Engine Disabled

Can this be cleared using diagnostic equipment or do I need the EKA code. I have only bought the car, so dont have the logbook yet, meaning I cant obtain them from the dealer.

Thanks
Barry

Is there a card with the Owners Handbook ? Should have four numbers on it showing the radio and EKA codes. Or you could try contacting the previous owner.
If that fails, phone a LR dealer, ask for the service department and quote the VIN. Tell them you need the EKA and Radio codes. Many dealers will give you the info over the phone but some won't and you may have to phone a few before you strike lucky.
You need specific P38 diagnostics, if you put your location on your profile instead of wanting to be anonymous like so many others on here, there may be someone local who could help.

Thanks for the reply, but I have now found the code. Do I need to do the 4 turns to the left before beginning and should there be any beeps or similar, to let me know I have done it correctly?

Thanks
Barry

BAZ 2780 said:

Thanks for the reply, but I have now found the code. Do I need to do the 4 turns to the left before beginning and should there be any beeps or similar, to let me know I have done it correctly?

Thanks
Barry

Click to expand...

Yes. The side flasher repeaters should flash with each turn

Im assuming it worked as its now running, but the flashers only worked on the locking part of the process.

Can anyone tell me where the breather hoses are located (2.5 DSE), as im assuming thats whats causing the problem (oil coming up from the dipstick) and temp gauge rising.

I drove the car around 250miles when I collected it, it started to run a bit rough and smoke, then cut out and wouldnt start again. Obviously now I have it running again and topped up the oil but I would like to remove the breathers and unclog them or replace if thats not possible, but im unsure where they are located (pictures would be great). Its a 98 on an R plate. Does mine have an EGR valve and if so where is it located?

Thanks for the help so far Irishrover.

Barry

Probably no EGR, the main breather is from the cam cover at the front above the turbo to the intake. If it overheated, look at the viscous fan, stat, water pump and RAD. If it's still overheats with all those checked OK then it's likely to be a cracked head.
Download RAVE and get the free EAS software and cable (I can supply)

It didnt overheat, but when I had it running today I noticed the temp gauge was getting high, so I shut it off. I assumed that because the oil breather is clogged oil temps would be getting hot, can you please explain why you think there are issues with the cooling system or even worse a cracked head?

Is this the only breather on the car, and where can I buy a replacement and roughly how much?

How much for the cable, and will the software allow me to do anything, other than suspension.

Thanks
Barry

BAZ 2780 said:

It didnt overheat, but when I had it running today I noticed the temp gauge was getting high, so I shut it off. I assumed that because the oil breather is clogged oil temps would be getting hot, can you please explain why you think there are issues with the cooling system or even worse a cracked head?

Is this the only breather on the car, and where can I buy a replacement and roughly how much?

How much for the cable, and will the software allow me to do anything, other than suspension.

Thanks
Barry

Click to expand...

Oil breather only does one thing relives crank case pressures There is air in your oil pan and when it gets warm it expands and with the counter weights on the crank shaft slapping oil it builds up a little pressure, and that is what the oil breather is for. they are easy to clean with carb cleaner and lp air