electric window problem

I have a 300tdi, I am having problems with my passenger door electric window, swith is ok, put it on another window, removed motor and it works fine out of mechanism, put it back in and window works 2 or 3 times then goes up and wont come down, any one had this problem?

ukamigo said:

I have a 300tdi, I am having problems with my passenger door electric window, swith is ok, put it on another window, removed motor and it works fine out of mechanism, put it back in and window works 2 or 3 times then goes up and wont come down, any one had this problem?

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Could be worn teeth on the quadrant or loose 'rivets' where it attaches to the mechanism making it twist ...

could also be the lift module on its way out mine has died i'm now down to drivers window only. but still rest of my issues are getting sorted so i'll be at that job soon lol

ukamigo said:

I have a 300tdi, I am having problems with my passenger door electric window, swith is ok, put it on another window, removed motor and it works fine out of mechanism, put it back in and window works 2 or 3 times then goes up and wont come down, any one had this problem?

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I had that problem only it was with the rear windows (D1 V8 `94). Would work occasionally, and then stopped.

The problem turned out to be the ECU under/behind the passengers glovebox. I touch soldered the required joints which were dry and hey presto, all worked and has done ever since. Don`t know if the front windows are that same ECU but I`d imagine they are, so you`ll have to find exactly what bit of the circuit but when you do, and it isn`t burned out, just touch a solder iron on to suspect joints carefully.

Best of luck

I had a gremlin ,, some windows would go up some down ,,clock would stop radio turn on and off ,,, real casper the ghost stuff Anyhow had 2 dry joints in the fuse box under the dash .

It was the 2 solder joints that look sus at the top right

I wonder if there's a way to stop these solder joint from drying out in the first place ??

A higher standard from the operative doing the soldering in the first place, but then that's an old school method of soldering circuit boards and the problem is a batch issue as some have this problem some don't.

Back in the eighties we had a Philips TV and every few months the back was off for me to resolder a joint or two, faults like this don't happen with today's electronic kit its aways a component that pops, so now just replace the board unless the component can be identified such as in a power supply.

Dry joints can be from lots of things like dirty components at manufacture to cold joints ( not heated enough ) when soldered could be the hot cold cycle of operation ,
or just bad workmanship ,
i was lucky that i seen them there was only 2 but still i reheated all the joints on both board ,,,
i havent had a drama with the car since ,,,
i would get fault codes every week for 2 months now i have had not one ..
Fingers crossed

not electrics related, but I'm thinking, is it worth taking off door cards and giving a good spray of silicone to the metal and plastic parts of the window mechanisms, I guess that they must get crusty and dry out over time.

careful spraying the electronics ,, you may bugga stuff up ,, Not even meant to pressure wash the engine bay on them ,,,, water gets into the connectors ,,

They are very fussy as the locks talk back to the computer ,, I didn't notice when i brought my D2 the bloke changer the fuel filter in the back and took off the water indicator on the bottom of the filter and put the D1 screw on ,,, Anyhow after a water crossing i got a fault code for the water in fuel ,,, with light on the dash ,, i thought hang on not even plugged in ,,,, the water made the connection in the circuit and upset it ,, i have now put a dummy plug in so it don't happen

christi1 said:

not electrics related, but I'm thinking, is it worth taking off door cards and giving a good spray of silicone to the metal and plastic parts of the window mechanisms, I guess that they must get crusty and dry out over time.

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Just a dab of grease is all required on the metal window regulators bits and bobs.
The use of a silicone spray has a lot of 'get u out of trouble' uses and used on the glass grooves in the door makes the glass rise and fall a much quicker but it must be silicone, it's an old trick that works.