P38A EAS, WHAT ELSE....AGAIN

tomcat59alan said:

He's not free but not very expensive.

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You should get this one if you remember my name I sent you. I'm free

Unfortunately the only sourse of asbestos rope available here would be by stealing some from my oldest Bentley, but with the blower running at full chat it could be terminal.

Seriously (!) I wonder if the glass fibre rope I use to seal the doors of the log-burner might suffice. In case of doubt I am referring to a heating appliance - I do not own a Stanley Steamer, which prefer coke anyway. Sorry Stanley.

You can order a heat bandage wrap for exhaust pipes but would probably be a pig of a job with it fitted to car

Pression de Gonflage said:

Unfortunately the only sourse of asbestos rope available here would be by stealing some from my oldest Bentley, but with the blower running at full chat it could be terminal.

Seriously (!) I wonder if the glass fibre rope I use to seal the doors of the log-burner might suffice. In case of doubt I am referring to a heating appliance - I do not own a Stanley Steamer, which prefer coke anyway. Sorry Stanley.

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I am sure it would take the heat as it is essentially glass. It will insulate to a point but the original heat shields allow cooling air to flow over the exhaust and behind the shield but are reflective (or were once) to reflect the heat back. Mind you, probably not so effective in traffic in hot countries.

Talking of stoves you can get some sort of fibre board which is rated to take the heat and be fireproof for boiler rooms etc. Seen some somewhere. Spray that with silver Hammerite or maybe layer of reflective aluminium on top. Just need a way to fix it to the studs - the studs tend to rust pretty badly to stubs.

Ceramic is cooked mud. If you get the right type of mud in there itl cook itself

pete12345 said:

You can order a heat bandage wrap for exhaust pipes but would probably be a pig of a job with it fitted to car

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I think you are right Pete, about the fitting. I in fact for delicate souls like me, it would more than a pig, probably a downright illegitimate swine.

Back to hand-made heat shields.

Grrrrrr said:

I am sure it would take the heat as it is essentially glass. It will insulate to a point but the original heat shields allow cooling air to flow over the exhaust and behind the shield but are reflective (or were once) to reflect the heat back. Mind you, probably not so effective in traffic in hot countries.

Talking of stoves you can get some sort of fibre board which is rated to take the heat and be fireproof for boiler rooms etc. Seen some somewhere. Spray that with silver Hammerite or maybe layer of reflective aluminium on top. Just need a way to fix it to the studs - the studs tend to rust pretty badly to stubs.

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I knew about the board for lining boiler rooms when I lived in the UK, but here they just use plasterboard. Ah, now that's a thought. How about plasterboard sprayed with Hammerite ? I've got both.

Pression de Gonflage said:

I knew about the board for lining boiler rooms when I lived in the UK, but here they just use plasterboard. Ah, now that's a thought. How about plasterboard sprayed with Hammerite ? I've got both.

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I 've also got some stainless steel pop rivets somewhere..

Ok all this and I couldnt resist any longer and went to have a look at mine I dont have an issue with mine

I have 1 missing The 1 in place looks like a pressed board material (fibreglass?) And look to be held by bolts onto another bracket.
Neither look complicated and am sure just some of that sticky heat shield stuff on a thin bit of ally that had been bent into shape would be easy.

There is also heatshield on the floor at the point too.

Also found a little self lubrication going on so will need to track that down.

J

Good afternoon Marjon.
Thank you for joining the party. AND thank you for taking the trouble to take the photographs. At least I now know what mine should have looked like. It wasn't as smart as yours and there certainly wasn't that much left of it.

Eventually I think that I will make something to my own design for this. Probably doesn't need such a complex shape as the original, but it would seem that there is probably no great urgency.

Do enjoy the lubricant and as I sit here I am raising a glass to you and to Mrs Marjon. It dawns on me that the "R" in Castrol R stands for Red.

'stonishing good health, Sir ( & Madam)

Pression de Gonflage said:

I knew about the board for lining boiler rooms when I lived in the UK, but here they just use plasterboard. Ah, now that's a thought. How about plasterboard sprayed with Hammerite ? I've got both.

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Not sure plasterboard would last long and it is rather thick. Given a lot of people don't seem to have realised they have dropped off maybe they don't do much.

Pression de Gonflage said:

It dawns on me that the "R" in Castrol R stands for Red.

'stonishing good health, Sir ( & Madam)

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Thank you for the good Heath.

But the “R” doesn’t mean red, it means smellllllllll, Castor oil is the key. Great for 2 strokes.

J

marjon said:

Thank you for the good Heath.

But the “R” doesn’t mean red, it means smellllllllll, Castor oil is the key. Great for 2 strokes.

J

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NOT Red Wine then ?

Pression de Gonflage said:

NOT Red Wine then ?

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Nope that’s best served in a glass, not from an exhaust pipe.

J

Grrrrrr said:

Not sure plasterboard would last long and it is rather thick. Given a lot of people don't seem to have realised they have dropped off maybe they don't do much.

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I think you're right and I'm not sure what my enormous riveter would do to soft plasterboard, always assuming that there is room for it under there.
I think I'll just have a close look at the sensor next time I can get it on Monsieur Renaul's ramp and see if it looks affected.
Thanks for your further thoughts.

Does the shield need to be mounted to the chassis?

Would it be simpler to simply U-bolt onto the exhaust (bearing in mind I haven't been under those bits of Otto to look) and use a sheet metal (with / without insulation layer)? The air gap should do the cooling job on the shield. Rather like exhaust shields on old classic cars like Morgan trikes and on some custom motorcycles?

Scotiawhiskers said:

Does the shield need to be mounted to the chassis?

Would it be simpler to simply U-bolt onto the exhaust (bearing in mind I haven't been under those bits of Otto to look) and use a sheet metal (with / without insulation layer)? The air gap should do the cooling job on the shield. Rather like exhaust shields on old classic cars like Morgan trikes and on some custom motorcycles?

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Excellent idea. I believe that this is what intellectuals call lateral thinking. I can't see any reason at all for not fixing a shield to the exhaust rather than the chassis. I think without any insulation layer it would act as heat shield and heat sink. Perhaps a few holes would help. also like the gubbins on an AC Cobra to stop you burning you your sleeve or your elbow, at least not so badly. I think steel rather than ally to avoid electrolytic, which I suspect is what caused the original shield to crumble. Thanks for joining in to this corner of the asylum.

". I think without any insulation layer it would act as heat shield and heat sink"

I hate to pour cold water on this idea but I think a shield attached to the exhaust pipe is simply going to rise up to the same temperature as the exhaust and then radiate the heat like the exhaust pipe. With the original shield attached to the frame, which is cold, there is some chance it will pass heat to the frame and stay cooler.

Hello Gord.

Thank you for taking the trouble to provide more input.

I take your point but I had in mind that it would be clamped to the pipe, not flush with the surface, but with simple "stand-off" brackets allowing airflow 'twixt pipe and shield. It seemed to work on the Cobra with only about half an inch gap. With aid of a suitable blunt instrument, the leading edge might even be flared slightly to increase airflow.l

What do you think ?

Regards

Tony

p.s. I hope you are not suffering too much from the heat there.

Something like this, even homemade, has minimal conductive transfer to a large area, with an airflow gap that will give lower surface temp and lower radiant than the directly heated exhaust would.
https://www.manomano.co.uk/p/univer...ld-link-tube-cover-34758040?model_id=34738925