EAS spurious inputs

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youngshag

Member
Posts
50
Location
North Huyton, Liverpool
I've had a problem for a while now where the EAS tries to raise to wading height on its own. It puts the EAS into soft fault. It clears with the lead and pc and is few and far between. Using some good info from Wammers I checked the white plugs, behind the trim panel in the passenger footwell. One of the connectors was furry and when I tried to clean the pins, one snapped real easy. There are two plugs there, one is for the speakers (10 connections) and the other is the EAS interface (13 connections). Today I changed the plug for a new universal type (mate n lok) from auto electrical supplies. Its a nice job, a bit fiddly but nice. I'll report back if the problem doesn't rear its head again or indeed if it does.
 
mine started doing that then it started the hard fault,unlocked it a couple of times then because of time factor purchased a recon valve block from our sponsors emmots with a 12 month guarantee set it up seems to be a lot more responsive and seems ok will reseal the old one at xmas when im off and keep so get it sorted . l had to get mine recovered home
 
I've had a problem for a while now where the EAS tries to raise to wading height on its own. It puts the EAS into soft fault. It clears with the lead and pc and is few and far between. Using some good info from Wammers I checked the white plugs, behind the trim panel in the passenger footwell. One of the connectors was furry and when I tried to clean the pins, one snapped real easy. There are two plugs there, one is for the speakers (10 connections) and the other is the EAS interface (13 connections). Today I changed the plug for a new universal type (mate n lok) from auto electrical supplies. Its a nice job, a bit fiddly but nice. I'll report back if the problem doesn't rear its head again or indeed if it does.
You would have been better off soldering and heat shrinking the wires.
 
The new plugs haven't sorted the problem. The eas still faults and puts the car into wading height. After lots more searching I have come to realise the driver pack seems to be the problem. My fault of 'pressure constantly high' is a generic fault the unit flashes. Apparently if the two safeguards, pressure switch and overtemp unit, are shagged then the compressor will not run. My compressor not only runs but controls the eas as it should, even when it faults. So, I'm toying with getting a brand spanker. Any ideas who sells them really cheap? I'd consider a guaranteed second hand one if there are any about. Ebay has some but I'd rather have a recommendation. Any thoughts?
 
The new plugs haven't sorted the problem. The eas still faults and puts the car into wading height. After lots more searching I have come to realise the driver pack seems to be the problem. My fault of 'pressure constantly high' is a generic fault the unit flashes. Apparently if the two safeguards, pressure switch and overtemp unit, are shagged then the compressor will not run. My compressor not only runs but controls the eas as it should, even when it faults. So, I'm toying with getting a brand spanker. Any ideas who sells them really cheap? I'd consider a guaranteed second hand one if there are any about. Ebay has some but I'd rather have a recommendation. Any thoughts?
Driver pack is highly likely to be the problem assuming the connectors in the EAS box are all making good contact. My replacement is second hand off EBAY, can't remember the cost but about £20. I have also managed to mend the faulty one.
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/driver-pack-problems-272816.html
 
I'd seriously look at Data's work on repairing an old driver pack. If, as seems likely, that burnt out cap that he found was a smoother on the input then it makes sense to me that this could result in exactly what you described "spurious inputs".
 
+1 on the connectors to driver pack, especially the one between the driver pack & valves. The sockets become loose on the pins, and prevent valves opening correctly.

  1. Remove valve block
  2. Disconnect pressure switch pins from main connector.
  3. Unplug valve connector
  4. Use pin from pressure switch to feel how tight the valve connector sockets are.
  5. Gently squash sockets to improve contact.
  6. Re-Fit & test.
Might save you cost of replacement driver pack.

Pete
 
Somewhere I've got a soldering iron that consists of a steel pyramid on a rod with a wooden handle. I remember my dad heating it in the coal fire and soldering pipes with it.
 
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