Electric issues + clueless girl. Help!

gstuart said:

who said u was allowed in the disco section, ur just window shopping again, with ur nose pressed against the glass and dreaming of the day u can buy a real land rover

u know discos rule

Click to expand...

Boll**ks. When I'm having a bad day I go in there to cheer meself up. It's a laugh a minute. Well that's how often some poor sod asks for help.

Hippo said:

Boll**ks. When I'm having a bad day I go in there to cheer meself up. It's a laugh a minute. Well that's how often some poor sod asks for help.

Click to expand...

if u really want to cheer urself up go to the fender section

gstuart said:

if u really want to cheer urself up go to the fender section View attachment 130047

Click to expand...

Yup. I created the most popular fred in there.

Right. I would start with the basics as there appear to be so many systems affected, the likelihood that it is a single "black box" is unlikely. For me the clue is in the slow turning of the engine and intermittent stopping of other systems. It does sound like a bad "major electrical route" cable i.e. Engine to body earth cable, ECU to body earth, alternator / alternator earth fault or battery leads fault. This sort of thing I have seen before as the fault / corroded connection passes just enough current to make stuff run, but when additional systems run / vibration occurs etc, the resistance increases and the varying voltage sends the systems haywire. A good multimeter to check resistance between battery earth and points on the electrical system is a good start as well. Don't rely on a cheap error code reader, as these only read OBD II codes which relate to the engine and emissions and won't help with other body systems. You would be better off getting someone with a Nanocom to have a look, which is tailored to the freelander.

Shortbase said:

Right. I would start with the basics as there appear to be so many systems affected, the likelihood that it is a single "black box" is unlikely. For me the clue is in the slow turning of the engine and intermittent stopping of other systems. It does sound like a bad "major electrical route" cable i.e. Engine to body earth cable, ECU to body earth, alternator / alternator earth fault or battery leads fault. This sort of thing I have seen before as the fault / corroded connection passes just enough current to make stuff run, but when additional systems run / vibration occurs etc, the resistance increases and the varying voltage sends the systems haywire. A good multimeter to check resistance between battery earth and points on the electrical system is a good start as well. Don't rely on a cheap error code reader, as these only read OBD II codes which relate to the engine and emissions and won't help with other body systems. You would be better off getting someone with a Nanocom to have a look, which is tailored to the freelander.

Click to expand...

The IID is more advanced, more up to date and more user friendly than the Nanocom.

Nodge68 said:

The IID is more advanced, more up to date and more user friendly than the Nanocom.

Click to expand...

must also say i've never been more impressed with the iid than anything else , know u have to be very careful with it considering u can reflash engine, transmission ecu's etc

it's got to be nearly as good as land rovers T4 system

wonder how many FL2 owners use iid

ps, don't forget am very grateful to ur good self and thank u for putting me onto the iid ,

gstuart said:

must also say i've never been more impressed with the iid than anything else , know u have to be very careful with it considering u can reflash engine, transmission ecu's etc

it's got to be nearly as good as land rovers T4 system

wonder how many FL2 owners use iid

ps, don't forget am very grateful to ur good self and thank u for putting me onto the iid ,

Click to expand...

May I ask how much did it cost?

I always find it difficult to compare an aftermarket device to T4 as they're often aimed for use in a different way. LR themselves can do everything with their own development kit, much more than what T4 does. They designed the car and have access to everything. T4 doesn't do everything on purpose. It does what LR allow the main dealers to have access to. This includes enough diagnostics to be able to diagnose faults, program updates, codes, historic... etc. LR also do this to limit what a main dealer can do as they need to have a level of control. They're covering the cost of repair under warranty after all... like T4 not being designed to allow the user to ignore emissions, bodge the pdf cycle, disable the abs or give power increases (like chipping). All of which LR would be responsible if they were to allow it. Same as main dealers not being allowed to use aftermarket parts like none LR approved wheels or none LR approved alarms.

Hippo said:

May I ask how much did it cost?

I always find it difficult to compare an aftermarket device to T4 as they're often aimed for use in a different way. LR themselves can do everything with their own development kit, much more than what T4 does. They designed the car and have access to everything. T4 doesn't do everything on purpose. It does what LR allow the main dealers to have access to. This includes enough diagnostics to be able to diagnose faults, program updates, codes, historic... etc. LR also do this to limit what a main dealer can do as they need to have a level of control. They're covering the cost of repair under warranty after all... like T4 not being designed to allow the user to ignore emissions, bodge the pdf cycle, disable the abs or give power increases (like chipping). All of which LR would be responsible if they were to allow it. Same as main dealers not being allowed to use aftermarket parts like none LR approved wheels or none LR approved alarms.

Click to expand...

not at all, is nice discusssing a different subject

has been a fantastic bit of kit and paid for itself very quickly and will put a lot of other diagnostic readers to shame in what it can do

the bluetooth version cost me £420 , from island , use my ipad to display the program

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/integra...411-da6412-da6413-da6414-tfiidbt-p-27303.html

these are the manufacturers and designers , based in Canada and the service is second to none

https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/products/iidtool/

i understand what ur saying regarding the T4 , the iid is an extremely capable diagnosis reader and can't think of a situation where i would need the use of a T4

in my circumstances it will recalibrate the entire suspension system, the iid will even allow u to fit new height sensors and adjust them accordingly

u can reflash the engine, gearbox , transfer etc , with a software update at a cost of £25

i've sent over a copy of my ecus to Gap , they then loaded a software update to my account, i log into my pc , plug the dongle in, update the software onto it, then plug into my obd2 socket to reflash the software that i want updating

this particular instance was to add a software program to my turbo actuator arm, so every time the ign is turned on and off it moves the actuator arm to prevent it from sticking

the company carefully selects what needs updating , all done within 24 x hours

my next software update will be on my gearbox, got to clear the adaptive software first then reflash with the new update , removes the take up slack , or they call it california stop

• Fault reading and clearing

• Locked to 1 VIN as standard, further unlocks available if required,

• Many systems covered including ABS, airbags, audio, BCM, engine, Hevan, instrument pack, LCM, nav, steering angle, TPMS, transfer case and transmission

• Live data, component testing, programming and calibration for EAS - upgrade available for full functionality on other systems coming soon!

• Original ECU settings backed up in an internal memory and available when required

• 3 additional memory slots available to save your favourite settings

• USB port - download future updates as they become available

• Includes all EASControl functions too

the list goes on and on of its capabilities , turning CCF programs on and off

@Nodge68 kindly put me onto this iid and is considerably more technical than i am concerning this iid

hope that may have answered a few questions for u

if u go onto the gap website then put ur vehicle in , it has a menu of everything that it does , clicking on the small arrows shows another sub menu

You can't really compare T4 with an IID. They are designed for a completely different coms protocol. The IID is designed to work on the FL2, D3/4/5, RRS AND FFRR, over CAN BUS. The FL1 uses W BUS or some other older protocol. Gap aren't supporting the older FL1 system.
However the IID is able to as much on the FL2 as T4 can do on the FL1 and probably much much more.
The two units can't be compared directly because they are for different systems.

gstuart said:

not at all, is nice discusssing a different subject

has been a fantastic bit of kit and paid for itself very quickly and will put a lot of other diagnostic readers to shame in what it can do

the bluetooth version cost me £420 , from island , use my ipad to display the program

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/integra...411-da6412-da6413-da6414-tfiidbt-p-27303.html

these are the manufacturers and designers , based in Canada and the service is second to none

https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/products/iidtool/

i understand what ur saying regarding the T4 , the iid is an extremely capable diagnosis reader and can't think of a situation where i would need the use of a T4

in my circumstances it will recalibrate the entire suspension system, the iid will even allow u to fit new height sensors and adjust them accordingly

u can reflash the engine, gearbox , transfer etc , with a software update at a cost of £25

i've sent over a copy of my ecus to Gap , they then loaded a software update to my account, i log into my pc , plug the dongle in, update the software onto it, then plug into my obd2 socket to reflash the software that i want updating

this particular instance was to add a software program to my turbo actuator arm, so every time the ign is turned on and off it moves the actuator arm to prevent it from sticking

the company carefully selects what needs updating , all done within 24 x hours

my next software update will be on my gearbox, got to clear the adaptive software first then reflash with the new update , removes the take up slack , or they call it california stop

• Fault reading and clearing

• Locked to 1 VIN as standard, further unlocks available if required,

• Many systems covered including ABS, airbags, audio, BCM, engine, Hevan, instrument pack, LCM, nav, steering angle, TPMS, transfer case and transmission

• Live data, component testing, programming and calibration for EAS - upgrade available for full functionality on other systems coming soon!

• Original ECU settings backed up in an internal memory and available when required

• 3 additional memory slots available to save your favourite settings

• USB port - download future updates as they become available

• Includes all EASControl functions too

the list goes on and on of its capabilities , turning CCF programs on and off

@Nodge68 kindly put me onto this iid and is considerably more technical than i am concerning this iid

hope that may have answered a few questions for u

Click to expand...

Wow thanks.

Regarding the vin locking... do they also offer the option of being able to use it with any vehicle of a certain type? Like all FL2's or all D4's - each being a different type.

Reason I ask is because I usually find when I'm trying to diagnose a fault I may find something I'm suspicious of and want to know what value/action a working vehicle would give. Like for eggsample a particular voltage when it's cold, warm and on tick over. It's difficult finding this sort of info online as few put it up. Also few have diagnostics to be able to compare their own vehicle if I ask the question. So I end up having to find a donor vehicle to compare to mine. Hence why I filmed mine with me Hawkeye when it's working for comparison at a later date when it's not.

Most peeps don't like the cost of the Hawkeye. I can appreciate that. As a forum we never really got behind it (or any particular unit) as peeps always pushed for cheaper alternatives which promise a lot, but not always deliver. The Hawkeye Total is cheaper in a way as it's now licensed for any LR vehicle, as opposed to charging for additional unlock codes for each type like the normal Hawkeye. I know they've working on adding the latest additions to the LR family so the FL1 and FL2 options haven't had much added in recent years.

Hippo said:

Wow thanks.

Regarding the vin locking... do they also offer the option of being able to use it with any vehicle of a certain type? Like all FL2's or all D4's - each being a different type.

Reason I ask is because I usually find when I'm trying to diagnose a fault I may find something I'm suspicious of and want to know what value/action a working vehicle would give. Like for eggsample a particular voltage when it's cold, warm and on tick over. It's difficult finding this sort of info online as few put it up. Also few have diagnostics to be able to compare their own vehicle if I ask the question. So I end up having to find a donor vehicle to compare to mine. Hence why I filmed mine with me Hawkeye when it's working for comparison at a later date when it's not.

Most peeps don't like the cost of the Hawkeye. I can appreciate that. As a forum we never really got behind it (or any particular unit) as peeps always pushed for cheaper alternatives which promise a lot, but not always deliver. The Hawkeye Total is cheaper in a way as it's now licensed for any LR vehicle, as opposed to charging for additional unlock codes for each type like the normal Hawkeye. I know they've working on adding the latest additions to the LR family so the FL1 and FL2 options haven't had much added in recent years.

Click to expand...

ur very welcome

they are indeed locked to ur vehicle and can read and clear dtcs, read live data of the same model , i.e. for me can read and clear faults of other D3s but can't change anything on that vehicle

i can add a mates D3 for an extra £60 , which would then allow me the full use of the software on his vehicle

live data u can record as ur driving down the road for 5 x mins, company advices the iid shouldn't be left plugged in for a long period of time

hope that helps

Hello!
For some reason I stopped getting notifications regarding this post ☹

Land rover replaced the ECU and suggested I bought a new key (to which I agreed as mine was really broken). I paid the bill and the car seemed to work fine.

I drove away and started to rebuild my relationship with the car as at that point, I hated it for the amount of money it is costing me.

Today, my clutch has gone.

Just been towed to a new garage which has very high reviews so fingers crossed!

Thank you all for your help and suggestions on this

gstuart said:

also just a thought @Rachel jane

do u have any of these faults below , if so, u need an extra earth lead from the battery to gearbox bolt by the starter motor ,

faults ??

Wipers doing single sweep when hitting start button
Engine turning over very very slowly on cold starts ! only just magaes to turn over !
message centre reporting faults on start up
1 engine reduced power
2 HDC disabled
3 ABS fault

Interior fan running speed varying when wipers on and making irritating whine and whistle
Radio changing stations
Autobox sometimes slurring on gearchange, especially 3rd
Autobox sometimes going into lock up at 70 + instead of 60 even on light throttle settings
Windows loosing self park position
air cons fan speed controller continually burning out ! now on my 3rd!
Turbo numerous faults ! but fine since fix
wipers and auto H/lamps law unto themselves !

Click to expand...

I have all of these faults ☹

Rachel jane said:

I have all of these faults ☹

Click to expand...

hi

feel really sorry for u in how much trouble you've been having , have they fitted a secondary earth lead for u as it seems a common issue

why on earth did they have to fit a new ecu

when i had to get new keys for mine i bought a new key off ebay , think it was £60 , £10 to have the blank cut then programmed the key myself , got my own diagnostic reader , many of us buy our own to save the £60 plus in garage fees and pays for itself very quickly

hope u get it resolved , are u using the original garage u bought it from , this surely can't be fit for purpose considering the amount of money you've already spent

there's plenty of us to always offer advice if that's any help to u

The garage I bought it from don't do repairs, they used an external garage to fix the clutch when it went 12 months ago. Because of this I don't have a receipt or an invoice as it under warranty then (thank goodness).

I've taken it to a different garage all together this morning as they've been extremely good with people I know who have been there and always seem to offer the best price around. Once they have established what work needs doing I'll get in touch with the original garage to find out what work they did in August 16.

It's just one thing after another with this car!! Feel as though I have no other option but to get rid this time.

As far as I'm aware, no secondary earth has been fitted so this is something I will get done ASAP, even though the faults seem to have cleared.

Rachel jane said:

The garage I bought it from don't do repairs, they used an external garage to fix the clutch when it went 12 months ago. Because of this I don't have a receipt or an invoice as it under warranty then (thank goodness).

I've taken it to a different garage all together this morning as they've been extremely good with people I know who have been there and always seem to offer the best price around. Once they have established what work needs doing I'll get in touch with the original garage to find out what work they did in August 16.

It's just one thing after another with this car!! Feel as though I have no other option but to get rid this time.

As far as I'm aware, no secondary earth has been fitted so this is something I will get done ASAP, even though the faults seem to have cleared.

Click to expand...

good to hear you've at least found a good garage that won't rip u off, clutch certainally shouldn't go within 12 months

hope u get it resolved , good call also ref the second earth lead as there are many reports concerning this

shame it's been so troublesome to u, they are by contrast very reliable motors

Rachel jane said:

The garage I bought it from don't do repairs, they used an external garage to fix the clutch when it went 12 months ago. Because of this I don't have a receipt or an invoice as it under warranty then (thank goodness).

I've taken it to a different garage all together this morning as they've been extremely good with people I know who have been there and always seem to offer the best price around. Once they have established what work needs doing I'll get in touch with the original garage to find out what work they did in August 16.

It's just one thing after another with this car!! Feel as though I have no other option but to get rid this time.

As far as I'm aware, no secondary earth has been fitted so this is something I will get done ASAP, even though the faults seem to have cleared.

Click to expand...

Hello Rachel,

Bad news and you have certainly been through the mill. Hope everything is resolved quickly for you.