, so there was nothing to worry about! The
followers were a terrible racket, but slowly and surely they pumped up
and went quiet. Just got to keep an eye out for leaks and check the
levels etc, and run it in now. Any special techniques here?

Alan C

[email protected] wrote:
>> Remove fuel pump fuse, spin on starter until oil light goes out,
>> shouldn't take more than a few turns - the pickup of oil is pretty
>> quick with the serpentine pump.
>> Fit fuse, start engine and hold at 2000rpm for 20 minutes to
>> "break-in" the camshaft lobes. (If auto, put transfer box in
>> neutral and main box in "D", handbrake FIRMLY on, this prevents
>> accelerated wear of the input shaft seals, the main cause of "A"
>> clutch failure!)
>> If you need to return to idle during the initial 20 min, don't let
>> it sit there for any length of time as cam lobe wear will occur.
>> Badger.
>
> Thanks for tip on the auto box, I forgot about doing this and you
> reminded me just in time! That saved 20 mins of unnecessary wear on
> the A clutch. I just cranked the engine and once started the oil
> light went out within 3 seconds, so there was nothing to worry
> about! The followers were a terrible racket, but slowly and surely
> they pumped up and went quiet. Just got to keep an eye out for
> leaks and check the levels etc, and run it in now. Any special
> techniques here?
>
> Alan C

Am i missing summat here? It's a P38, how did you put it in D in the normal box & neutral in the TX box
at the same time?

Unless mines different you cant do that can you? Either high or low range etc?

Nige

Nige wrote:

|| [email protected] wrote:
|||| Remove fuel pump fuse, spin on starter until oil light goes out,
|||| shouldn't take more than a few turns - the pickup of oil is pretty
|||| quick with the serpentine pump.
|||| Fit fuse, start engine and hold at 2000rpm for 20 minutes to
|||| "break-in" the camshaft lobes. (If auto, put transfer box in
|||| neutral and main box in "D", handbrake FIRMLY on, this prevents
|||| accelerated wear of the input shaft seals, the main cause of "A"
|||| clutch failure!)
|||| If you need to return to idle during the initial 20 min, don't let
|||| it sit there for any length of time as cam lobe wear will occur.
|||| Badger.
|||
||| Thanks for tip on the auto box, I forgot about doing this and you
||| reminded me just in time! That saved 20 mins of unnecessary wear on
||| the A clutch. I just cranked the engine and once started the oil
||| light went out within 3 seconds, so there was nothing to worry
||| about! The followers were a terrible racket, but slowly and surely
||| they pumped up and went quiet. Just got to keep an eye out for
||| leaks and check the levels etc, and run it in now. Any special
||| techniques here?
|||
||| Alan C
||
|| Am i missing summat here? It's a P38, how did you put it in D in the
|| normal box & neutral in the TX box at the same time?
||
|| Unless mines different you cant do that can you? Either high or low
|| range etc?
||
|| Nige

There's an empty fuse holder (it was fuse 11 on the Classic Rangie) and if
you put a fuse in there it puts the tbox in neutral. It should be in your
handbook under "important things to do if you ever have to be towed".

--
Rich
==============================

I don't approve of signatures, so I don't have one.

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > Remove fuel pump fuse, spin on starter until oil light goes out,
shouldn't
> > take more than a few turns - the pickup of oil is pretty quick with the
> > serpentine pump.
> > Fit fuse, start engine and hold at 2000rpm for 20 minutes to "break-in"
the
> > camshaft lobes. (If auto, put transfer box in neutral and main box in
"D",
> > handbrake FIRMLY on, this prevents accelerated wear of the input shaft
> > seals, the main cause of "A" clutch failure!)
> > If you need to return to idle during the initial 20 min, don't let it
sit
> > there for any length of time as cam lobe wear will occur.
> > Badger.
>
> Thanks for tip on the auto box, I forgot about doing this and you
> reminded me just in time! That saved 20 mins of unnecessary wear on
> the A clutch. I just cranked the engine and once started the oil light
> went out within 3 seconds, so there was nothing to worry about! The
> followers were a terrible racket, but slowly and surely they pumped up
> and went quiet. Just got to keep an eye out for leaks and check the
> levels etc, and run it in now. Any special techniques here?

Don't load it too much or rev it too high initially, just increase the load
and rpm gradually over, say, 400 miles. I always dump the oil after the
initial running period in the workshop, then the oil and filter after 2-300
miles.
Don't sit at a constant rpm for any great length of time, this will promote
bore glazing and prevent correct break-in of the rings, causing high oil
consumption.
BTW, 20 min at 2000rpm in P or N is just about guaranteed to fry the A
clutch, not just unnecessary wear!
Badger.

> Am i missing summat here? It's a P38, how did you put it in D in the normal box & neutral in the TX box
> at the same time?
>
> Unless mines different you cant do that can you? Either high or low range etc?
>
> Nige

Nige,
Under the drivers seat is a fuse panel, slot 11 is empty and unmarked.
If you put a 5 amp of larger fuse in here then turn the ignition on,
the dash will go beep beep and show Transfer Neutral. This is the only
way you can tow the vehicle on all 4 wheels if required. Unless you
want to unbolt the propshafts that is. By the way, if you do need to
tow it on one axle only, you MUST have the propshaft removed on the
axle that's still on the road or you'll destroy the viscous coupling.
It'll actually try to climb out of the lift if the lifted axle is on a
spectacle lift, which would be amusing to watch!

Alan C

[email protected] wrote:
>> Am i missing summat here? It's a P38, how did you put it in D in
>> the normal box & neutral in the TX box at the same time?
>>
>> Unless mines different you cant do that can you? Either high or
>> low range etc?
>>
>> Nige
>
> Nige,
> Under the drivers seat is a fuse panel, slot 11 is empty and
> unmarked. If you put a 5 amp of larger fuse in here then turn the
> ignition on, the dash will go beep beep and show Transfer Neutral.
> This is the only way you can tow the vehicle on all 4 wheels if
> required. Unless you want to unbolt the propshafts that is. By
> the way, if you do need to tow it on one axle only, you MUST have
> the propshaft removed on the axle that's still on the road or
> you'll destroy the viscous coupling. It'll actually try to climb
> out of the lift if the lifted axle is on a spectacle lift, which
> would be amusing to watch!
>
> Alan C

I have no manual matey, cheers for that!

Nige