EAS Problems P38

Hi All

Been a while since i've been here, due mainly to splitting up and giving wife the Rangie.

But i've got back involved with it temporarily, Recently it showed soft fault when she was driving to work, then on the way home hit hard fault and she drove the last 3 miles or so fully deflated. I found the pump had no output pulled it apart and the piston bearing had failed which also scored up the piston and ruined the seal.
Replaced the piston liner and seal and tested ok but i cannot rest the fault

Using EASunlock it seems to communicate as I can power pump on and off, I have had the fault reset but only when engine running, pump kicked in lights on dash went to normal but it just faulted again.

So either it gets taken by scrap man, a manual spring kit (anyone here got a used one going cheap) or need some idea where I'm going wrong
Thanks in advance

What fault is indicated ??

Pump should run when Ignition is on, regardless of engine running. If you need to use EASunlock to trigger it, then maybe the system has pressure or another fault.

Leave door open and wait for the pump to stop on it's own. Then check for leaks. . . . . everywhere.

Any faults stored?

Diagnostics forces pump. If you can only run it using diagnostics the thermal switch in top of pump might be fried. Cheap and fairly easy if you can use a soldering iron.

Seems to give random different faults, cannot clear them with engine off and only way to power pump is with the function in the software.
So engine running clear fault, message goes pump kicks in runs for 10 secs max then fault message again and all stop.

I don't live at house with the car which unfortunatly will be scrapped if not sorted in next few days

I'd try the thermal switch unless someone else has a better idea.

Ok thanks will look at it, but would this cause it to keep faulting as when fault cleared the pump does run until it faults again.

I used to have a Nanocom this EASunlock is not the best IMO

Don't know to be honest. Need one of the gurus. Switch is cheap and easy and gets damaged when things like you describe happen. Sometimes they don't fail completely. I had one fail and no fault was stored at all.

Once I had a pump that was badly worn and that would run and then jam. If I shook it it would run again and then jam. That means a new pump though.

Well I'll definitely take your advice and check the thermal switch hopefully it will be all thats needed
Considering the state of the pump piston and liner i'd imagine the pump was on almost constantly at the end

Thanks for the tip

Mamasbigtruck said:

Well I'll definitely take your advice and check the thermal switch hopefully it will be all thats needed
Considering the state of the pump piston and liner i'd imagine the pump was on almost constantly at the end

Thanks for the tip

Click to expand...

To bypass the thermal cut out you can earth the orange or pink wire (depends how discoloured the wire is) on the pump wiring block. The pump may be fecked.

Hi thanks
Pumps good now since i rebuilt it was wrecked before no pressure at all, now I can't hold pressure back with my finger.
I will check sensor, then bypass if failed to see if the suspension will lift on its own after faults reset

Mamasbigtruck said:

Hi thanks
Pumps good now since i rebuilt it was wrecked before no pressure at all, now I can't hold pressure back with my finger.
I will check sensor, then bypass if failed to see if the suspension will lift on its own after faults reset

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Leave a door open for 10 mins if you get the pump to run to charge the tank. Should rise straight away when you close the door.

First of all the compressor should not run with only ignition on, it should only run when engine is running, that is why the ECU receives an engine speed signal. Check the diaphragm for leaks when compressor is running. Just follow the checks in my "How to". We need to know the fault codes. Just clearing a fault is a waste of time if you don't note what it is.

Hi, faults shown but no all the time, are height sensors, fr, RL, clearing codes then re-checking can then show all or just one

Still gut feeling hard fault was pump related as it was totally shot, bearing cage and some of the balls had fallen out, still ran, made hell of a noise, no pressure what so ever, and noting left of seal

Thanks for all your input, would be a shame to scrap

Mamasbigtruck said:

Hi, faults shown but no all the time, are height sensors, fr, RL, clearing codes then re-checking can then show all or just one

Still gut feeling hard fault was pump related as it was totally shot, bearing cage and some of the balls had fallen out, still ran, made hell of a noise, no pressure what so ever, and noting left of seal

Thanks for all your input, would be a shame to scrap

Click to expand...

You have no air check the diaphragm as previously stated follow the checks in the How to. Have you played with valve block? If height sensors do not move after a preset time a fault will be thrown. Nothing to do with sensor just lack of air to inflate system.
Read this and follow the checks. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/checking-eas-compressor-and-diaphragm-valve.172555/

Yesterday, I did remove the valve block, and checked diaphragm which was OK,

Gonna gave a chick check at lunchtime with a few things but only have an hour and have to stay clean

Mamasbigtruck said:

Yesterday, I did remove the valve block, and checked diaphragm which was OK,

Gonna gave a chick check at lunchtime with a few things but only have an hour and have to stay clean

Click to expand...

Did you put the pipes back in their correct places, did you remove and refit any of the coils? You won't know if the diaphragm is leaking until you finger test it. You must describe in detail everything you have done half a story only gets half an answer. Run the compressor on diag for no more than five minutes with a door open check for overheat as this is done. Start engine close door and see if it rises.

After first hard fault, I connected Easunlock and powered on pump with hose connected and no flow and scary noise, rebuilt pump with new piston liner and seal from Landyair pump test then showed good pressure and low noise
Tried reset but wouldn't, upon resetting with engine running pump would kick in for a few second but hard fault would occurr again
Removed valve block photo taken so hoses back in correct places, check diaphragm was not damaged I have not checked output from exhaust when pump running I guessed as I'm forcing the run of the pump from the software it would exhaust here anyway. should it?
No coils removed so far
When hoses were disconnected a certain amount of residual pressure was remaining I expect this was normal.

I'd say thermal switch - it's almost identical to the problems I had previously. Replaced sensor and all was good.. though in the end, replaced the entire compressor with a new unit.

Mamasbigtruck said:

After first hard fault, I connected Easunlock and powered on pump with hose connected and no flow and scary noise, rebuilt pump with new piston liner and seal from Landyair pump test then showed good pressure and low noise
Tried reset but wouldn't, upon resetting with engine running pump would kick in for a few second but hard fault would occurr again
Removed valve block photo taken so hoses back in correct places, check diaphragm was not damaged I have not checked output from exhaust when pump running I guessed as I'm forcing the run of the pump from the software it would exhaust here anyway. should it?
No coils removed so far
When hoses were disconnected a certain amount of residual pressure was remaining I expect this was normal.

Click to expand...

No if you force compressor to run it should just fill tank. Power to compressor activates diaphragm solenoid, this directs air from tank under diaphragm to hold it closed. Yes air escape is normal even when down on bump stops. However you should have had a lot of air from tank connection if you didn't that is your problem. System is not making air. The compressor brush set maybe shot and causing the thermal switch to trip or the switch itself maybe be faulty. If you can run compressor for five minutes on diag and it does not get over hot. Maybe you need to take a look inside it at the brush end.