Engine oil

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You need to know what grade it is. Here is an example if why.
When I fitted the replacement engine into my Freelander I used a cheap 20w50 as an engine flush. The plan was to start her up from cold and run her up to temp over 3 or 4 days just to give it a good clean. On the second and third day the amount of blue smoke the engine produced just after the cold start for a good 30 seconds made me think the valve guide oil seals were shot!! I thought I'd put the correct oil in and keep an eye on the smoking. You wouldn't believe that with the correct oil there is no smoke!! So the thick 20w50 clearly isn't suitable for a KV6.
 
Nodge68 said:
You need to know what grade it is. Here is an example if why.
When I fitted the replacement engine into my Freelander I used a cheap 20w50 as an engine flush. The plan was to start her up from cold and run her up to temp over 3 or 4 days just to give it a good clean. On the second and third day the amount of blue smoke the engine produced just after the cold start for a good 30 seconds made me think the valve guide oil seals were shot!! I thought I'd put the correct oil in and keep an eye on the smoking. You wouldn't believe that with the correct oil there is no smoke!! So the thick 20w50 clearly isn't suitable for a KV6.
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I hear that it's pretty much 10w/30, which I believe would b ok?
 
10w-30 would be just fine.

Nodge's example of 20w-50 being too heavy is right - in my opinion even 10w-40 would be too thick - especially for wintertime.

I'm even running 5w-30 right now and the 10w-30 in the summer.

A heavy oil would also be more likely to choke up the pcv if anyone is still using the original LR tampon job. Another reason for getting the BMW upgrade cyclone-vortex bit.

Singvogel. :cool2:
 
we are old enough to no better SV , i had a young lad come over to my house asking if i could spare him any oil I asked what grade and he looked at me as if to say Grade whats that all about.
 
Singvogel said:
10w-30 would be just fine.

Nodge's example of 20w-50 being too heavy is right - in my opinion even 10w-40 would be too thick - especially for wintertime.

I'm even running 5w-30 right now and the 10w-30 in the summer.

A heavy oil would also be more likely to choke up the pcv if anyone is still using the original LR tampon job. Another reason for getting the BMW upgrade cyclone-vortex bit.

Singvogel. :cool2:
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You've got me thinking here - I'm on 10W40 and BMW cyclone mod. But sometime after I did it (early August) she started using oil at the rate of about 1/2 litre every 300 miles. I can't remember exactly when the oil burning increased but sometime after that.
Done 106k miles so thought 10W40 would be better. (also heavy right foot and synergy 2 set to 10 setting/eco mode) But that amount of oil burn do you think it's worth a shot at 5w30 before I look elsewhere?
 
chris2000 said:
You've got me thinking here - I'm on 10W40 and BMW cyclone mod. But sometime after I did it (early August) she started using oil at the rate of about 1/2 litre every 300 miles. I can't remember exactly when the oil burning increased but sometime after that.
Done 106k miles so thought 10W40 would be better. (also heavy right foot and synergy 2 set to 10 setting/eco mode) But that amount of oil burn do you think it's worth a shot at 5w30 before I look elsewhere?
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I hardly use any oil at all between changes - on a long fast, fully loaded trip (2500 miles in 3 or 4 days) I might need 1/2 litre top up before I turn for home. Synergy 2a set on 8

If I were you I'd try the 5w-30 or 10w-30 and see how it goes.

SV
 
I would agree with Singvogel.

If its got a variable vane Turbo,like the TD4 ,use 5w 30w Fully Synthetic.

Even though its pricy its still cheaper than filling the tank with diesel.and is cheap maintenance.Mine uses no oil between services and its done 143,000 miles.
Full Synthetic seems to keep the gum deposits down and I sure the engine runs better.

The wifes Fabia TDi used to go into shutdown mode when she first got it.
10w 40w semi synthetic had been used,not even a Pumpe Duse oil which it should have.

Oil change later ,no more problems.

Saying all that ,regular oil changes are more important than the oil used and I have stripped engines with carbon particals in the bearings and even seized
piston rings in the grooves due to the lack of same.
 
WHICH VISCOSITY GRADE IS RIGHT FOR YOU?
SAE VISCOSITY GRADE MOTOR OIL: 5W-30
Temperature Conditions: Below 0° F
Description: Provides excellent fuel economy and low temperature performance in most late-model automobiles. Especially recommended for new cars.
SAE VISCOSITY GRADE MOTOR OIL: 10W-30
Temperature Conditions: Above 0° F
Description: Most frequently recommended motor oil viscosity grade for most automobile engines, including high-performance multivalve engines and turbo-charged engines.
SAE VISCOSITY GRADE MOTOR OIL: 10W-40
Temperature Conditions: Above 0° F
Description: The first multigrade introduced. A good choice for controlling engine wear and preventing oil breakdown from oxidation. Note: Always check your owner's manual or warranty requirements before using this grade.
SAE VISCOSITY GRADE MOTOR OIL: 20W-50
Temperature Conditions: Above 20° F
Description: Provides maximum protection for high-performance, high-RPM racing engines. Excellent choice for high temperature and heavy loads such as driving in the desert or towing a trailer at high speeds for long periods of time.
SAE VISCOSITY GRADE MOTOR OIL: SAE 30 & SAE 40
Temperature Conditions: Above 40° F & Above 60° F
Description: For cars and light trucks, where recommended by manufacturers. Not recommended when cold-temperature starting is required.
Note: It is important to consult your vehicle handbook to establish the correct grade for your car and environment.
 
Well got 6 litres of magnatec left and only about 2k since last change but you`ve convinced me to change it anyway. Any particular brand - I`ll be going fully synthetic anyway.
 
webley2000 said:
Saying all that ,regular oil changes are more important than the oil used
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I would disagree. If you buy a decent oil in the first place you can easily exceed the manufacturers service interval if used in average conditions.

I would much rather buy a decent oil and change it every 10k then a cheap one and have to do it every 4k.

There are loads of myths on the internet and down the pub how you have to change your oil every 3-4k or your engine will end up a pile of scrap but its simply not true. I have tested many oils of various qualities over different mileages from 3k up to nearly 15k and these included turbo charged engines used on trackdays and the results showed minimal wear and each oil still had plenty of life left in it. The main killer in diesels is too much soot so its generally a case of there being an issue with the engine rather than the oil itself.

Personally i would buy an oil that meets the spec set out in the owners manual and change at the required intervals :)
 
servbice intervals are lengthened by car manufacturers for commercial reasons and not engines best interest ,if you strip enough engines you will see biggest issue is contaminents in the oil and around the engine ,this causes premateur wear ,i wouldnt think putting over spec oil in and reducing changes was a good thing at all ,
 
I use 0W-30 fully synthetic in my 530d and change according to the manufactures specified interval of 30,000 kms

No probs !
 
jamesmartin said:
servbice intervals are lengthened by car manufacturers for commercial reasons and not engines best interest ,if you strip enough engines you will see biggest issue is contaminents in the oil and around the engine ,this causes premateur wear ,i wouldnt think putting over spec oil in and reducing changes was a good thing at all ,
Click to expand...

Exactly my point.
Manufacturers are having problems now with extended oil servicing.
Oils are much better than they used to be but filters haven`t changed that much.
Its the little carbon bits that cause most of the problem,they get stuck in the bearings and rings and scratch the journals and the cylinder bores.
Carbon is hard.
 
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