Engine cuts out -diesel P38

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kapilamuni

Active Member
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550
Hi,
Yesterday while moving at around 50KMPH , suddenly engine cut out .Managed to coast to the road side. dash message said 'gearbox fault'. Tried the starter but appeared half dead battery with dim dash lights.
. I was scared that the timing chains gave up. So got a car carrier and sent RR home.
In the evening when I returned from office, noticed that dash lights look okay when ignition on and battery voltage is at 12.4v , measured direct. Anyway did not try to start. Diagnostics say nothing new. Checked the timing chain through the oil filler but nothing visible.
Is there a way to check the bottom chain? guess that I need to remove the VC fan & shroud and put a ring spanner on to crank bolt and turn.
Your views/ideas please.
 
Thanks.
Rotating the crank with a spanner should reveal if the bottom chain is intact or
is it the only way to check?
 
kapilamuni said:
Thanks.
Rotating the crank with a spanner should reveal if the bottom chain is intact or
is it the only way to check?
Click to expand...

Only way, until you can turn the engine clockwise two complete revolutions without a foul don't even think about using the starter. Also if the quantity servo fuel feedback loses contact with the ECU, the ECU will shut the engine down.
 
Checked, no EDC faults except my car,s usual fault on injection timing out of range and glow plug faults.
It could probably be the timing chain. Im going to take leave and check it tmrow
 
Yes. I got all the spares and waiting for xmas holidays to do the chains.
If its the chains , its a killer.
I remember you told me several times about the chains as indicated by timing modulation being too high and no space to adjust the inj pump any more.
 
kapilamuni said:
Yes. I got all the spares and waiting for xmas holidays to do the chains.
If its the chains , its a killer.
I remember you told me several times about the chains as indicated by timing modulation being too high and no space to adjust the inj pump any more.
Click to expand...

That is a sure indicator that the bottom chain was stretched far to much. I did tell you. Hope it's not that though.
 
Good news guys.
Nanocom didnt give any faults. Checked the chains by rotating the crank with a spanner. While doing so looked at the top chain through oil filler. So decided that chains are intact. Feel so lucky.
Tried to start but the battery gave away after 3 times. It sounded like no fuel. Checked the intank pump at the filter input, it was ok. Then assumed the stop solonoid must be the item. Tried with external power supply but no clicking. Removed internal plunger and refitted.
Then cranked with jumper from my other car. Voila she fired up immediately:p:p:p.
Wonder why Nanocom could not identify the fault.
Anyway Im going to change the timing chains as I have already removed few parts. Tommorrow will start.
Now to buy a socket for the head bolts, what size is it?
Can i change the inj pump oil seal while I have the front removed? I dont want to take the pump out.

Thanks Wammers for he support and advise.
 
kapilamuni said:
Good news guys.
Nanocom didnt give any faults. Checked the chains by rotating the crank with a spanner. While doing so looked at the top chain through oil filler. So decided that chains are intact. Feel so lucky.
Tried to start but the battery gave away after 3 times. It sounded like no fuel. Checked the intank pump at the filter input, it was ok. Then assumed the stop solonoid must be the item. Tried with external power supply but no clicking. Removed internal plunger and refitted.
Then cranked with jumper from my other car. Voila she fired up immediately:p:p:p.
Wonder why Nanocom could not identify the fault.
Anyway Im going to change the timing chains as I have already removed few parts. Tommorrow will start.
Now to buy a socket for the head bolts, what size is it?
Can i change the inj pump oil seal while I have the front removed? I dont want to take the pump out.

Thanks Wammers for he support and advise.
Click to expand...

Good news then. Changed an head last year old bolts were one size, and new ones another size, so you may need more than one socket. Better getting a set they will come in handy for other things. If you mean the O'ring that seals the injection pump to the front case yes easy job but you will have to remove pump. Should be in top end gasket set. If you mean the oil seal in front of injection pump can't be changed unless pump is stripped down. You really don't want to be doing that. You can power stop valve with Nanocom and just listen for click. Fit a new stop valve, engine is normally stopped by quantity servo cutting fuel, if that fails stop valve is backup to shut engine down. You don't want to be running car without it working.
 
Then I better buy a set. I want to change the seal at the front cover.
Can't I do it if I remove sprockets set from the inj pump without taking out the pump?
Also, do I have to set NO.1 TDC with CAM and insert special tool into flywheel prior to removing the crankshaft bolt?

I'll not run the car until the repairs are done and will get a stop solenoid then.
 
kapilamuni said:
Then I better buy a set. I want to change the seal at the front cover.
Can't I do it if I remove sprockets set from the inj pump without taking out the pump?
Also, do I have to set NO.1 TDC with CAM and insert special tool into flywheel prior to removing the crankshaft bolt?

I'll not run the car until the repairs are done and will get a stop solenoid then.
Click to expand...

You need a special tool to hold the crank in position before you attempt to remove the crank bolt. They are seriously tight. You will also need it to hold the crank when it is tightened up. And an angle gauge. Needs to be torqued and angle tightened properly or you may lose the oil pump drive. Angle gauge will also be needed for head bolts. You should have a new front cover gasket, when you reassemble front cover cut out portion that seals oil pump. Under no circumstances remove the oil pump unless you have the special tool to centralise it. Engine needs to be locked at TDC number one firing to fit new chains. Set it at that before you remove the head so cam is in correct position for reassembly. Don't rely on crank locking pin to hold engine whilst undoing or refitting crank bolt.
 
Or if you want to be reckless but get 'er done, get a knuckle bar with socket on crank, position it under the chassis, crank engine and quickly release. You either crack off the bolt or break the knuckle in your bar. You can remove the pulley, then replace the bolt to find TDC before stripping down. Not saying I do this because it is slightly dangerous and if the boss saw us doing it he'd flip his ****... but I know it works. ;)
 
Got all the gaskets , chains and seals. Im going to prepare the special tool for crank bolt from an old crank pulley which is lying about. Taking the centre part and welding a handle is my idea. Given it to the latheshop n will get it tommorrow. Im going to set TDC and lock the flywheel and then remove the crank bolt. Hopefully, crank sproket shold be in good enough condition as I could not buy a new one.
Is the head very heavy, Im familiar with Toyota heads but this 6 cylinder head looks very chunky.
 
kapilamuni said:
Got all the gaskets , chains and seals. Im going to prepare the special tool for crank bolt from an old crank pulley which is lying about. Taking the centre part and welding a handle is my idea. Given it to the latheshop n will get it tommorrow. Im going to set TDC and lock the flywheel and then remove the crank bolt. Hopefully, crank sproket shold be in good enough condition as I could not buy a new one.
Is the head very heavy, Im familiar with Toyota heads but this 6 cylinder head looks very chunky.
Click to expand...

The head is fairly heavy. If you remove it with cam in position there will be a couple of valves partially open . Once you have disengaged the two locators don't slide it sideways or you may bend them. Same thing when it is replaced if cam is on it. A couple of pieces of 12mm dowel placed across the block to rest it on for positioning is a good move. When in position start a couple head bolts (the rear R/H one has to be fitted with head or you can't get it in) then lift a little to remove dowels one at a time and let it settle into position.
 
The tool I , made from centre section of used crank pulley.
image.jpeg image.jpg
 
Just to throw in an experience of mine... I had a very similar experience with the engine cutting out on the motorway. re occurred a few times which was scary and unpredictable. Turns out it was a worn fuel injection pump. I did a basic fix by installing a non return valve just before the injection pump and running the vehicle in "Sport" mode (Advanced fuelling from the lift pump) which helped maintain the fuel pressure until I was able to get the pump refurbished, which corrected the problem entirely.

Like I say, similar symptoms and no codes brought up by the ECU. Just food for thought.
 
Thanks for the info Retrospaceman,( may be useful in the near future). But mine was due to stop solenoid playing dead.

I want to remove the cam shaft before cyl -head and to attend the valve stem oil seals and to clean built up
under valves. But RAVE speaks of a special tool and does not say anything about the sequence of removal of bolts.
Your comments please.
 
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