EAS Problem - Need experts advise

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kingy12

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Hi,

Can someone please advise on an EAS problem I am having.

We bought a Range Rover 4.0 HSE (2000) two weeks ago and after three days, whilst driving I had the error message "EAS Fault" shown, and also the height switch lights on the dashboard light up. The RR went into hard mold raising to its highest level, where it stayed.

We took the RR to a specialist the following morning, who diagnosed the problem to be the main inlet valve being stuck open (he used diagnostics to find problem). He was able to clear the problem using his computer, after the RR run perfectly. We hoped this had solved the problem, however yesterday morning the problem returned.

We have returned to the garage who again fixed the problem using diagnostics, however within 10 miles the problem returned. The garage has said that the RR needs a new Valve Block at a price of £500 + labour.

Whilst I do not have any reason to doubt the prognosis, I wondered if anyone could advise if you can actually replace/repair the inlet valve in lieu of the whole block? I understand there is a valve for each wheel, a main inlet valve and an exhaust valve. I have been advised that you cannot replace the main inlet valve itself and you would need the whole block replaced. Is this the case?

Would it not be the Solenoid for the inlet valve at fault? Can I replace this part?

Any help or advise would be greatly appreciated.

Many Thanks
 
It's been a while since I've had my old P38 valve block in bits.

But if you need a new solenoid, then I'm sure you can replace it.

You can also buy secondhand units, etc.

You can overhaul the valve block with a new diaphragm and o-rings while you're on too!
 
You can overhaul the valve block. First step, download the free EAS software from www.rswsolutions.com, buy a lead off Ebay (or maybe madhatman) and then you can read and clear the faults yourself.
Did you actually see the print out of the fault? Because it is possible that the stealer is not being honest. Usual cause of that problem is a height sensor or the driver pack.
 
kingy12 said:
Hi,

Can someone please advise on an EAS problem I am having.

We bought a Range Rover 4.0 HSE (2000) two weeks ago and after three days, whilst driving I had the error message "EAS Fault" shown, and also the height switch lights on the dashboard light up. The RR went into hard mold raising to its highest level, where it stayed.

We took the RR to a specialist the following morning, who diagnosed the problem to be the main inlet valve being stuck open (he used diagnostics to find problem). He was able to clear the problem using his computer, after the RR run perfectly. We hoped this had solved the problem, however yesterday morning the problem returned.

We have returned to the garage who again fixed the problem using diagnostics, however within 10 miles the problem returned. The garage has said that the RR needs a new Valve Block at a price of £500 + labour.

Whilst I do not have any reason to doubt the prognosis, I wondered if anyone could advise if you can actually replace/repair the inlet valve in lieu of the whole block? I understand there is a valve for each wheel, a main inlet valve and an exhaust valve. I have been advised that you cannot replace the main inlet valve itself and you would need the whole block replaced. Is this the case?

Would it not be the Solenoid for the inlet valve at fault? Can I replace this part?

Any help or advise would be greatly appreciated.

Many Thanks
Click to expand...

The main inlet stuck open would not cause that problem on it's own. All the four individual corner valves would also have to be open. The valve block valves do not stick open, they are sprung shut unless energised. That problem would be caused either by a fault in the driver pack or more likely incorrect signals from height sensors. The valve block is an inanimate slave of the driver pack. Don't spend £500.00 on a valve block it does not need one.
 
Many thanks for all your swifts responses, couldn't quite believe it when i saw 5 replies within the hour, so thanks again.

Reading Wammers response and searching height sensors faults im convinced it must be these sensors at fault. When we bought the car it did have a slight nearside damage (wing and bumper only) so wondering if the sensor was damaged, and looking at the car tonight it does look like the nearside is slightly lower (only slightly). Also whilst my girlfriend left the RR parked today just before the fault returned again, she returned to the car to find the rear lower then the front.

Would you agree this all points towards the nearside front height sensor?

Is there anyway I can check if it is this sensor before replacing?

Thanks again for the responses, very much appreciated.
 
kingy12 said:
Many thanks for all your swifts responses, couldn't quite believe it when i saw 5 replies within the hour, so thanks again.

Reading Wammers response and searching height sensors faults im convinced it must be these sensors at fault. When we bought the car it did have a slight nearside damage (wing and bumper only) so wondering if the sensor was damaged, and looking at the car tonight it does look like the nearside is slightly lower (only slightly). Also whilst my girlfriend left the RR parked today just before the fault returned again, she returned to the car to find the rear lower then the front.

Would you agree this all points towards the nearside front height sensor?

Is there anyway I can check if it is this sensor before replacing?

Thanks again for the responses, very much appreciated.
Click to expand...

The biggest problem with the EAS is Leaks.Leaks at the valve block or leaks at one or more of the air suspension bags.These if not stopped lead to other issues such as the compressor over working and wearing out.
The diagnostics for the EAS do not always deliver exact fault code/statments.These are often just clues to point you in the right direction.
Do not change the height sensor until you have cured all leaks and then still have issues.
 
i would go for solenoid drive pack can be bought separately £150 i think easy to fit ,when reading faults height sensor allways comes up as vehicle often isnt sitting correctly through some other fault,ive had hieght sensor fault on test book but fault was leak front air spring
 
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Once you have your software and lead you will have some clues. As mentioned, it won't be obvious from the fault codes what the problem is though. As soon as you get these post them up and we will dissect. You can do a lot of work before hand by using a squishy bottle full of soapy water to check all the bags and connections. You should check at all hight settings as a leak may manifest itself at different nights. Once your sure the bags and air lines are good you can concentrate on the rest of the system. My advise would be to blow a few pounds on a block overhaul kit and a compressor seal and barrel. There not a lot of money. I've heard some reports that the Dutch compressor seals are not to hardy, so bear that in mind when shopping.
 
kingy12 said:
Many thanks for all your swifts responses, couldn't quite believe it when i saw 5 replies within the hour, so thanks again.

Reading Wammers response and searching height sensors faults im convinced it must be these sensors at fault. When we bought the car it did have a slight nearside damage (wing and bumper only) so wondering if the sensor was damaged, and looking at the car tonight it does look like the nearside is slightly lower (only slightly). Also whilst my girlfriend left the RR parked today just before the fault returned again, she returned to the car to find the rear lower then the front.

Would you agree this all points towards the nearside front height sensor?

Is there anyway I can check if it is this sensor before replacing?

Thanks again for the responses, very much appreciated.
Click to expand...

As I said, download the free EAS software and buy the lead, you will then be able to see clearly if it is a height sensor and which one, the fact that it sits lower on one corner suggests it might be that sensor but it could be other things.
The airbags will need replacing and you do need to check for leaks with soapy water in a spray bottle. Spray the whole of each airbag and all the pipe connections and look for bubbles.
At this stage I don't think it would be a good idea to replace the driver pack.
 
I would doubt the prognosis.

Stuck valve error is a red herring; start at the easy to change bits first, compressor seal, inlet and exhaust filters, check the air bags, check all the lines for leaks.

Don't go messing with the valve block and the drive pack till you have checked everything else.

The garage didn't clear the problem, they just cleared the error.
 
Looks like purchasing the lead is the way to go. I'm going to purchase the diagnostic lead from ebay, can anyone suggest the one to buy, the one from p38spares seems to be the best, however can anyone point me in the right direction.

There is a query I have, if the car hasn't dropped to the bump stops and has stayed at the highest setting since the fault reoccurred yesterday, it can't be air leak, or am I being stupid?

Thanks again for all the replies. Hopefully when I have fixed it, I'll post what solved it to help others.
 
kingy12 said:
Looks like purchasing the lead is the way to go. I'm going to purchase the diagnostic lead from ebay, can anyone suggest the one to buy, the one from p38spares seems to be the best, however can anyone point me in the right direction.

There is a query I have, if the car hasn't dropped to the bump stops and has stayed at the highest setting since the fault reoccurred yesterday, it can't be air leak, or am I being stupid?

Thanks again for all the replies. Hopefully when I have fixed it, I'll post what solved it to help others.
Click to expand...


It can still be leaking airbags, the splits open and close where they fold under at the bottom, just like a tyre, park with the wheel in one place and it goes down, rotate a bit and it stays up.

For the cable, try a PM to The Mad Hat Man, I seem to remember he offered cables.
 
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Datatek said:
It can still be leaking airbags, the splits open and close where they fold under at the bottom, just like a tyre, park with the wheel in one place and it goes down, rotate a bit and it stays up.

For the cable, try a PM to The Mad hatman, I seem to remeber he offered cables.
Click to expand...

He may sell them to you cheaper if you have an Halfrauds trade card.:D:D:D:behindsofa:
 
Datatek said:
I make my own so no need for a Halfrauds trade card, I've thought about making them for sale as it seems to be something that comes up often:D
Click to expand...

Ahhh, but if you make them over there Keith, they probably won't work in English :hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi
 
i cant see it being a leek if the fault is causing the height to rise
i personally would suspect a height sensor out of cal or playing up
reading low and trying to rise taking the others with it to compensate
then reaching over height and causing the fault
im not an expert on the eas system but seems a logical deduction
 
HU5SH said:
i cant see it being a leek if the fault is causing the height to rise
i personally would suspect a height sensor out of cal or playing up
reading low and trying to rise taking the others with it to compensate
then reaching over height and causing the fault
im not an expert on the eas system but seems a logical deduction
Click to expand...

He has 2 problems, dropping is likely to be a leaking airbag, the other problem is likely to be a height sensor, going up to max height is the response of the EAS to an out of range reading on a height sensor, or just possibly a driver pack failure, so basically, you concur with what has already been said:)
 
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