P38A EAS issue 35mph max, normal ride light only.

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Richdove said:
The side that can be seen has signs of green corrosion. I’ve contact cleaned and cycled the plug a few times, no joy, how does the plug come out to see the reverse side, I’ve depressed the side clips?
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Oooo this is a new one on me. Hope somebody comes up with a better suggestion but all I can think of is some 1200 grit sandpaper on the contacts followed by another good squirt of contact cleaner?
 
..... or maybe get another socket off ebay, cut off the corroded wires and solder on new wires to the car's harness cover with heat shrink and lead those to the new socket?
 
tomcat59alan said:
Think you've got to drop the panel,not a big job.you'll probably find the wires corroded.
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Yep, that’s what I thought. There are a couple of crossheads that look to be holding it in but they just spin so I’ll need to prize them out at the weekend. I’ll let you know how I get on over the weekend. Let’s hope it’s not the cable from p38spares. Thanks gents.
 
Richdove said:
Yep, that’s what I thought. There are a couple of crossheads that look to be holding it in but they just spin so I’ll need to prize them out at the weekend. I’ll let you know how I get on over the weekend. Let’s hope it’s not the cable from p38spares. Thanks gents.
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Those cross heads are centre pins in a plastic clip.I think I lightly turned then so the head protrudes then pulled them out.
 
yep they a plastic as mentioned turn a bit with out any pressure pushing then pull out, they can be a right fiddle.
 
Richdove said:
Well..... lead and software arrived, installed the drivers, got it plugged in, changed comm port in the drop down, hit initiate and the tx numbers stream but only pp in the first line on the tx side. I’ve plugged and unplugged and swapped ports but the same message. I had hoped to come back with some fault codes...... lead supplied by p38spares.
Any ideas?
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The USB drivers don't always install correctly unless you remove the windows driver first. First plug the cable in, and then try this;
  1. Open the Device Manager, and find the USB-Serial port.
  2. Right-click the USB serial, and then remove & delete driver. Also delete files if it offers.
  3. Next in File Explorer, find the correct driver supplied, and install that.
  4. Back in device manager check the USB serial has installed correctly.
  5. Open the device properties, and make sure Bits per Second=9600, Data=8, Parity=None, Stop=1.
  6. No re-open EAS-unlock and try again with the cleaned up diagnostic port.
 
pwood999 said:
The USB drivers don't always install correctly unless you remove the windows driver first. First plug the cable in, and then try this;
  1. Open the Device Manager, and find the USB-Serial port.
  2. Right-click the USB serial, and then remove & delete driver. Also delete files if it offers.
  3. Next in File Explorer, find the correct driver supplied, and install that.
  4. Back in device manager check the USB serial has installed correctly.
  5. Open the device properties, and make sure Bits per Second=9600, Data=8, Parity=None, Stop=1.
  6. No re-open EAS-unlock and try again with the cleaned up diagnostic port.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I’ll give it a go before I cut the OBD2 off and fit a new one. A question, if I perform step 5 now and get the same numbers do I need to go through step 1 to 5 then 6?
 
Richdove said:
Thanks, I’ll give it a go before I cut the OBD2 off and fit a new one. A question, if I perform step 5 now and get the same numbers do I need to go through step 1 to 5 then 6?
Click to expand...
You can try it. Depends what the driver installer configured for you. Assuming the connections on the diag connector are sorted first, the USB serial driver needs to match the chips used in the cable. FTDI hardware works well, but there's plenty of Chinese clones that vary a lot.
 
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