EAS - How long to repressurise?

do you have another jack supporting the axle? If not let the chassis down just enough to seat the airsprings top and bottom,without putting the whole weight of the car on them,and as i think was already said ,leave the door open while waiting for 10 or so mins for the tank to fill up.

Is the compressor still running?

wammers said:

I seat them with a little squirt of the airline. But then again not everyone has an airline.Think you need to look at your compressor.

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Yeah, I don't have an airline. Is it worth just replacing the compressor? With my level of skill (low to zip) I'm wondering what "looking at it" would entail.. It had a slow leak for a long time and letting it run with the door/tailgate open it doesn't shut off in 10 mins, or even 20 mins. In fact I got bored waiting and went inside, so it must be shagged right? Is it a tricky job to replace?

rodntod said:

do you have another jack supporting the axle? If not let the chassis down just enough to seat the airsprings top and bottom,without putting the whole weight of the car on them,and as i think was already said ,leave the door open while waiting for 10 or so mins for the tank to fill up.

Is the compressor still running?

Click to expand...

I have the chassis on stands and a jack under the axle to raise/lower as needed. So I'll try raising the axle up to the bottom of the springs, but it doesn't seem to line up too well. Any manipulation and the top goes all out of whack. /sigh

The compressor's always bloody running. I'm starting to wonder if that's what finally failed, making it impossible to recover from the slow leak. And now the leak's fixed (hopefully, by replacing the springs) there's no life left in the compressor to repressurise the system.

/double sigh

Do the test in the how to on your compressor then you would know and not have to think your making it hard for yourself, its a simple test if you can't do it get some one to do it for you, once you know you can decide to buy a new one or get a repair kit .if you feel you can't repair it buy a new one as long as you have tested the old one first !

Valiante said:

Yeah, I don't have an airline. Is it worth just replacing the compressor? With my level of skill (low to zip) I'm wondering what "looking at it" would entail.. It had a slow leak for a long time and letting it run with the door/tailgate open it doesn't shut off in 10 mins, or even 20 mins. In fact I got bored waiting and went inside, so it must be shagged right? Is it a tricky job to replace?


I have the chassis on stands and a jack under the axle to raise/lower as needed. So I'll try raising the axle up to the bottom of the springs, but it doesn't seem to line up too well. Any manipulation and the top goes all out of whack. /sigh

The compressor's always bloody running. I'm starting to wonder if that's what finally failed, making it impossible to recover from the slow leak. And now the leak's fixed (hopefully, by replacing the springs) there's no life left in the compressor to repressurise the system.

/double sigh

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You need at least a small amount of air pressure in the bags BEFORE you lower car. Otherwise they will not roll back over themselves as they should and you may damage them.

defender300td1 said:

Do the test in the how to on your compressor then you would know and not have to think your making it hard for yourself, its a simple test if you can't do it get some one to do it for you, once you know you can decide to buy a new one or get a repair kit .if you feel you can't repair it buy a new one as long as you have tested the old one first !

Click to expand...

I'd happily do the test, but there are some parts of the how-to I don't understand. For example "Remove inlet filter. Place finger over inlet." I'm afraid to say I don't know which bit the inlet is. "If no suction strip compressor and check piston seal and inlet/outlet valves in head." I neither know how to strip a compressor, or what a piston seal is.

wammers said:

You need at least a small amount of air pressure in the bags BEFORE you lower car. Otherwise they will not roll back over themselves as they should and you may damage them.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I read that somewhere (rangerovers.net I think) and so haven't put any weight on uninflated springs at any point. It's still on stands at the moment, with the axle supported by the jack. Until I can no longer squeeze the airsprings, I won't be letting the car off the stands.

Valiante said:

I'd happily do the test, but there are some parts of the how-to I don't understand. For example "Remove inlet filter. Place finger over inlet." I'm afraid to say I don't know which bit the inlet is. "If no suction strip compressor and check piston seal and inlet/outlet valves in head." I neither know how to strip a compressor, or what a piston seal is.


Yeah, I read that somewhere (rangerovers.net I think) and so haven't put any weight on uninflated springs at any point. It's still on stands at the moment, with the axle supported by the jack. Until I can no longer squeeze the airsprings, I won't be letting the car off the stands.

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Inlet filter is the round black thing on front of compressor. Exhaust filter is round white thing on inside of valve block at other end. Think you need to make a friend who knows what he is doing.

I'm beginning to think I should have just converted to coils. This is starting to feel like too much trouble and expense for such an old RR. I'll have soon spent more than the car's worth! That said, it was never so much about the expense (if it was I'd have bought Dunlops) but I'd at least like it to work after forking out £600 on new springs! At least if I converted to coils it's only going to cost me £350 and I'll have no issues with compressors, inlet valves or valve blocks which I don't understand. /triple sigh

I wonder if they'll take the springs back..

Valiante said:

I'd happily do the test, but there are some parts of the how-to I don't understand. For example "Remove inlet filter. Place finger over inlet." I'm afraid to say I don't know which bit the inlet is. "If no suction strip compressor and check piston seal and inlet/outlet valves in head." I neither know how to strip a compressor, or what a piston seal is.


Yeah, I read that somewhere (rangerovers.net I think) and so haven't put any weight on uninflated springs at any point. It's still on stands at the moment, with the axle supported by the jack. Until I can no longer squeeze the airsprings, I won't be letting the car off the stands.

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Well we are at a dead end then we can't help if you dont understand what's what get a rave manual read and learn or get help the inlet is the Black plastic foam
air intake filter screwed in the the end of the compressor,headlight end .Don't mean to be harsh but it's like banging ones head at wall .

Valiante said:

I'm beginning to think I should have just converted to coils. This is starting to feel like too much trouble and expense for such an old RR. I'll have soon spent more than the car's worth! That said, it was never so much about the expense (if it was I'd have bought Dunlops) but I'd at least like it to work after forking out £600 on new springs! At least if I converted to coils it's only going to cost me £350 and I'll have no issues with compressors, inlet valves or valve blocks which I don't understand. /triple sigh

I wonder if they'll take the springs back..

Click to expand...

Do the compressor test it maybe the diaphragm valve. If it is not that, you need to rebuild compressor or get a new one. You were told to get Dunlops but you took no notice, you could have had them and a new compressor for what you paid out. And had change. Four Dunlop air springs £224.98, new compressor £180.00 total £404.98. Change £195.02.

defender300td1 said:

Well we are at a dead end then we can't help if you dont understand what's what get a rave manual read and learn or get help the inlet is the Black plastic foam
air intake filter screwed in the the end of the compressor,headlight end .Don't mean to be harsh but it's like banging ones head at wall .

Click to expand...

Ha! RTFM. Brilliant. Can't tell you how many times a day I'd like to say that to my idiot users, so I feel your pain. Sorry for being so dense.

wammers said:

Do the compressor test it maybe the diaphragm valve. If it is not that, you need to rebuild compressor or get a new one. You were told to get Dunlops but you took no notice, you could have had them and a new compressor for what you paid out. And had change. Four Dunlop air springs £224.98, new compressor £180.00 total £404.98. Change £195.02.

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You're quite right, although to be fair I'd already bought the fronts before starting the thread, but I take your point.. it was my stubborn choice. But even without the expense, which isn't my main issue, it's still a lot of effort to get the system working on the old girl.. I'm just voicing my wonderment whether I made the right decision to even go down this road.

Don't mean to sound as though I'm complaining, and I want you to know I appreciate all your advice. I'm just frustrated at my own lack of competance and progress. Plus my two week old son is making me grouchier than normal.

Valiante said:

Ha! RTFM. Brilliant. Can't tell you how many times a day I'd like to say that to my idiot users, so I feel your pain. Sorry for being so dense.


You're quite right, although to be fair I'd already bought the fronts before starting the thread, but I take your point.. it was my stubborn choice. But even without the expense, which isn't my main issue, it's still a lot of effort to get the system working on the old girl.. I'm just voicing my wonderment whether I made the right decision to even go down this road.

Don't mean to sound as though I'm complaining, and I want you to know I appreciate all your advice. I'm just frustrated at my own lack of competance and progress. Plus my two week old son is making me grouchier than normal.

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Two week old sons will make anybody grouchy don't worry about it. There are lots of picture guides about that take you through things step by step. Look on RANGEROVERS.NET HOME for them.

Valiante said:

I'm beginning to think I should have just converted to coils. This is starting to feel like too much trouble and expense for such an old RR. I'll have soon spent more than the car's worth! That said, it was never so much about the expense (if it was I'd have bought Dunlops) but I'd at least like it to work after forking out £600 on new springs! At least if I converted to coils it's only going to cost me £350 and I'll have no issues with compressors, inlet valves or valve blocks which I don't understand. /triple sigh

I wonder if they'll take the springs back..

Click to expand...

I would imagine if you have managed to replace the airsprings by yourself you will be more than capable of repairing or replacing the compressor.
There is a video somewhere(could be on here ,you tube or the rsw website) that shows you the compressor removal and testing,and having done my own i can assure you it is a very easy job with minimal tools required.
And for under 30 quid you might be able to resurrect you compressor

Thanks guys. That's given me some renewed enthusiasm for the task at hand. I'll hunt down an illustrated guide and break out my Rave manual (yes I have it already)

Will report back soon, hopefully with something positive!

Well, here's a turn up for the books.. someone's been here before. Took the compressor housing cover off to find a very new-looking compressor, two missing brass mounts and some slightly dodgy wiring.

See the date stamp on the compressor:


And it looks like the wire which goes to the orange wire on the compressor has been cut and taped off!


Also the two basic tests show me that there's no suction on the inlet (at least none that I can feel) and I can easily hold my finger over the outlet (sans blue pipe) - there's very little pressure behind it, I doubt it would blow up a balloon.

So a 2-year-old compressor is knackered! Still, should hopefully make it more likely that I'll be able to repair it, and explains why it lasted so long with the leak.

I guess I'd better start stripping it down.. Eek.

Stripped down.. sufficed to say I've found the problem:


I'm assuming this is the "piston seal" ?

Also, which bit's the diaphragm? Is it the cardboardy bit just inside the inlet? I can't see anything else which might fit the description of a diaphragm. If that's it, it looks perfectly intact, so I'm thinking just the piston bit is the problem. Just need to find somewhere to get that part from now I guess.

Valiante said:

Well, here's a turn up for the books.. someone's been here before. Took the compressor housing cover off to find a very new-looking compressor, two missing brass mounts and some slightly dodgy wiring.

See the date stamp on the compressor:

And it looks like the wire which goes to the orange wire on the compressor has been cut and taped off!

Also the two basic tests show me that there's no suction on the inlet (at least none that I can feel) and I can easily hold my finger over the outlet (sans blue pipe) - there's very little pressure behind it, I doubt it would blow up a balloon.

So a 2-year-old compressor is knackered! Still, should hopefully make it more likely that I'll be able to repair it, and explains why it lasted so long with the leak.

I guess I'd better start stripping it down.. Eek.

Click to expand...

Stripping compressor is easy. 8mm or 5/16 AF socket, 3/16" and 1/8" Allen keys. Remove backplate and cylinder head with top plate, take care of seals. Pull cylinder out, you can then check the piston seal. To replace piston seal. First cut as much of old seal as you can away with a Stanley knife then with blunt screwdriver slowly and progressively prise the retaining ring off the piston crown. Gently clean any burrs with a fine file. fit new seal and press retainer back into position making sure seal is firmly gripped.. I like to put four pop marks around piston to ensure security. To remove piston and crank assembly to do this take out 3/16" allen screw from side of compressor. Turn crank and engage 1/8" allen key through hole into crank until it is fully engaged in crank retaining screw. Most are 1/8" but whatever you do make sure you have a correctly fitting allen key and it is full engaged. No sloppy fit or you may strip retaining screw head then you are knackered. Put a small tube on allen key and apply steady pressure to undo. No need to remove screw completely, just back it off a couple of turns. Then with a flat screwdriver prise crank off shaft gently turning as you go to different positions.
To check inlet and exhaust reeds, first make sure they are intact. New ones can be made from suitable thickness shim stock. Inlet reed must sit flat against head with no gap. Hold it up to a light to check this, if not flat to head remove clean adjust and refit. A little stud lock on screw. Exhaust valve must sit flat on O ring. I have seen Dunlop compressors were this O ring has dropped out of it's seat. This because the retainer on top of the exhaust reed has been badly set at the factory. You will more than likely get a new O ring with your seal kit. Use a small amount of RTV silicone to stick it in position. Clean any excess off it's face. Refit reed valve making sure it sits square on O ring with a gap of about 1.5 mm at the toe of the retainer nearest the O ring. With a little stud lock on the screw. These retainers are to prevent excess flexing of the reed valves to stop them breaking. When all that is done reassemble compressor and test. Cylinder is placed back over piston seal by presenting it at an angle to engage, then rotating back straight up. Hope that helps.

Valiante said:

Stripped down.. sufficed to say I've found the problem:

I'm assuming this is the "piston seal" ?

Also, which bit's the diaphragm? Is it the cardboardy bit just inside the inlet? I can't see anything else which might fit the description of a diaphragm. If that's it, it looks perfectly intact, so I'm thinking just the piston bit is the problem. Just need to find somewhere to get that part from now I guess.

Click to expand...

That is stuffed change it. Diaphragm valve is at other end of valve block not on compressor. Forget about that for now.Get the compressor sorted and see what you have. Look for scores and marks on cylinder if any fit a new one.

PS Why is there oil evident in compressor should not be any in there at all it should be dry?

Blimey.. detailed! Thanks. Already stripped down and found dodgy piston seal (see previous post) but the rest of that should come in handy when I get the new bits. Cheers!

Found a great post here with piccies which was a big help too, for anyone else who might come across this thread looking for tips.

Valiante said:

Found a great post here with piccies which was a big help too, for anyone else who might come across this thread looking for tips.

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Yep think that is where i said to go for piccies. See you can do it.