Exploding Pipes

Ok exploding might be exhagerating, but it got you here reading this!

Bursting is probably more apt - although one of them really did give off an impressive bang.

Basically, I bought a 2007 LR2 recently, it came with hole in the lower intercooler pipe section. But the previous owner had recently replaced the top elbow section due to a hole before this one occurred. A coincidence I thought, and set about replacing the burst section as soon as I got it home.

Here's a thread where I ask about how to do it: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/replace-intercooler-pipe.370216/

Anyway, I replaced the whole set of 3 sections of the piping to the intercooler, as part of a kit, and took it out for a drive, and BOOM, the middle section this time pops wide open!

So what do I do now? Assume it was yet another coincidence? that there was a fault in the pipe section? (it's the hard plastic section, where as the 2 sections are silicon pipes (as you probably already know).

Or do I start investigating why this engine is making holes in intercooler pipe sections? I'm loathed to spend some more time replacing the pipe, to just make another one go pop.

So, thoughts please? Try again, and hope for the best, or start investigating things like the MAP sensor (suggested in the other thread)?

If the plastic part has failed, the first thing I'd suggest is to ensure it's of suitable quality. There are loads of cheap substandard FL2 boost pipes on ebay. I've looked at some of these plastic sections, and they're nowhere near as sturdy as the original part.
So you need to make sure you're chasing a genuine fault, not a fault caused be a substandard part.

Was the original hose damaged through over boost or age?

Post pictures please.

Does your fancy ODB display show the MAP readings?

If they go way high, it would presumably indicate a turbo issue because the ECU should not let them get to high (assuming ECU controls turbo boost).

If they look low, the ECU may be telling the turbo to create to much boost due to a faulty MAP sensor.

These are my simple thoughts - and I don't know what the MAP readings should be.

GrumpyGel said:

Does your fancy ODB display show the MAP readings?

If they go way high, it would presumably indicate a turbo issue because the ECU should not let them get to high (assuming ECU controls turbo boost).

If they look low, the ECU may be telling the turbo to create to much boost due to a faulty MAP sensor.

These are my simple thoughts - and I don't know what the MAP readings should be.

Click to expand...

It tells me some numbers yeah, but I have no idea how to interpret them?

GrumpyGel said:

I don't know what the MAP readings should be

Click to expand...

Up to 250 kPa, or 20 PSI.

Nodge68 said:

If the plastic part has failed, the first thing I'd suggest is to ensure it's of suitable quality. There are loads of cheap substandard FL2 boost pipes on ebay. I've looked at some of these plastic sections, and they're nowhere near as sturdy as the original part.
So you need to make sure you're chasing a genuine fault, not a fault caused be a substandard part.

Was the original hose damaged through over boost or age?

Post pictures please.

Click to expand...

I'm not sure how the 2 previous failures occurred, but the hole in the one I took off to replace was definitely an outward facing tear as if blow out with pressure. That could still be because of age though?

I'll get a picture of it up soon.

This plastic section that failed definitely isn't as good quality as the original part I took out. The one I took out (possibly original?) has metal rings inside the ends, whereas the replacement that failed is plastic only.

HeywoodFloyd said:

I'm not sure how the 2 previous failures occurred, but the hole in the one I took off to replace was definitely an outward facing tear as if blow out with pressure. That could still be because of age though?

Click to expand...

Was it the rubber pipe that failed? They do deteriorate with age, much like car tyres do, so can eventually fail, normally near the clip.

HeywoodFloyd said:

This plastic section that failed definitely isn't as good quality as the original part I took out. The one I took out (possibly original?) has metal rings inside the ends, whereas the replacement that failed is plastic only.

Click to expand...

Sounds like a cheap Chinese replacement, which aren't much good from what I've seen.

It's also worth checking the MAP sensor orifice is clear, but don't poke anything down its orifice, just used brake cleaner sprayed across the orifice.

Nodge68 said:

Was it the rubber pipe that failed? They do deteriorate with age, much like car tyres do, so can eventually fail, normally near the clip.

Sounds like a cheap Chinese replacement, which aren't much good from what I've seen.

It's also worth checking the MAP sensor orifice is clear, but don't poke anything down its orifice, just used brake cleaner sprayed across the orifice.

Click to expand...

Struggling to get past the amount of times you just said orifice! haha.

Is that easy to get to? I'll have a google/youtube - on a different car I had to take off the whole manifold to get to the MAP sensor, I really hope that's not the deal on this one.

Oh and yeah, the lower longer rubber pipe, but it was in the middle, about an inch long tear outwards.

HeywoodFloyd said:

Struggling to get past the amount of times you just said orifice! haha.

Click to expand...

Lol.

HeywoodFloyd said:

Is that easy to get to? I'll have a google/youtube - on a different car I had to take off the whole manifold to get to the MAP sensor, I really hope that's not the deal on this one.

Click to expand...

No, it's easy to get to. It's in the throttle body, pretty close to where you fitted the short boost hose.
It's item No1 in this diagram.

I was worried that now I'd replaced both end rubber sections with stronger silicon ones, that this is why the plastic one failed instead - point of least resistance.

HeywoodFloyd said:

Oh and yeah, the lower longer rubber pipe, but it was in the middle, about an inch long tear outwards.

Click to expand...

If the hose felt soft and floppy, then it can fail like that, as the rubber begins to degrade over time. It's not uncommon for a 10 year old boost hose to split.

HeywoodFloyd said:

I was worried that now I'd replaced both end rubber sections with stronger silicon ones, that this is why the plastic one failed instead - point of least resistance.

Click to expand...

The entire boost system needs to be able to take the 20 + PSI, but I suspect your issue is more likely crap parts, rather than a fault.
The ECM is smart enough to know if there's a fault with the MAP sensor, as it'll be getting information from multiple sensors, which should all return figures within a set tolerance, if not it'll put "reduced engine performance" on the LCD.

Right, based on all of this...

I'm going to clean my... orifice.. with break cleaner, put the original middle section back on the pipes, go for a drive and watch the values and report back.

HeywoodFloyd said:

Right, based on all of this...

I'm going to clean my... orifice.. with break cleaner, put the original middle section back on the pipes, go for a drive and watch the values and report back.

Click to expand...

Sounds like a plan.

If these are britpart they will explode if you blow harder on them. Or even take them out of the plastic wrap.

PRO said:

If these are britpart they will explode if you blow harder on them. Or even take them out of the plastic wrap.

Click to expand...

I have to agree change the BR for a SH in the name and you have the correct sounding name. use best quality parts you can, original is first choice.

Well so far so good. Stuck to the plan and no exploding pipes at the moment.

What's the actual max boost I should be seeing? What should I treat as "too much"?

It definitely goes up to 20 and a little over when I pull away fast. I've set an alarm on my obd device, that beeps if I hit 20 psi, but this happens a lot, so I'd rather set it to beep when I hit something that is in the "you don't want to be here" range.

HeywoodFloyd said:

What's the actual max boost I should be seeing? What should I treat as "too much"?

Click to expand...

It's normal maximum boost is about 21 PSI, but does have a short term overboost of 25 PSI IIRC.

Ok, I'll set the alarm on 22 then I think. Thanks for all the help.

Now to move onto all the other problems with it:

• Horrific overnight battery drain
• Pitted rear brake disc
• Squeak from somewhere at low speed
• Driver seat height adjustment doesn't stay elevated
• Rattle from rear, possibly loose exhaust/box

And a new one today, I stalled it quite violently, then for next 5 minutes I had a horrific rattly grindy noise from the front. It went away when I got to 45mph and didn't come back. I'm suspecting engine mounts as PO said he had issues with them before.

Wish me luck.