EGR Bypass -> Engine Warning light

Have recently fitted an EGR bypass to my TD4. Have driven it about 5/600 miles with no issues whatsoever until today I noticed the amber engine warning light. It stayed on for a while then dropped out. Obviously fearing the worst, I had a look around online to see that theres a good chance its an emissions sensor on the exhaust system which is now baffled by the increased fumes flying out the tailpipe!
Would like some other opinions on this, should I go and get it checked on a diagnostic to be on the safe side. Can't say I noticed an limp mode situation either, seemed to drive fine.

No sensor on the exhaust of a td4 Freelander. Exhaust content feedback didn't come until long after the Freelander 1 was out of production. Your best bet is to read the trouble code rather than guess the fault.

I see. Seemed like an obvious consequence of fitting the bypass. So EGR blanking is not something that would ever flag up an engine mgmt light on a Freelander 1 then?
Am I stuck with main dealers for reading the codes?.... sounds like many generic readers don't communicate with land rovers.

Assuming the money light is actually linked to the EGR bypass, any chance it wasn't bolted down square onto the gasket? Or perhaps the pipe wasn't clamped down fully?

4x4Dog said:

Assuming the money light is actually linked to the EGR bypass, any chance it wasn't bolted down square onto the gasket? Or perhaps the pipe wasn't clamped down fully?

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Yeah actually it did give me some slight trouble on first fitting but it was more to do with a knackered jubillee clip on the rubber intake pipe into the EGR. I was getting some whistling while acelerating and on inspection it turned out the clip wasnt tightening fully. Fitted a new clip, locked it tight and no more whistle. The blank itself is fitted square yes.
I suppose as you say, it might be tempting but possibly wrong to assume its EGR related. I may just see about getting the code read.
Noob question, but now that the light is out at the moment, if a code reader was hooked up to it, would it show previous errors logged in the past or would it simply show no faults?

Yup. Historical codes will be stored (assuming that the battery doesn't go flat).

It depends on the year of the vehicle as to what code reader will work. If it's after 2004 then a generic OBD2 reader is all that is required. These can be found on Ebay for less than £20. That's less than one session at a dealer with change so spare.
The ECU will store the reason for the original MIL event.

Mine's a 2003, production date being Dec of that year according to vindecoderz. It's pre-facelift anyway, so I suppose that means a dealer job for the code reading.

If your looking for engine codes the icarsoft i930 will read them - it reads and clears my 2001 TD4

Thanks Tiny. Good to know theres another option out there. I can't drop that kind of money on a fault reader though. Will probably ask around first to see if anyone has a compatible device in my locality.

mines a 2003 dec production but it is a facelift does this mean it would use a generic obd2 reader as Nodge68 suggests if not whats the difference between that and an 04 facelift , any info greatly appreciated.
Trev.

tyrefitter said:

mines a 2003 dec production but it is a facelift does this mean it would use a generic obd2 reader as Nodge68 suggests if not whats the difference between that and an 04 facelift , any info greatly appreciated.
Trev.

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Diesel OBD2 compliance didn't become mandatory until some time in 2005 iirc. This means that some vehicles before this were actually compliant but it seems to depend on what ECU version was fitted and when. I've heard of 53 plated facelift Freelanders being OBD2 compliant but also come across 53 plated pre-facelifts that aren't.
Petrol vehicles had to be OBD2 compliant earlier in around 2000. This means some 1999 Freelanders are also OBD2 compliant and some aren't.

So would this mean then that a 2003 facelift could possibly have a different ECU version than that of a 2005/6 , is there a way of checking which version you have .
Trev

Cheapest way to find out, is buy a cheap blue tooth obd sender from the bay of E, or amazon. Hook it up to your phone using an app like torque etc. If you get a couple of bits working (like mine) you have the old system. If it all lights up and works you have obd2 compliance. Mike

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=201369998989&alt=web like this

cheers Mike, will look into it when i get a minutes spare time .

Thanks Mike, will check that out too.

Quick related question. I'm going to try the leak off test on the injectors at the weekend and just want to be sure which type of tubing to buy this morning. Would 3mm aquarium clear tubing suit?

Tiny1000 said:

If your looking for engine codes the icarsoft i930 will read them - it reads and clears my 2001 TD4

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Not coming across as rude but from the point of me knowing jack 5hite about engines someone suggested I buy one of those i930s for a problem I had last week when the amber light come up. All I would do is tell the mechanic what it displayed and he would probably do the same test anyway so pointless me buying one unless there is another reason why I should?

Rivo81 said:

Thanks Tiny. Good to know theres another option out there. I can't drop that kind of money on a fault reader though. Will probably ask around first to see if anyone has a compatible device in my locality.

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It doesn't have to be a main dealer to read the codes. Your EGR bypass will generate a fault code anyway. However that fault code doesn't trigger what is called a MIL event. In layman's terms, it won't put the light on. However a faulty lift pump will, so will a fault that creates an increase in emissions. This is why reading the codes gives you a background into what is going on. There may be someone close to you that has the necessary diagnostic tool.

Hello friends,

the engine malfunction light AMBER on my Freelander is on.. My carsoff i930 shows P0404 as a fault. I have EGR By Pass fitted, Silicone Hoses.

Any ideas where my problem is? The 90° hose is tide, good clamps...