Failed MOT. Learn to weld or pay somebody?!?

MOT failed on my 90, 3 lots of rust/rot on the chassis. Not had a chance to see where yet as I'm abroad.

Always one for learning a new skill, so thinking of a welding course. Annoyingly, can't find anything part-time and local.

Not that bothered about getting a certificate, so are there people out there that do courses non-certificated?!? Or somebody local I can pay to 'show me the ropes' as it were?!?

I just loath having to pay mega bucks to have somebody fix it for me. But fully appreciate it may be the best thing to do once I see location and amount of damage.

Ta in advance...ill follow up with more info and pics when back in the UK

Just buy a welder, obtain some scrap, and start watching YouTube.

buy a hobby type mig welder with gas i think clarke do one under £100 have a bit of a practice once you get the voltage and wire feed set right its a doddle,like yourself i couldnt justify getting someone else to do it.just a bit of playing about will let you see how easy it is.

+1 for learning to weld, let's face it it's a tratter and this won't be the only time it'll need welding

Righto, I'll enroll at the university of YouTube once I get back. Will look for a decent gas MIG for a DIY'er and start playing

Cheers all

Do a search on welding gas too, it's been covered on here before. There are expensive hire options for the bottle and some cheaper options too. The disposable ones are no good, cost a fortune in the long run. I use a Clarke 130Amp which is just enough for chassis work. Cost about £100 second hand.

A word of caution:

If you are going to do structural welding that might be dangerous if it failed, get it done professionally.

I know that the 'chicken-****' welding that is shown on here occasionally is acceptable to some, but if you see proper MIG welding, especially on a Landy chassis, you would know immediately which one you'd want on YOUR chassis, with your kids and lady inside the truck.

Air Liquide do a small bottle and regulator hire service, look up Albee: www.albeegascylinders.com/

Here is a sequence of picture I took when our two sons were repairing a 109" chassis. It was pretty bad, but eventually it all got done, properly:

















I made them both look at the hidden parts as well as the outer stuff.

Peter

We use an Oerlikon 250A MIG welder which takes a full-sized bottle. It has a 100% duty cycle at the kind of welding currents we use for chassis stuff, so no stops to let it cool down. We rent the bottle through our metalwork suppliers.



Peter

Apologies, thought my profile gave my location. I'm not far from Stevenage, Hertfordshire

If it is serious damage or super structural, I'll get a pro in, rest assured

Top-notch work that is Peter. I dream of one day having a welder like that

Not my own work, Philip is the ace with the welders, I just direct the operations and take pictures!

The welder was bought secondhand for £250 plus VAT from a machine tool dealer in Manchester. It is single-phase but needs a 32A supply.

Peter

That's my entire garage supply!

Simple answer:- learn to weld.
And I do mean learn - find a vid on you tube which shows you the proper way to do the various joint types, and practice on scrap.

Unfortunately, the pressure of having to fix your landy is probably not too conducive to learning... so, as others as have said, above, I would advise some caution with major repairs

Duty cycle, (assuming fair quality), is the most important aspect of a welding power source... then, with the cost of 'lectric, the efficiency of the thing. Cheaper machines tend to have rubbish wire feed systems, and this will be a royal pain the arris = avoid if possible

A second hand industrial type machine will have a good duty cycle, and the rating plate will probably give you the maximum rated draw. simple arithmetic will give you approximate efficiency. The sort of money Peter mentions above should get you a proper machine, decent wire feed, and it should last a lifetime, unless you leave it out in the rain. It should also be repairable if it ever breaks.

When we got struck by lightening, which blew our MIG set to bits (!), we looked a few different makes of replacements, and went for the Thermal Arc Fabricator range, as it is about 40% more efficient than another brand we could get hold of...

The other aspect of the larger machines is that they take 15kg reels of wire, which at about £40 a reel are stupidly cheap against what you are paying for 1kg or 7 kg reels.

We keep three sizes and nozzle to match.

Peter

I would always advise going the learn to weld route. That isn't the full story however. You will need grinders and a supply of different types of steel. Gas, as said isn't always easy to get unless you want to spend some money. Mig welders can be fickle things if not looked after. Tips, nozzles, liners etc can all cause you issues. Mig welding is easy though, as long as you have done the preparation !!!

I found getting a nuclear stick welder worth every bit of its 20 quid. I just hold the stick as far away from the work as possible and let the rod spray steel all over the chassis until a good thick crust covers everything. Oh and wear a hat and make sure you squint.
Best bit is getting the kids involved................ they love welding the car with dad.

Again, the bigger machines tend to have better quality parts. Our machine has had the same lead and gun since we bought it secondhand, just nozzles and the occasional shroud when the gun gets dropped.

We bought a new gun and lead set but never used it yet, and as stated above, the wire feed is very good indeed, never had any problems with it.

Peter

Galvanise!!! Then never have to worry again!!!

I guess it depends on how long it'll take you to learn, and whether you can leave the Landy off the road for that long!