Extending life of window sliding channels

Hey all,

So I now have all the bits to rebuild both door tops with new window channels, spacers etc.

I've bought the original style metal ones but now read that these are not expected to last that long and that there are plastic and aluminium ones available. Hey ho, I'll use what I have but I want to do whatever I can to make them last longer than usual.

So the core issue seems to be the design of the lower part of the window frame where the long channel sits. On mine the only hole to allow water to drain away is the hole for the window lock. So one strategy might be to drill a few more holes for drainage? Presumably the water will just drain into the door bottom and out the corners.

The second option might be to fill the spaces around the channel with so much clear sealant that there is nowhere for water to sit. But I think all that will do is make water sit in the window channel and it won't be able to drain away.

My third option might be to fit a rubber outer seal like you have on normal door windows. It this went from the outer door skin to the sliding window it would direct water away from the sliding channel. Actually it could go between the spacer and the channel. Water would still be going down inside the door but would not be sitting in the channel. I like this idea best but of course don't have any outer window seals lying around. I'm thinking parts for something small like an MG Midget might be closest.

Anyone come across this mod? I think the window would still slide forward OK because these seals have enough structure.

Thoughts?

Al.

I'd go for option 1 in the first place but spray the cavity with lots of waxoyl or similar so the extra water isn't going to rust your doortop twice as quick. Then go for option 3, preventing the water from getting to the channel in the first place has got to be a good idea. As you point out getting hold of a good seal is key, it has got to be both effective and look right -perhaps a trip to the local scrap yard to get a few 'samples' might be an idea, try them out, see which work/look right then buy the new part. Also you could pack the channel out with Vaseline to help repel water and reduce corrosion.

I replaced my door tops completely, I didn't muck about replacing channels. I think the pair of door tops including the glass cost less than £100. I fitted them using the original rubber joint and didn't bother painting them. That was 3 years ago and there is no sign of rust. I reckon they will last about another ten years before I need to change them again. For the money, it's not worth mucking about.

Col

I would put a little engine oil in the channel's when I checked the oil level, kept them good for years.

Thanks all,
I think I will use no glue or sealant, just plenty of Bilt Hamber clear wax and screws to fix.
Plus a few extra drain holes and hopefully a seal. I'm thinking maybe the vertical seal that attaches to the front of the sliding pane could be modified to work.
One doortop is brand new, the other not in bad shape, just cleaned up and painted.
Cheers,
Al.

Buy the plastic channel from series 3 club does not rot.

Don't take them out the packet! Once they are fitted they are on a fast track to dust; I'm on my 2nd set (3rd if you count the orginals) in 5 years. You can almost see them fall apart.

Thanks Gents,
I didn't know about the all plastic ones until I had the original type bought so I'll fit them and keep oiling them with light oil from time to time.
I did a trial fitting today. The replacement alloy spacer seems to sit very low in the base of the frame. It's flush on the other side that I haven't dismantled yet.
So I think I will just cut the flat base from the old alloy spacer that came out of the door and that will lift the new spacer a bit. I think generally though the upper and lower channels are a bit far apart so the sliding pane can move out of vertical alignment too easily. So really I need to lift the whole channel to the same extent. Might have to buy a second alloy strip to go under the front half of the lower channel or alternatively I think I have some stainless sheet somewhere.

If I'd have known the ready glazed door tops were so cheap I think I would have gone down that route (good advice Col). Then again, what's the point in having an old Landy if you can't spend some time doing fairly simple jobs like this!!

Al.