Eas program no comms

Rollinthunda said:

Ok getting tired lol…. I can’t see corrosion on port but my eyesight is not gr8, definite beep when obd2 is plugged in but still no rx on system just the PP in the rx does anyone live in the north west England that has a definite good working system I could run up to you and plug in see what happens????

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@tomcat59alan? @Grrrrrr ? Maybe!

Mark Piercy said:

@tomcat59alan? @Grrrrrr ? Maybe!

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Your geography is as bad as your jokes Mark @Grrrrrr is nowhere near the northwest.

Rollinthunda said:

I bought the cable and usb extension and usb drive from p38 spares on eBay supposedly all tried and tested I have tried to run this via the usb and via the serial port to no avail do any of you have a working set up as if your not too far from me I will drive over and we could prove it’s the car not the equipment !!

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Have you cut out the connectors at the base of the A posts behind the plastic kick panels? Cut them out,solder and heat shrink the wires.if you still have no success after doing both sides then PM me, envelope symbol top right with your phone number and we can try my working kit on your car and your kit on mine to make sure it's working.I'm no electrickery eggspert but we'll try.

tomcat59alan said:

Your geography is as bad as your jokes Mark @Grrrrrr is nowhere near the northwest.

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Quite right. I live in the sun in Bucks. I used to visit the NW but most of the people I knew are dead now.

Grrrrrr said:

Quite right. I live in the sun in Bucks. I used to visit the NW but most of the people I knew are dead now.

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I've no idea why I thought that you were over there, sorry @Grrrrrr - rrrrrr..

Ok guys yes my set up works on another vehicle (cheers Alan) I have soldered all wires in passenger footwell and still no difference, could there be corrosion in the obd2 that I can’t see?

Cheers Alan for the help my set up works fine on another vehicle so I’ve soldered all wires in passenger footwell and still same result! Also have orange lift on dash of Rangerover with arrow underneath that has been there since hard fault just not sure I’ve mentioned it

Rollinthunda said:

Ok guys yes my set up works on another vehicle (cheers Alan) I have soldered all wires in passenger footwell and still no difference, could there be corrosion in the obd2 that I can’t see?

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Yes, the wires can even corrode off at the back.
I assume that the correct EAS relay is fitted under the passenger seat?

Just finished doing all the wires on drivers side too still no further progress!

Picture in previous post of eas relay

Rollinthunda said:

Just finished doing all the wires on drivers side too still no further progress!

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That's the one.

Going too wire this in later in the week and if that doesn’t work I’m completely stumped.

Playing around with the Comm port selection in the RSW software, often times you're on the wrong port and it won't connect..

Other times it can be the cable itself Did you put the driver for the USB to serial adaptor into your laptop before you connected it to car. The generic Windows drivers usually don't work, also worth trying to drop the baud rate to 4,800.

Assuming you're using RSW software

Henry_b said:

Playing around with the Comm port selection in the RSW software, often times you're on the wrong port and it won't connect..

Other times it can be the cable itself Did you put the driver for the USB to serial adaptor into your laptop before you connected it to car. The generic Windows drivers usually don't work, also worth trying to drop the baud rate to 4,800.

Assuming you're using RSW software

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His cable and software work on another car Henry, so the problem is in the car. If the OBD connector change doesn't fix it, I'd be trying a replacement EAS relay followed by the ECU as I have spares.

I know it's been said before, but re-check all the connections to the diagnostic port. EAS needs pins 1 for the timer relay, and pins 11 & 12 for communications. Pins 4, 5 & 16 are always required for Nanocom, but for EAS-Unlock it depends on the cable. Either 4 or 5 will be required for Ground connection.

Remember C104 & C204 are behind LH footwell panel, but C102 & C202 are behind the RH panel.

I agree with Kieth that checking the timer relay is a good idea, because without this you cannot start diagnostics. My understanding is the ECU needs the relay to be toggled to force a reboot, because EAS-Unlock sends a special sequence when the ECU powers on to start the diagnostic mode. This why you get the warning beeps when EAS diagnostic starts.

Pete

Ok guys new odb plug fitted and still exactly the same!

I can definitely hear something clicking under passenger seat obvs got to be the relay still getting pp in the rx also what or where is the baud rate if you mean the sliders for idle delay they only go from 0-500

Rollinthunda said:

I can definitely hear something clicking under passenger seat obvs got to be the relay still getting pp in the rx also what or where is the baud rate

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Change the under seat EAS relay as your next step. Not expensive secondhand.

Datatek said:

Change the under seat EAS relay as your next step. Not expensive secondhand.

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Mine clicks when you initialise program and then a sec or 2 later clicks again. Bare in mind the car was totally fine until the catastrophic air leak! I’m not keen on buying a 2nd hand relay when mine appears to be ok and for all I know the 2nd hand one could be buggered. I am definitely at a dead end now. I feel like torching it but the can of petrol is too expensive

Rollinthunda said:

Mine clicks when you initialise program and then a sec or 2 later clicks again. Bare in mind the car was totally fine until the catastrophic air leak!

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Do you get the beeps and the Slow 35mph message when you plug in the EAS cable from the computer?
If the relay doesn't operate correctly, there will be no comms, I assume it's a tall black relay?