EAS Still not working and crunch time now!

2002 L322 TD6.

So the EAS hasnt worked since i picked the motor up. However when i did the rear brake pads nearly a year ago i broke the pad wire. When i started it afterwards it put the SRS airbag light on!

Ive been to several specialists who cant access various ECU's.

I finally took the plunge and bought RSW. Was a waste as that cant access of help me anymore than the generic Snap On device i have can.

These are the codes i have from each module:
ABS ECU:
Steering angle plausibility.
Temporary system deactivation. This will be linked to the one above. Didnt get wheel centred when last recalibrated SAS.
Air suspension system CAN error.

SRS:
Offline comms

Headlight Level:
Offline comms

AirSuspension:
Offline comms

HEVAC:
No Codes

BCM:
Offline comms

Seat and Steering Module:
No codes

DSP:
No codes

Engine Module:
Rail pressure sensor, On my list to change!
Glow pug system

Left HID:
Ignition voltage < 7.5 volts.
D2S/R-Light is off.

Right HID:
Internal open circuit.
Ignition voltage < 7.5 volts.

Instrument Pack:
Acoustic transmitter fault.
Oil pressure input fault.
EBV function fault received from ABS ECU.
Transmission Interface Bus fault.
Chime T1 fault.

LCM:
gets stuck connecting and doesnt get any further.

Nav module:
Offline comms

Parking module:
Front sounder off, wasmissing when i bought it. Now installed.

Engine imob:
Comms offline

Rain Sensor:
Comms offline

SAS:
Steering angle sensor battery supply.
Steering angle range exceeded.

Steering Column Interlock:
K-Bus receive error.
Interruption relay fault.

Transfer Box:
Battery undervoltage (0x5212).
Noise on actuator signal (0x5223).
INSTR2 lost from CAN (0x52ED).
INSTR3 lost from CAN (0x52F2).

Transmission:
No Codes

ANY ideas anyone?

I have a month until the MOT is due!

That sounds like a lot of voltage problems, if you delete the codes what happens?
Are you supporting the battery while your diagnosing.
A voltage drop while diagnostic is carried out will cause al kinds of faults.
Alternator and battery issues are a flipping nightmare on the more ecu dependant vehicles.

Looking at that I would guess comms problem. I'd be checking the OBD socket for damage dampness may be.
Some one with more knowledge in these RR's will be along soon

Mark Piercy said:

That sounds like a lot of voltage problems, if you delete the codes what happens?
Are you supporting the battery while your diagnosing.
A voltage drop while diagnostic is carried out will cause al kinds of faults.
Alternator and battery issues are a flipping nightmare on the more ecu dependant vehicles.

Click to expand...

So the voltage problems will be more likely due to the battery going down through standing and then when i try to start its too low. For diagnosing i have it running or with another 019 battery on leads connected. Ive just fitted another new battery, 020 i think it was and Bosch branded. I have a new alternator to fit aswell as current one charges at 14v not 14.4v.

Are the codes repeat offenders then?
Have you gone through all the fuses also.
You could dig out each ecu and check there is a power feed to the concerning Ecu's. If there isn't you have to go back to the feed sources.
If you have power to each ecu then also check the earth's for each and around the car.
Damp is a bad enemy of the L322's.

You can check the steering sensor angles normally with live data and watch as you slowly turn the steering wheel for any jumping in the angle reading.

Mark Piercy said:

You can check the steering sensor angles normally with live data and watch as you slowly turn the steering wheel for any jumping in the angle reading.

Click to expand...

SAS was just beause i forgot to calibrate wheel propoerly after reconnecting battery.

The ECU's must be getting power as the EAS compressor runs when ignition is turned on, lights work, SRS light used to go off until i broke brake pad wire, now it stays on.

Battery needs to be 100% or it will throw a wobbler. You know the lock to lock steering reset, is in searchbar.

As you know the srs isn't related to the brake pads but just may be a coincidence.

You haven't yet said if the codes keep coming back @t20bigjim

Mark Piercy said:

You have yet said if the codes keep coming back @t20bigjim

Click to expand...

Going for a drive this afternoon to see what comes back.

The only one i cannot clear is the EAS code in the ABS.

When driving, randomly it used to come up with transmission failsafe mode or whatever on the display. That would be the instruction lost from can codes. That transmission failure hasnt come up for a month or so now.

t20bigjim said:

Going for a drive this afternoon to see what comes back.

The only one i cannot clear is the EAS code in the ABS.

When driving, randomly it used to come up with transmission failsafe mode or whatever on the display. That would be the instruction lost from can codes. That transmission failure hasnt come up for a month or so now.

Click to expand...

Can you see the wheel speeds while moving in the live data? That'll take out your hdc, abs and traction aids.

Amazingly, we’ve fixed it :O

problem was the wire between splice X10116 & X10466! Did a continuity check and nothing, spliced a wire in and I can now talk to all ECU’s!

Now I have problems to fix!

SRS codes cleared and light has stayed off thankfully.

air suspension is still inactive and says max 35mph and self levelling suspension inactive.

codes are front RH & LH valves plus front valve supply fault.
Now I can manually pump up the suspension by powering each valve and the compressor. So would that mean the ECU is more likely to be shot?

t20bigjim said:

Amazingly, we’ve fixed it :O

problem was the wire between splice X10116 & X10466! Did a continuity check and nothing, spliced a wire in and I can now talk to all ECU’s!

Now I have problems to fix!

SRS codes cleared and light has stayed off thankfully.

air suspension is still inactive and says max 35mph and self levelling suspension inactive.

codes are front RH & LH valves plus front valve supply fault.
Now I can manually pump up the suspension by powering each valve and the compressor. So would that mean the ECU is more likely to be shot?

Click to expand...

If you have the 35mph showing the system needs resetting before anything will work. You need nanocom or EAS unlock suite

Rubberknees said:

If you have the 35mph showing the system needs resetting before anything will work. You need nanocom or EAS unlock suite

Click to expand...

Can that be done with RSW all comms? Or I have a Snap On Verus.

t20bigjim said:

Can that be done with RSW all comms? Or I have a Snap On Verus.

Click to expand...

Believe the RSW allcomms will. Go to their website and check for instructions