eas problems....continued

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stueep38

stueep38

New Member
Posts
190
Location
oxford
after my post the other day and taking all the advice im still not able to solve this problem :doh: my copressor piston snapped 3ish weeks ago so ordered a new one from LR, fitted it and all was good.......for 8-9 days!! pump stopped working so called LR and they replaced it, as before i fitted it and all was fine!! week later car dropped AGAIN. i have had it all plugged in and everything is fine pump comes back with good idle all sensors are working fine etc etc. a friend of mine got the pump to work again but the pump would cut off and kick back in within a second or 2? and now its not working again! all bags have been checked front appear to have been changed not long before i got the car (16 months ago) however the rears dont look great so i have some new ones coming tomorrow. i have checked all airlines and cannot fine or hear a leak. we left the car over night in maximum height and pulled the solonoid thats keeps the car level to see if any corner would drop, but it didnt?! i am stumped :confused:! all i can think is that the pump is duff? any advice would be great :D
 
stueep38 said:
after my post the other day and taking all the advice im still not able to solve this problem :doh: my copressor piston snapped 3ish weeks ago so ordered a new one from LR, fitted it and all was good.......for 8-9 days!! pump stopped working so called LR and they replaced it, as before i fitted it and all was fine!! week later car dropped AGAIN. i have had it all plugged in and everything is fine pump comes back with good idle all sensors are working fine etc etc. a friend of mine got the pump to work again but the pump would cut off and kick back in within a second or 2? and now its not working again! all bags have been checked front appear to have been changed not long before i got the car (16 months ago) however the rears dont look great so i have some new ones coming tomorrow. i have checked all airlines and cannot fine or hear a leak. we left the car over night in maximum height and pulled the solonoid thats keeps the car level to see if any corner would drop, but it didnt?! i am stumped :confused:! all i can think is that the pump is duff? any advice would be great :D
Click to expand...

The leaks on the bags open and close where they fold under so putting it to max height may well show no leaks.
Have you checked the diaphragm?
Have you read Wammers How To?
 
Datatek said:
The leaks on the bags open and close where they fold under so putting it to max height may well show no leaks.
Have you checked the diaphragm?
Have you read Wammers How To?
Click to expand...

yeah my buddy who came and plugged it in is very clued up with p38's and seems to no everything! we gave everything the twice over and spent 3 hours going over everything he could imagine. when the pump eventually engaged it was going for ages then cut off, and a sec later back on again! i will read wammers how to now :eek:
 
i have read wammers "how to" and wired the pump to 12v and it works fine, just wont work when plugged in? :confused:
 
stueep38 said:
i have read wammers "how to" and wired the pump to 12v and it works fine, just wont work when plugged in? :confused:
Click to expand...

If the compressor ran for some time then stopped it is odds on the thermal cut out overheated and stopped it. If it won't start on car odds are thermal cut out is cooked. Do all the checks in the "How To".
 
stueep38 said:
yeah my buddy who came and plugged it in is very clued up with p38's and seems to no everything! we gave everything the twice over and spent 3 hours going over everything he could imagine. when the pump eventually engaged it was going for ages then cut off, and a sec later back on again! i will read wammers how to now :eek:
Click to expand...
Your friend can't be that clued up if he left it running for ages. Best to read wammers guide on here mate
 
Had similar issue, pump worked when it felt like it. Turned out to be a height sensor cutting in and out!!! You just never know... Good luck and keep at it, you'll be glad you did:)
 
Might be worth taking the end off the compressor (not the piston end, the other one) and checking the circuit board in the top. The thermal switch should show almost no resistance across it (i.e. current flows) but also check the copper of the printed circuit because it is bloody thin and sometimes cracks or vapourises off if you force it to run using diagnostics or similar. The circuit is pretty simple: basically a ring with 3 blobby things that I assume are capacitors for suppression of interference to the radio? Yellow or green with 150 written on them. Maybe Nick-the-geek or another electronics wizard would know.

There are 2 sort of solder rivets holding the circuit board in place. If you sort of nibble the edges with needle-nose pliers and then GENTLY (otherwise the board or a circuit will snap!) prise the board off the rivets. If you're careful the board will push fairly firmly back onto the rivets and a spot of decent epoxy resin on top will stop it coming adrift.

Height sensor was a good call. I need to take mine apart and give them a good clean!
 
Grrrrrr said:
Might be worth taking the end off the compressor (not the piston end, the other one) and checking the circuit board in the top. The thermal switch should show almost no resistance across it (i.e. current flows) but also check the copper of the printed circuit because it is bloody thin and sometimes cracks or vapourises off if you force it to run using diagnostics or similar. The circuit is pretty simple: basically a ring with 3 blobby things that I assume are capacitors for suppression of interference to the radio? Yellow or green with 150 written on them. Maybe Nick-the-geek or another electronics wizard would know.

There are 2 sort of solder rivets holding the circuit board in place. If you sort of nibble the edges with needle-nose pliers and then GENTLY (otherwise the board or a circuit will snap!) prise the board off the rivets. If you're careful the board will push fairly firmly back onto the rivets and a spot of decent epoxy resin on top will stop it coming adrift.

Height sensor was a good call. I need to take mine apart and give them a good clean!
Click to expand...

You can't take height sensors apart to clean them.
 
Here's a piccy of the top of the board. The square black component is the thermal switch.

20131124_121238.jpg

Here's the underside of the board. You'll notice I had to solder a piece of copper wire on mine because the copper circuit had broken. There's no way that wire is going to vapourise!

20131124_195414.jpg
 
Grrrrrr said:
You can't? Damn. Wish I'd read this last night!

How about if I squirt electrical cleaner in there and move the arm between extremes checking the resistance? Or will I just do more harm than good?
Click to expand...

If you move onto parts of the track that the sensors haven't normally used you could pick any debris that has been swept there. If they're working leave well alone. If they're faulty, or suspect, replace them.
 
Best leave alone then. Although sometimes it seems to search for the level at traffic lights which seems to imply the reading might be fluctuating slightly. Nothing unusual when put on diagnostics though.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Best leave alone then. Although sometimes it seems to search for the level at traffic lights which seems to imply the reading might be fluctuating slightly. Nothing unusual when put on diagnostics though.
Click to expand...

Quite normal. Applying the footbrake freezes the system. Releasing the brake allows it to re-level. Then there's something else that's been mentioned about leveling between the front bags at very low speed. I can't remember exactly but it's quite normal to have a little, slow motion dance at lights. Of course you can watch it all happen because you've not much else to look at and the back end of the vehicle in front gives your eyes a steady reference point.
 
dogsbody said:
Quite normal. Applying the footbrake freezes the system. Releasing the brake allows it to re-level. Then there's something else that's been mentioned about leveling between the front bags at very low speed. I can't remember exactly but it's quite normal to have a little, slow motion dance at lights. Of course you can watch it all happen because you've not much else to look at and the back end of the vehicle in front gives your eyes a steady reference point.
Click to expand...
True,When braking especially to avoid jumping lights your car dives , it needs a little dance to sort itself out :)
 
Last edited:
Grrrrrr said:
You can't? Damn. Wish I'd read this last night!

How about if I squirt electrical cleaner in there and move the arm between extremes checking the resistance? Or will I just do more harm than good?
Click to expand...
You will not get any electrical cleaner into the sensor, the shaft is sealed with 2 "O" rings to be watertight. Worth cleaning the connectors though.
 
Grit Valve said:
True,When braking especially to avoid jumping lights your car dives , it needs a little dance to sort itself out :)
Click to expand...

Every time the car speed falls below 1 MPH the front valves open to equalise pressure across the front axle. If one side has more pressure in it than the other the car will drop slightly. It will then rise to match sensor preset positions. Very normal, if the suspension is set up correctly the only way to reduce this is for the driver to go on a diet.
 
wammers said:
Every time the car speed falls below 1 MPH the front valves open to equalise pressure across the front axle. If one side has more pressure in it than the other the car will drop slightly. It will then rise to match sensor preset positions. Very normal, if the suspension is set up correctly the only way to reduce this is for the driver to go on a diet.
Click to expand...

:hysterically_laughi
 
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