Faulty brake light switch

Morning,

I have an '84 Series III 109, with 24 volt electrics I picked up from an MoD disposal company in 2009.

I have had to replace the brake switch (which looks like an original part) because one of the spade connectors snapped. I have tried a number of replacement brake switches myself (purchased from eBay, and Land Rover specialists), which are not exact matches for the original brake light switch. Within a short period of time, every brake light switch has failed.

I have also taken the Land Rover to a couple of local garages (including a mechanic with Series III experience) to have the brake light switch replaced. Again, they have not been able to replace the original brake light switch with an exact match. Within a short period of time, every brake light switch has failed.

I have been told repeatedly that the replacement brake light switches are suitable for a 24v Land Rover.

I have also had the wiring for the brake lights tested and been informed that there are no problems with the wiring.

Has anyone else experienced this problem and is there a solution, which does not involve converting the Land Rover from 24v to 12v?

Thanks,

Richard

I presume it's the switch that fits through the pedal box from the engine compartment (part no. 575166) that fails. Do you know how it fails? mechanically? electrically? are the contacts burnt? Does the brake light flicker when it's on? I can't see a 12v switch not coping with 24 volts unless there's something else wrong.

Hi,

Try installing a relay. The switches aren't really up to switching the high current drawn by the brake lights and if you sit with your foot on the brake for a period of time it will cook the switch.

Installing a relay will mean the switch only switches a small amount of current and will last a lot longer.

I can only assume "MoD disposal Company" = Witham!!!

How many people do you know who have to keep replacing brake light switches? I've done mine once and that's cos it got wet and corroded inside. And 24v systems use half the current!

oxides said:

How many people do you know who have to keep replacing brake light switches? I've done mine once and that's cos it got wet and corroded inside. And 24v systems use half the current!

Click to expand...

True that it's only half the current, but, i replaced my brake light switch cus it had melted. I've heard other people have the same problem.

A Relay costs about £5 so it's not expensive and it could help solve the issue.

You should be able to get them cheaper than that! just make sure it's a 24v one...

oxides said:

You should be able to get them cheaper than that! just make sure it's a 24v one...

Click to expand...

Yes... if you go to the right place it's £0.50 and if you go to the wrong place it's £10.

£5 I thought was a reasonable price to suggest to the OP to give him an indication of cost

Afternoon,

Oxide, I've replaced the switch twice myself, my local garage has replaced the switch at least twice and the land rover mechanic has replaced the switch once. Replacement switches have been sourced from (amoung others) Christian Autos in Bristol. The switch does screw into the peddle box and the switches either fail completely or switch the brake lights on permanently (electrical not mechanical failure).

Bump, thanks for the advice. I'm not the most electrically minded individual, how/where do I wire the relay into the brake switch to reduce the current draw?

Cheers,

Richard

And one more thing....

....the Land Rover came from L Jackson & Co near Doncaster.

This might be a silly question 'cos you'd be blowing rear lights all the time BUT..... they are 24v bulbs in the back?

Have you replaced the switches with genuine ones or something that came in a blue box made out of dog **** ???

As above there is little difference between some of the electrical components ...i.e. S3 indicator stalks are interchangeable between 12/24v only different AFAIK in the connections .
The mili 24v ones have slightly different ones to the 12v.

Cheap ****ty after market components are the bane of my life ....Bluebox light units are fine on indicators BUT melt on the higher wattage duty asked of brake light duty.

IF you have bought a genuine one then feel free to ignore the above ....and start possibly looking towards the multiway lighting switch....if you have one, as the brake lights also run through this to enable no brake lights to be shown when running in convoy.

Oxides, probably not a silly question if you know how rubbish I am with anything electrical.

However the bulbs are 24v and I haven't had to replace any brake lights for a couple of years.