P38A EAS Suspension not activating

Sophia2007 said:

Ok diagnostic software is ordered i'll get some diagnostic data first and then can also try the pressure gauge on the line running to the tank.

Thanks all, i will update next week

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Bugger. Was going to say send a message to Datatek on here. He'd make a decent cable and all the software you'd ever need much better and cheaper than the stuff on eBay.

Sophia2007 said:

next i am going to check the pressure switch and thermal sensor

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I'd start with the thermal switch. It isn't always as clear cut as Wammer's guide. Only costs about a fiver.

Update on progress, it looks like the thermal sensor is at fault can anyone advise the best place to buy this?

Great thank you

First get a spray bottle and put some washing up liquid in it and water (to make a soapy solution) then spray over the block and around all the hoses, and see if you have a leak first from the pipes

Dopey said:

First get a spray bottle and put some washing up liquid in it and water (to make a soapy solution) then spray over the block and around all the hoses, and see if you have a leak first from the pipes

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Thank you. Yes been through the complete system and done this with no leaks detected after the air lines were replaced.

as an aside, you mention the battery was replaced 3 months ago but is going flat. It may not be something draining the power but a faulty alternator regulator so the battery isn't getting a good charge. a voltmeter on the alternator terminal an earth should give you a steady 14.1V or thereabouts IIRC.

you can get the regulator rather that a whole alternator. takes about 20 minutes to fit

Sophia2007 said:

Great thank you

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Be gentle when fitting it. You need to very carefully prise the circuit board off the rivet things without breaking it. Swap the thermal switch out (solder sucker helps) then put the board back and flatten the edges of the rivets back down to hold it. The wires for the brushes will hook up on the ends of their mounts for reassembly but remember to unhook and make sure they're free before the top is fully closed.

Update on the problem - all sorted

Work that was carried out as below

Air lines to rear all replaced we found a small leak on one pipe so replaced both sets
Air line to the reservoir tank replaced
Compressor given a full overhaul with new seals etc. now putting out the full 175psi
Valve block completely stripped down and all seals replaced (there is a lot of seals)
System was then set up and pressurized and all runs perfectly now.

If anyone needs advice happy to ask my mechanic as he has now become a bit of an expert on this system.

Dread to think how much that cost

actually wasn't too bad seal kits and piping were pretty cheap just used a roll of high pressure piping that i got from a local motor factors, took him a few hours to rebuild it all but i would definatley recommend doing all the seals if the compressor seals fail. Might be in my head but i am sure it rides better now and certainly lifts and lowers much faster than before.

Have you checked the connectors in the left hand footwell,they tend to corrode and can cause faults. if the car is later than 99my i believe it self checks for faults on start up. I had a similar problem and it was the non return valves

Sophia2007 said:

actually wasn't too bad seal kits and piping were pretty cheap just used a roll of high pressure piping that i got from a local motor factors, took him a few hours to rebuild it all but i would definatley recommend doing all the seals if the compressor seals fail. Might be in my head but i am sure it rides better now and certainly lifts and lowers much faster than before.

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Leak in airline usually caused by hole in the exhaust so best check that if not already done.