Eas Valve block rebuild?

Had my 97 range rover hse in to get eas diagnosed. This was done by my local garage who have specialised software for it. They came back to me with its a faulty valve block which will need rebuilt or replaced? What is involved in rebuilding one of these units, is it just seals?

Can anyone shed any light on cost or on how hard it is?

Thanks
Brian

try -:: P38 Spares - Land Rover and P38 and Range Rover parts, EAS air suspension airbags and diagnostic kickers and faultmate MSV::- i know he does the seal rebuild kit i don,t know about any sort of fitting guide

Thanks for reply. A few more questions to ask

1. Is there anyway of wipping the fault code from ecu? ( can it be dissconnected or battery out?

2. How hard is it to fit the seals?

3. Could one be stuck by dirt? As compressed air always carrys water?

Hi
I have some diagrams somewhere on valve block rebuild, i'll dig them out later.
The p38 spares link is good for block bits.

There is some free software authored by Range Rover God 'Storey Wilson' in the States for EAS unlocking, resetting & calibration. If you go that way, then either follow his advice and buy his lead or manufacture your own as per his instructions. Dont buy from ebay. The link is:
http://www.rswsolutions.com/media/rangerover_easunlock_win32_06-21-08.zip
Storey Wilsons site:
Range Rover EAS Reset Tools

The software is needed to decompress the system before you do any work on the block, and when finished, it will recalibrate the suspension.
I will dig out my papers and post tomorrow.
Another good source of info is:
Index of Range Rover Mechanical Information

bryhp said:

Had my 97 range rover hse in to get eas diagnosed. This was done by my local garage who have specialised software for it. They came back to me with its a faulty valve block which will need rebuilt or replaced? What is involved in rebuilding one of these units, is it just seals?

Can anyone shed any light on cost or on how hard it is?

Thanks
Brian

Click to expand...

Its very unlikely to be a valve block fault even if the codes say things like "Inlet valve stuck shut." Much more likely to be a failed compressor,burst airbag or even failing height sensors.All these give the same symptoms as a faulty block but the ecu cannot tell the difference - all it knows is that the car did not show a height change,(within a certain time)from a command to open valves to raise or lower the car.Dead compressor - no air to work with,burst bag,esp at back as rear raises 70% rear first - same result.The height sensors are variable resistors,when they wear they can give the same reading in several places,so thecar goes up or down and the ecu thinks it hasnt moved as its getting the same reading.
Last thing,(there are others too,but these are most common) is the little exhaust silencer at the lower rear of the valve block,these block up and then the car cannot lower - this gives an "Exhaust valve stuck shut" fault.
Good luck,check all the rest before you spend £'s on a valve block that has nothing wrong with it.

Thanks for help and advice. How can i narrow down the fault?

Don't think its a burst bag as its not been leaking?
The compressor has been working as i could here it

The fault came up while cruising on a flat road about 60mph? While stopped the front of the car then lowered and then the rear followed? Any advice would be great as i wish to keep air susspension and not drain my wallet. Does anyone know any good specialists in glasgow?

Also should add before i had the fault code it would sometimes go to the highest setting and some times not go all the way down for the access hight. More usually it would be stuck at highest setting with aventually settling at the motorway hight which i use most often?

Had another look tonight getting annoyed with it just sitting there and not being able to use it.

Used the relay slot to fire up compressor which kicked in very quietly and did not raise hight of the rangie. With the engine running you could not hear compressor at all.

Could this mean the compressor is knackered and is the part that needs replacing? If so is it a hard job to replace? Has anyone replaced one?

HELP!!!

changing the compressor took me about 10 mins(and that was only using one arm) , from what i can remember, there is only 3 small nuts to undo, 1 plug and 1 tube nut.

This thread may help, check my replies http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/p38-air-sus-problems-strange-ones-55233.html

By the way you do know that the suspension won't work with a door or tailgate open.

Ye i'm not as stupid as i look! lol!!

Really unsure where to start and annoyed i can't get parts local other than land rover main (rip off) dealer.

Is there anywhere in or around glasgow?

To update:-
My local garage is taking my car tomorrow and will test all components in the valve block. They have quoted 150 - 200 quid.

I have discovered another fault! i tried to use cruise control before Eas fault, but the button on the wheel does nothing? Can anyone help?

bryhp said:

To update:-
My local garage is taking my car tomorrow and will test all components in the valve block. They have quoted 150 - 200 quid.

Click to expand...

Hmmm, sounds easy money to me.
As Eight has already told you it's rare for the fault to be the valveblock, I'd be more suspicious of a height sensor or the drive box (ANR3900) these you can get from Ebay at around £140.
In the meantime make use of not having your car by downloading the free software to reset the fault Range Rover EAS Reset Tools
Then download the w/shop manual

Regards the Cruise, check the vacuum hose for leaks

I am concerned that you say your garage has specialised software to diagnose the faulty valve block, but then you ask if there is a way to clear the logged fault. A lot of garages have some very good equipment but the Range Rover is a bit special. They will need either an Autologic, Rovercom / Faultmate, or Testbook to clear your fault. If the havnt then I would be suspicious of their claims.

As mentioned, get hold of the free software and follow this link to a wealth of information to help diagnose. Make up a simple jumper wire and work around all the systems proving them one at a time until you narrow it down. There are some good videos on Youtube aswell. Have a look at Malfaxdands channel