EPB Problem Freelander 2 SD4 Auto

Hi folks. Wonder if anyone can point me in the right direction here.

Got a 2.2 diesel automatic and so far it has behaved impeccably with one minor exception:
With the gearbox in drive, stopped at traffic lights, I often put the EPB on, so that the brake lights don't dazzle those behind. It has just started jerking forward quite sharply when I release the brake pedal. The EPB still holds but it is worrying - a) that it will not hold and send me into the car in front and b) that it will get worse. And of course, the complicating factor is that it is intermittent. I haven't yet established whether it is related to cold or hot running but most of the time I don't have the aircon on so there's not much load on the engine.
The problem only occurs when I am stationary and have just engaged the EPB and just when I lift my foot off the brake pedal. No problems with it auto-releasing when I want to pull away.
I would greatly appreciate any suggestions as to what might be causing it. It was serviced in Feb but hasn't had a lot of running since then - I get out in it 2-3 times/week at the moment.

Does anyone have any ideas what might be causing this.

Thanks in advance.

When was the gearbox fluid changed? If its not been done and its more than 75k miles, then the fluid is past it.
When you sit at idle with the brakes on, the gearbox module (TCM) will disconnect the gear, so as to improve emissions and MPG.
As you remove the brake to pull away, the TCM re-engages the gear, which is likely what you are feeling.
The first remedy for rough gear engagement is a fluid change.
I suspect the parking brake is fine, unless you can feel it dragging?

Oh and it's best to leave the climate control on auto all the time, as turning off the AC will cause seal deterioration, fluid loss and eventually AC pump failure.

Nodge68 said:

When was the gearbox fluid changed? If its not been done and its more than 75k miles, then the fluid is past it.
When you sit at idle with the brakes on, the gearbox module (TCM) will disconnect the gear, so as to improve emissions and MPG.
As you remove the brake to pull away, the TCM re-engages the gear, which is likely what you are feeling.
The first remedy for rough gear engagement is a fluid change.
I suspect the parking brake is fine, unless you can feel it dragging?

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Thanks for all that info. I'll call the garage tomorrow and ask about the gearbox fluid. It's got 72k miles on the clock so I doubt you're wide of the mark. The only thing is that it's not really the engagement of the gear, it's just that second after I pull the OPB switch having stopped and I release the foot brake whilst waiting for the lights to change, it jerks forward, sometimes quite sharply then stops confirming that the EPB has held. When I want to move off, I just gently apply the throttle and it pulls away smoothly. The first couple of times it did this, I stamped back on the brake as I thought it hadn't held. Seems it had though...
Appreciate your advice on the AC too. I suppose it won't affect the fuel economy much any no-one buys a Landy for that!!

Thanks again.

BigAl2186 said:

I'll call the garage tomorrow and ask about the gearbox fluid. It's got 72k miles on the clock so I doubt you're wide of the mark.

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At 72k, it's definitely worth having all the fluids changed (gearbox, Haldex, rear diff, and PTU) as they won't be doing what they should, with expensive damage as a result. LR suggested 150k for all fluids, but most components fail long before this, probably due to the stupidly long change interval.

BigAl2186 said:

I doubt you're wide of the mark.

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I could be, as it's almost impossible to determine faults without seeing it, with these really complicated vehicles.

BigAl2186 said:

The only thing is that it's not really the engagement of the gear, it's just that second after I pull the OPB switch having stopped and I release the foot brake whilst waiting for the lights to change, it jerks forward, sometimes quite sharply then stops confirming that the EPB has held.

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That does sound gearbox related.
When you are sitting at idle, with your foot on the brake, the gearbox control valve for first gear is open, which effectively disconnects the drive to the wheels. This is done to reduce emissions, like a said.
As you release the foot brake from the brake, the TCM locks the gear back in, which can produce a sudden surge of torque, making the vehicle feel like its moving forward, but it's likely not the wheels turning as such, it's probably just the suspension bushes shifting under the changing load condition.

BigAl2186 said:

The first couple of times it did this, I stamped back on the brake as I thought it hadn't held. Seems it had though..

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When a vehicle doesn't behave as expected, it can be a bit unnerving.

You can test the EBP by applying it while the vehicle is creeping really slowly, like it's hardly moving. In this condition, pulling the EPB lever should result in sudden sharp stop, which would confirm it's working fine.
If you're moving too fast for the EPB to apply, you'll get a warning, in which case you release the lever, and try it at a slower speed.

BigAl2186 said:

Appreciate your advice on the AC too. I suppose it won't affect the fuel economy much any no-one buys a Landy for that!!

Click to expand...

The AC system on the FL2 is a variable capacity pump design, so under low AC requirements, the pump isn't using much power at all, which aids economy massively.
The FL2 AC will reduce MPG by 1 or 2%, which is nothing, but repairs to it are expensive, so your 1 or 2% fuel saving isn't a saving at all.
So just leave it on auto mode, and let the computer sort it out for you.

Nodge68 said:

At 72k, it's definitely worth having all the fluids changed (gearbox, Haldex, rear diff, and PTU) as they won't be doing what they should, with expensive damage as a result. LR suggested 150k for all fluids, but most components fail long before this, probably due to the stupidly long change interval.

I could be, as it's almost impossible to determine faults without seeing it, with these really complicated vehicles.

That does sound gearbox related.
When you are sitting at idle, with your foot on the brake, the gearbox control valve for first gear is open, which effectively disconnects the drive to the wheels. This is done to reduce emissions, like a said.
As you release the foot brake from the brake, the TCM locks the gear back in, which can produce a sudden surge of torque, making the vehicle feel like its moving forward, but it's likely not the wheels turning as such, it's probably just the suspension bushes shifting under the changing load condition.


When a vehicle doesn't behave as expected, it can be a bit unnerving.

You can test the EBP by applying it while the vehicle is creeping really slowly, like it's hardly moving. In this condition, pulling the EPB lever should result in sudden sharp stop, which would confirm it's working fine.
If you're moving too fast for the EPB to apply, you'll get a warning, in which case you release the lever, and try it at a slower speed.


The AC system on the FL2 is a variable capacity pump design, so under low AC requirements, the pump isn't using much power at all, which aids economy massively.
The FL2 AC will reduce MPG by 1 or 2%, which is nothing, but repairs to it are expensive, so your 1 or 2% fuel saving isn't a saving at all.
So just leave it on auto mode, and let the computer sort it out for you.

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Thanks again for a superbly comprehensive reply. I now understand much more of the nature of what I'm dealing with.
I've just got off the phone to the garage & am waiting for them to let me know what their mechanics say and to have a look at the service history. If, as you say, the service interval is 150k then these fluids will not have been changes so I will arrange for that to be done anyway - far better to have that done now rather than have them cause a much more expensive problem later.
AC is now on Auto!
I am very much obliged to you. Cheers.

BigAl2186 said:

If, as you say, the service interval is 150k then these fluids will not have been changes so I will arrange for that to be done anyway

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You're welcome.
The LR service schedule for these important and hard working components is 150k or 10 years, which is ridiculously long.
The PTU, Haldex and rear diff are all know to fail, often before 100k miles, which suggests the fluids aren't doing their job, long before the LR change interval.
Just for reference, the same Haldex unit in a VW has a 40k or 3 year fluid/filter change interval.

It's well worth spending the money on some post problem maintenance, as replacement of any of the above components will be many times the cost of timely fluid changes.