EAS Fault - P38 1999

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J

Josh Wiggill

Member
Posts
38
Location
Hereford
Hi guys,

EAS not rising. I have checked for continuity on the thermal switch and that is operating as it should be however, I have no continuity on the pressure switch, even after it’s been run for 30 minuets. The pump doesn’t always switch on by itself sometimes I have to bridge it. I can sometimes take the bridge out and it will run there after and other times it won’t. Yesterday the EASUnlock Software said ‘Presssure Constantly Low’. Today it is saying RR Valve stuck closed. I have no leaks in the system, these have already been weeded out. A new compressor makes no difference. I can’t get her to raise at all. Does this sound like it’s defiantly the pressure switch?

I have taken the Valve Block apart as well and found the diaphragm looking like this. A new one has been ordered but would this cause my issue?
 

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That white powder looks like the dessicant in the dryer has broken down and been sucked throughout the valve block. Needs clearing out and a new dryer. It would explain the rust too. Shouldn't be any moisture in there.
 
As above the system is contaminated with desiccant, the valve block will need to be stripped and cleaned. It also looks like the diaphragm has failed which would certainly stop it rising.
 
Datatek said:
As above the system is contaminated with desiccant, the valve block will need to be stripped and cleaned. It also looks like the diaphragm has failed which would certainly stop it rising.
Click to expand...
Hi there,

I have cleaned the valve block, rebuilt it and had a replaced the compressor and that was looking far from healthy. The pump will not start of its own accord. I can start it using the EASunlock diagnostic software and it will exhaust out once the tank is full. I can then switch it if but it still won’t rise. I can activate the solenoids through the diag software (I can hear them all clicking) however she still will not rise which ever way I try.

I am starting to think maybe the driver pack is at fault? No leaks in the system been through with a fine tooth comb and can’t find any leaks now. All college have been replaced as well. At a loss with it now.

I have a brake switch fault that has piped up that I’m going to replace tonight. It’s possible this could be causing it as the suspension won’t rise when the brake peddle is held on, could this also be a feasible problem?
 
Josh Wiggill said:
Hi there,

I have cleaned the valve block, rebuilt it and had a replaced the compressor and that was looking far from healthy. The pump will not start of its own accord. I can start it using the EASunlock diagnostic software and it will exhaust out once the tank is full. I can then switch it if but it still won’t rise. I can activate the solenoids through the diag software (I can hear them all clicking) however she still will not rise which ever way I try.

I am starting to think maybe the driver pack is at fault? No leaks in the system been through with a fine tooth comb and can’t find any leaks now. All college have been replaced as well. At a loss with it now.

I have a brake switch fault that has piped up that I’m going to replace tonight. It’s possible this could be causing it as the suspension won’t rise when the brake peddle is held on, could this also be a feasible problem?
Click to expand...
The suspension is locked with the brakes on or a door open, it also will not rise if there is a fault logged.
 
Datatek said:
The suspension is locked with the brakes on or a door open, it also will not rise if there is a fault logged.
Click to expand...
So brake switch changed out for a known working one and no difference. No faults logged either, all doors, boot and bonnet closed. Still no rising action from the beast
 
Josh Wiggill said:
Hi there,

I have cleaned the valve block, rebuilt it and had a replaced the compressor and that was looking far from healthy. The pump will not start of its own accord. I can start it using the EASunlock diagnostic software and it will exhaust out once the tank is full. I can then switch it if but it still won’t rise. I can activate the solenoids through the diag software (I can hear them all clicking) however she still will not rise which ever way I try.

I am starting to think maybe the driver pack is at fault? No leaks in the system been through with a fine tooth comb and can’t find any leaks now. All college have been replaced as well. At a loss with it now.

I have a brake switch fault that has piped up that I’m going to replace tonight. It’s possible this could be causing it as the suspension won’t rise when the brake peddle is held on, could this also be a feasible problem?
Click to expand...

If pump will run on diag but not on its own then thermal switch probably fried. Can get them off eBay pretty cheap. Item in Wammer's How To in the Technical Section.
 
Grrrrrr said:
If pump will run on diag but not on its own then thermal switch probably fried. Can get them off eBay pretty cheap. Item in Wammer's How To in the Technical Section.
Click to expand...
Thermal switch is good, checked for continuity and there is. It’s a brand new pump so would hope it’s not been fried.
 
The connectors in the EAS box are a known to give trouble with the contacts becoming loose over time and so not making good contact especially the connector under the valve block.
A complete failure of the driver pack would be unusual but is not impossible, unless you have a scope, the only real way to check is by substitution. The EAS ECU is also very reliable but there have been failures reported.
I can't remember, have you checked the white connectors at the foot of the A post in the passenger footwell?
 
Datatek said:
The connectors in the EAS box are a known to give trouble with the contacts becoming loose over time and so not making good contact especially the connector under the valve block.
A complete failure of the driver pack would be unusual but is not impossible, unless you have a scope, the only real way to check is by substitution. The EAS ECU is also very reliable but there have been failures reported.
I can't remember, have you checked the white connectors at the foot of the A post in the passenger footwell?
Click to expand...
White connectors have been checked and they are tight with each other. How would you go about check loose connectors, I assume using something small enough to wiggle in there to see how tight they are?
 
Josh Wiggill said:
White connectors have been checked and they are tight with each other. How would you go about check loose connectors, I assume using something small enough to wiggle in there to see how tight they are?
Click to expand...
White connectors "being tight with one another" means nothing if there are traces of corrosion between the pins. The only certain way the eliminate them as a potential problem is to cut the connectors out one wire at a time solde the ends together and insulate with glue filled heat shrink.
The receptacles in the EAS box connectors can be removed from the housing, remove the yellow insert and the with a small screw driver the latch can be pushed back to release the receptacle, they can be tightened by gently squeezing with small pliers. do them one at a time.
 
If you can hear each solenoid clicking when activated by diags, then driver pack is probably ok. It the tank really filling ? You need to get the pump running under normal ECU operation, which means no faults logged & good thermal switch & relay. The same feed also operates the diaphragm valve, which must close when pump is running, or tank will not fill.

Bypass valve are useful for checking the air bags for leaks, but not great longer term. Mine also leak, so not good for more than an hour or two.
 
pwood999 said:
If you can hear each solenoid clicking when activated by diags, then driver pack is probably ok. It the tank really filling ? You need to get the pump running under normal ECU operation, which means no faults logged & good thermal switch & relay. The same feed also operates the diaphragm valve, which must close when pump is running, or tank will not fill.

Bypass valve are useful for checking the air bags for leaks, but not great longer term. Mine also leak, so not good for more than an hour or two.
Click to expand...
I made valves using second had valve bodies from truck tyres donated FOC by the local truck tyre place, they stand much higher pressures than bicycle valves, 4 couplers cost me about €2. They don't leak:)
 
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