engine will not start after removing battery

hello can anyone help? I disconnected the battery in my Freelander 1 2l diesel to do some welding work. When I reconnected the car won't start. The heater coil doesn't come up on the dash when ignition is turned on. Could not hear power going to the diesel pump. Changed the ECU the car will turn over but cuts out after approx 10 secs and I can hear power to the diesel pump. I bought a Landrover Terrafirma model no TF930 but this will not read the ECU. The battery is fully charged. I have read some threads on here and tried some of the suggestions but to no avail. I have cleaned all the terminals and all are good. I have checked fuses and relays and all seem in good order. Can anybody offer anymore advice?

Have you locked and unlocked to reset the immobiliser, or check / reset the collision switch

where were you welding and how did you earth it?

wondering if you fried something

in the future i'd leave the battery on but make sure the earth clamp is close to your welds AND on the same bit of metal.

I agree, sounds like you have fried something like a sensor.
Without being able to read ecu it will be a devil to trace. Don't know why your kit can't read it, maybe find a garage that can.
As far as I am aware ecu and immobilizer must be synced/reprogrammed together

can't u fry ur alternater if it's not disconnected ???

as the others have said sounds like you've fried something , as you've used the chassis as an earth may have fried electrical components

with fitting a new main ecu , as Clark has said will require recoding due to it being new and re synced with ur key and fob, depending on year

wonder if a hawkeye could possibly read codes ??

hope u get on ok, as the reader can't read codes maybe a testbook at ur main dealer may be required

many thanks to everybody for advice. Wasn't aware there was a collision reset button. Will try that . Welding was done on nearside wishbone and earth was connected to the wishbone. Did wonder whether had fried something so changed the ECU. Looking like having to take to main dealer for ECU syncing.

Brendan08 said:

. Looking like having to take to main dealer for ECU syncing.

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Think that's your best bet. Take your old ecu with you.
All the best

hello well i talked to my landrover main dealer and they have told me that they can not sync the second hand ecu to the immobilizer they can only do it with a new one at the cost of £1400.00+vat so i have been wondering can you disconnect or bypass the immobilizer any advice would be appreciated im starting to pull my hair out now lol

Brendan08 said:

hello well i talked to my landrover main dealer and they have told me that they can not sync the second hand ecu to the immobilizer they can only do it with a new one at the cost of £1400.00+vat so i have been wondering can you disconnect or bypass the immobilizer any advice would be appreciated im starting to pull my hair out now lol

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You can't remove the immobiliser code from the ECU. You should be able to replace both the engine ECU, alarm ECU and key chip/ fob from the same doner vehicle.
However I'd try the old ECU again first. A good tip for next time would be remove a wishbone before welding it.

the coil on the dash may not light up because it is too warm.

gstuart said:

can't u fry ur alternater if it's not disconnected ???

as the others have said sounds like you've fried something , as you've used the chassis as an earth may have fried electrical components

with fitting a new main ecu , as Clark has said will require recoding due to it being new and re synced with ur key and fob, depending on year

wonder if a hawkeye could possibly read codes ??

hope u get on ok, as the reader can't read codes maybe a testbook at ur main dealer may be required

Click to expand...

others think leaving it in helps to dampen down spikes. who knows!

What engine do you have - L series Rover or Td4 BMW?

think the dealer is just being awkward , many have reported back where some are helpful and others just want to rip u off

a new ecu is £400 so don't know where they get them figures from

im not sure and others will hopefully put me right but i believe ur year of hippo won't have the transponder chip in the key ,

also im under the impression the orginal ecu will accept up to 10 x codes, that once full I think then it requires a new ecu but some have said they can be overwritten by a testbook

may I ask where abouts in the uk are u plse

as the others have said u can go to a breakers

after the engine stops turning over after 10 seconds , have u tested to see if there is a 12 volt supply on the back of the starter motor , or maybe the immobilser is cutting in due to loosing it's code

does the key fob do anything in the way of locking , unlocking the car, does the red led on the dashboard show up

wonder if a hawkeye could possibly read any codes

ur don't have to go to a main dealer , there are other garages with a testbook or similar that can recode it

personally I think the main ecu has been cleared of the synchronisation that allows the thatcham alarm to accept starting

being a 99 model is that the L series engine plse

try not to pull ur hair out and there's plenty of us here to guide u step by step so ur not on ur own , lol

trax said:

others think leaving it in helps to dampen down spikes. who knows!

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agree in that im not 100 percent sure either with regards what precautions to take with welding

but was always advised to disconnect the part if possible from the car, or if not possible , removing battery , removing all earth clamps and unplugging all main ecu, alternators, starters etc

know it's not the same but came across many boilers that after lightening fried the main pcb boards and had to be replaced due to the power spike within the mains electrics

once again thanks for all the advice

Brendan 08,
Is your ECU problem solved ? Really appreciate if you can share with me.
Got similar problem with yours, mine is 110 SW defender model 2011 with Puma engine, only running for a few seconds after start.
The dealer told me to buy a new Immobilizer ECU but unfortunately it is not available in Indonesia for time being.
Anyone can help me out ? or any supplier can sell the ECU to Indonesia ? please let me know.

Cheers,
Marvel Roen