Disco 2 Engine Reving when you try to exhilarate.

Hi Guys,

Seeking a little help in diagnosing a problem.

I have just picked up a rather clean Discovery 2 TD5, the basics are that the car drives well, brakes well, nothing at all wrong with it, the only real mods that I can see are the EGR valve has been replaced with the straight tube, and the rear air shocks have been replaced with springs.The car has been well looked after, the underneath is clean and has no signs of rust or holes, but its been wax-Oiled and I cannot see any patches, It comes with a full service history with nothing scary in it, but it does have a minor problem.

It accelerates fine as long as you don't try and floor the car, I have had it up to 90 on our small roads and it drives and brakes great, but if you are say doing 30-40 and then you put your foot down to overtake a car, it just kind of revs, but its like a pulsing, as in foot on - foot off - foot on - foot off, etc, and whilst it does accelerate its not as fast as it should be because of this pulsing, If I accelerate very slowly it has no problems at all.

The car has done 83,000 miles so kind of run in, it came with a NanoCom Diagnostics tool, but I cannot get it to do anything except play notes when I connect it to a computer, I plugged in a iCarSoft LR v2 to the car and it found 8 modules and no errors at all, I have no warning lights when this problem occurs and as stated, besides this problem the car seems great.

Has anyone got any ideas as to what I could check, any help would be very much appreciated.

James

Discos don’t accelerate in an exhilarating manner normally.
Is it an auto? Could be several issues relating to sensors or boost leak/collapsed hose etc... plug in the nanocom and get it working. Check under bonnet intake hoses

Yes, sorry should have said, YES it is an Auto...

I was given a Nanocom with the car but cannot get it to do anything, its an early model with no display, meant to work with a laptop, tried to contact support but you need an ID which I cannot get, so it looks like this will be going in the bin.

I have the iCarSoft LR v2 unit and that cannot find any DTC's relating to anything, I did look at the hoses and all over the car but really could not see anything amiss, it looks clean and well looked after, but as stated it does have this one minor problem, I did not mean by the way that it was accelerator without me wanting it too, its just when you want to go faster (i.e. overtake someone), and you put your foot down, it has this strange reaction, of sounding like you are pumping the accelerator but the car does not react it stays at the same speed, but if I do this gradually, it does accelerate as you would expect.

Sorry for the sleeping mistakes, don't read what I type as quite dyslexic - Opps!

Aside from your exhilarating sleeping mistakes, it sounds like it's overboosting. Wind the turbo actuator rod back a couple of threads (so more are showing). There should be 12-13 threads normally. You need to loosen the little lock nut then turn the knurled cylinder towards the turbo, then tighten up the lock nut again.

Once you stop, turn off the ignition, remove key then put it back in and start it again, does it change? I.e. does it drive normally until you ask it to really accelerate or go fast up a hill?

What year is the vehicle?

Air flow meter is at fault most likely mine does exactly the same when it needs one I've had mine 15yrs so its had a couple

triggersbroom said:

Air flow meter is at fault most likely mine does exactly the same when it needs one I've had mine 15yrs so its had a couple

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That's why i asked about the year cos that "MAF cut-out" syndrome is valid only for Eu3 engines... unless it's Eu2 which still has the EGR

sierrafery said:

That's why i asked about the year cos that "MAF cut-out" syndrome is valid only for Eu3 engines... unless it's Eu2 which still has the EGR

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In which case, coudn't he just disconnect the MAF and see if that improved things?

Thanks for all the comments, giving me loads to go on...

Discovery 2 2001 TD5 Automatic, sorry for missing this out...

Will the car run OK with the MAF taken out? I am hoping that this is not the fault, they are bloody expensive and it would have to wait till after christmas before I could afford one of these.

EGR has been removed and blanking kit and straight thou adaptor installed.

Was going to order the Westegate Control Unit to see if this would fix it (only £25 for OEM),

once Maf is disconnected ECM runs the vehicle on a map based on average normal reading from the non-existent MAF which is better than a ferked up MAF. So don't worry about it!

Thanks for the info, will give it a go once the bloody weather gives me a brake.

Good for you, have fun!

MD0MDI said:

Thanks for the info, will give it a go once the bloody weather gives me a brake.

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I fitted a genuine LR MAF to my TD5 a few months ago and I'd be happy to meet up and swap it on to your car for a test drive if you want.
Although if you do find that it drives better with yours disconnected, then that will most likely be the problem.
Buying an aftermarket one is a gamble, and I think most on here would say to buy genuine when it comes to the MAF, expensive as they are.

+1 ^^^

Thanks for the kind offer, if you are happy to then I would appreciate the help.

PM sent

It's an EU2 engine with EGR removed. The MAF is pretty much surplus to requirements.
I'm still going with overboost.
Either that or it's a fuel starvation issue. Start simple and change the fuel filter.

I had Jason call round today with his Nanocom and a spare MAF filter, after doing some driving and looking at the live readings from the Nanocom we found my MAF was indeed faulty, so he kindly let me have his spare one for a very reasonable cost, after playing around we could not replicate the problem so it’s hopefully fixed, big thanks to Jason and all the others on this forum, now my favourite site!

Cheers guys.

Brilliant news