Exmoor Trim seat risers - anyone fitted them?

Has anyone fitted the seat risers from Exmoor Trim?
I genuinely thought it'd be a 10-minute job I could do in my lunch break - you'd have thought I'd have learnt by now...

Step 1: Bolt the bottom part of each riser to the seat box. Apart from the fact that the supplied parts don't look like those on the instruction sheet, this bit went okay.


Step 2: Place the top part of each riser on and use the supplied handles to fix them into position.


Two problems become apparent. The handles are supposed to go through the riser in a number of positions, so you can alter the tilt - front and back. Well the back of the top part of the riser fouls on the bodywork behind the seat meaning it's only possible to insert the handle in one position. Secondly, there is no way on earth that those little handles are meant to squeeze that riser together to stop it from moving about. Consequently the riser just rattles about, and is no use to anyone.

I've contacted Exmoor Trim, but as yet have not received a reply. It's nearly 5:30, I need to go home soon - so I'll have to undo what I've done so far and refit my seat without the riser.

Ian.

i was thinking of getting a pair these maybe i wont bother if they are hassle.let us know the outcome.

I was also going to get these!

I have just put a booster in instead! lol

Just to add the answer to the thread for future reference..

I spoke to Nick at Exmoor Trim. He reckoned the problem of the riser fouling on the bodywork is down to the manufacturing differences between individual cars. I really needed the riser to fit in it's most rearward position so I hammered the protruding bodywork down. Not exactly rocket science, but it did the trick.

And with regard to the little handles that are intended to tighten it all up - well it turns out I was just being a big girl's blouse. These things need to be tightened up ridiculously tight in order to squeeze the top half of the riser onto the bottom half. I was convinced I was going to snap something or strip a thread, but I got them tight enough to keep the riser in position.

I wanted to fit these for a bit of extra legroom - I'm 6'5" and have been getting cramp in my right calf when driving in traffic. I've put the riser and the seat at their most rearward positions, so reckon I've moved the seating position back about 2" and up 1". The seat could be tipped back a bit more if the rear bulkhead was removed (that's on my job list) and that would probably improve things further.

Ian.

Glad you sorted it Ian

Lislandy said:

Glad you sorted it Ian

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Fang yooo veri mush

Ian, I have just got a set of these risers in front of me. Before installing I have put one side together on the bench and tightened those locks and, yes, they do need tightening hard up don't they!

Before I begin fitting them to the car I'm wondering how the rear of the seat runner is attached to the riser. The riser at the rear is slotted not drilled and tapped as in the photos from Exmoor so I guess one of the supplied bolts is used together with one of the supplied nylock nuts and washer? Looks as if it might be a bit fiddly to get the nut and washer on?

Hi,
Are you referring to attaching the bottom part to the seat box? Basically you need to fix it where the existing seat rail attaches. So if the seat rail has captive nuts you can bolt into, you can use those. I think that was how mine was attached.

Ian

Ian, no, I was referring to attaching the seat rail/runners to the rear of the riser top section (into the slot at the rear of top part of the riser).

Ah, okay - in which case, yes - it's the supplied nuts and bolts used to attach the seat rail to the riser. Only a little bit fiddly!

Ian.

Thanks. I'll have a go at them in the morning.

Took about an hour (mechanically challenged me!). I found bolting the seat rails to the rear of the top (slotted) riser very fiddly for my arthritic hands.

If anyone is thinking of fitting a set to a 110 check that both risers will move to all positions before refitting the seat. I found that one riser couldn't reach one position because the rear of a top riser section was slightly fouling the flange coming up from the floor behind the seat. Judicious use of a hammer fixed it though.

That sounds familiar! I think I had to apply Mr Hammer to the area behind the seat too.

Glad you got them fitted.

Ian.

Just got back from a run to pick up the OH. I have the seat set level at the higher position, the front fixing bolts in the middle holes. A huge difference to the driving position for me. Legs are more comfortable with more stretch. Glad I got them. Hope the OH can reach the pedals now

I have just fitted these in my Defender. It is fiddly. At the rear of the riser you have to use one of the bolts and lock nuts, there is no other way. I too have found that basically it is only possible to fit the riser in the fully up position at the rear end, when I tried to lower the back it fouls the gear stored there. I have no bulkhead, it has been replaced with a bar, it would be even more fiddly if you have the original bulkhead.
The position they are in suits me being 6FT, not sure how a shorter person would find the very elevated position.

Save yourself the money and just mount your seat frame on 21x41mm unistrut. Doddle You can just see it sticking out from under seat

Are these the mud 4x4 rails. I fitted these on my defender and am very happy with them. They were fitted quickly and easily.

+1 for the Mud Rails - cheaper and an easy fit compared to the Exmoor trim ones.

I'm 6'5" too adn keep looking at these/mud rails, Excuse me if this is a daft question but do the tops of your legs rub on the bottom of the wheel with these fitted?

Pearce_Oldskool said:

I'm 6'5" too adn keep looking at these/mud rails, Excuse me if this is a daft question but do the tops of your legs rub on the bottom of the wheel with these fitted?

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I've changed my steering wheel to a smaller one so not sure if this is a factor.I keep the seat quite upright to get as much room as possible.I was far to cramped without them.