Engine strip down.

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retneprac

retneprac

Well-Known Member
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Does a list of the minimum you should do in terms of replacement parts if your going to take the lump out for a piston ring change?

Cheers in advance!
 
I think hes asking for a list of stuff (the minimum) that needs changing for a piston ring change.

list:
head gasket
head bolts
sump gasket of some sort
piston rings
new oil and filter
antifreeze
I would say big ends while your doing it, but you want the minimum.

that's all i can think of for now
 
Didnt take the lump out in the end. Although heads off, sump off, and pistons out, pots 2 & 3 very oily, shells look good for 24 years old tho, off to the local LR store with piston in hand! Martin and Graham can advise! Little scoring in the pots, all seems as you would expect for 115K over 24 years! Swirl chambers have little cracks, normal says Mr Haynes! Whats the norm for sump gaskets? Old one is 5mm dense rubber.
 
How easy is it to fit new swirl chambers?

The indi LR garage recommend a set of Cords rings, anyone had any experience of them?

Cheers All for your comments.
 
cord rings are a little harder to fit than std you need to squeeze them to see which way they are angled to fit right way up on piston,ive never found them to work that succesfully on lr engines and can accelerate bore wear ,hot spots or swirl chembers tap in with soft hammer or use block of wood ,tap out with long punch through injector hole ,they should sit 2 thou proud not much more not below ,they get hotter than head and remain that way and shrink during use its clamping force that holds them secure
 
Ok so dumb question time, when setting up the tappets, how do you ensure the 1st valve is fully open (you can tell i've been reading Mr Haynes book)?

Assume its adjust the tappet to push the valve but doesnt that rely on the push rod being at its highest point or did i miss something?
 
number nine method only turn engine clockwise turn over till one vavle reaches fully open youll see it briefly stop moving in relation to turning engine over adjust what ever valve makes up nine so if 4 down fully adjust 5,8 down adjust 1 ,3 down adjust 6 etc if you think youve gone too far go on and do next one mark each rocker after adjusting
 
Check the bores for ovality, no point in putting new rings if the rings won't seal properly. Any more than about 2.5 thou ovality and your looking at a rebore + pistons
 
Are Vernier calipers good enough to measure down to 2.5 thou, (whats that in metric?)

Still waiting for my Cords rings!

Hardest part so far, removing the sump gasket, hadnt been off in the whole time I've owned it, 15 years! had to get the grinder out!
 
So opened up the de-coke set, 2 types of valve stem oil seals, existing one are all the same with the spring round the top, new ones are, 4 with the spring at the top and 4 without but slighly different shaped rubber, has 4 small ridges/bars equally spaced on the outer edge.

Anyone know what goes where?

Cheers.
 
So the Cords rings arrived today, fitted all and put the pistons back in, then spent the afternoon assembling all the other bits with everything back in place.

Did as the book said, turned it over with fuel cut off, then with the fuel on, started up a treat, couple of test drives, checked the fluids, smokey as all the oils and ****e burned off, now almost stopped smoking!

Slightly longer test drive tomorrrow, Cornwall here we come, slowly of course, plenty of stops and fluid/leak checking!
 
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