EAS Fault "Max Speed 35mph"

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2

2kelly

New Member
Posts
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Hi, really need some help!

Now my car is sitting on it's bump stops with the "max speed 35mph", I have tried everything I can think of to fix it but no luck.

I have checked:
No air leaks
Heat sensor (working)
Temp switch (working)
I have checked all wiring for loose connections or corrosion
Compressor works but only by using the EASunlock system, I cant seem to clear the faults with this ( the computer is working correctly, am using the correct comms & Fx = FF & 1, Rx = FF).

I have double checked everything.

Any help would be much appreciated.
 
2kelly said:
Hi, really need some help!

Now my car is sitting on it's bump stops with the "max speed 35mph", I have tried everything I can think of to fix it but no luck.

I have checked:
No air leaks How have you checked ? Soapy water ?
Heat sensor (working)
Temp switch (working)
I have checked all wiring for loose connections or corrosion Again how ? With a meter ? Any 'codes' ?
Compressor works but only by using the EASunlock system, I cant seem to clear the faults with this ( the computer is working correctly, am using the correct comms & Fx = FF & 1, Rx = FF).

I have double checked everything.

Any help would be much appreciated.
Click to expand...

Someone much more experienced will be along soon :eek:
in the mean time, please say; What you did and how you did it, it'll save some misunderstanding later ...
and what happened when the vehicle went down ?
or did it not rise when you started it ?
 
The temp sensor on my last compressor was fine, apparently, when tested on the bench. New compressor went in and it worked correctly which means the previous temp sensor was knackered.

Turns out it was switching at a much lower temp.

Do you have any diagnostics?
 
I have checked for air leaks using Air Leak Detection Fluid (soapy water).
I checked the compressor overheat sensor for continuity.
I checked the compressor pressure sensor for continuity.
I bridged the relay to test the compressor.
All relative fuses have been checked.
I checked all underseat wiring (BeCM & EAS ECU) visually for signs for corrosion to pins.
All the above 'appears' to be OK.

Since owning the car all four air springs have been replaced, the valve block and compressor have both been rebuilt and all has been working fine until now.

After a bit of online research I decided to purchase the EASunlock software and leads to clear the fault.

With the lap top plugged in and the EASunlock software live I can start the car and the suspension will work as it should (goes up & down) but the compressor does not run. The compressor will run if I switch "pump on".
I then press "unlock eas", and the "slow 35mph" fault disappears from the vehicles display, I then press "stop" and it comes back. I then switch the ignition off, pull the plug from the laptop. When the ignition is switched back on the "slow 35mph" fault appears instantly.
As ever, I'm sure the problem is a relatively simple one, I'm just not seeing it right now and need someone to point me in the right direction.
 
2kelly said:
Hi, really need some help!

Now my car is sitting on it's bump stops with the "max speed 35mph", I have tried everything I can think of to fix it but no luck.

I have checked:
No air leaks
Heat sensor (working)
Temp switch (working)
I have checked all wiring for loose connections or corrosion
Compressor works but only by using the EASunlock system, I cant seem to clear the faults with this ( the computer is working correctly, am using the correct comms & Fx = FF & 1, Rx = FF).

I have double checked everything.

Any help would be much appreciated.
Click to expand...
If you can make the compressor run, I assume you are getting the green "Good Idle" button?
What do you mean by "Heat sensor" and "Temp Switch"??
If the thermal trip has failed in the compressor, it will run from diagnostics but not under control of the EAS ECU.
When you start the EAS software, RX should give something like D0; D1; D2, can never remember exactly, FF comes after that.
What did you get when you tried to read the faults? No point in clearing faults before you know what the faults are.
 
2kelly said:
I have checked for air leaks using Air Leak Detection Fluid (soapy water).
I checked the compressor overheat sensor for continuity.
I checked the compressor pressure sensor for continuity.
I bridged the relay to test the compressor.
All relative fuses have been checked.
I checked all underseat wiring (BeCM & EAS ECU) visually for signs for corrosion to pins.
All the above 'appears' to be OK.

Since owning the car all four air springs have been replaced, the valve block and compressor have both been rebuilt and all has been working fine until now.

After a bit of online research I decided to purchase the EAS unlock software and leads to clear the fault.

With the lap top plugged in and the EASunlock software live I can start the car and the suspension will work as it should (goes up & down) but the compressor does not run. The compressor will run if I switch "pump on".
I then press "unlock eas", and the "slow 35mph" fault disappears from the vehicles display, I then press "stop" and it comes back. I then switch the ignition off, pull the plug from the laptop. When the ignition is switched back on the "slow 35mph" fault appears instantly.
As ever, I'm sure the problem is a relatively simple one, I'm just not seeing it right now and need someone to point me in the right direction.
Click to expand...
OK you posted at the same time as me.
No point in just clearing the faults, you need to read them first so you know what triggered the problem.
 
Datatek said:
If you can make the compressor run, I assume you are getting the green "Good Idle" button?
What do you mean by "Heat sensor" and "Temp Switch"??
If the thermal trip has failed in the compressor, it will run from diagnostics but not under control of the EAS ECU.
When you start the EAS software, RX should give something like D0; D1; D2, can never remember exactly, FF comes after that.
What did you get when you tried to read the faults? No point in clearing faults before you know what the faults are.
Click to expand...

Yes, I am getting "Good Idle"
Sorry, I meant Overheat sensor and Pressure switch not temp switch, sorry for confusion.
Faults are as follows:

3: Pressure signal constantly low
4: Air supply fault
5: Air supply leak
6: Target heights incorrect
7: Vehicle has moved
1: Cannot lower FR
3: Cannot lower RR
4: FA:16_Hidden
5: FA:32_Hidden
6: FA:64_Hidden
7: FA:128_Hidden
0: FL valve stuck open
1: FR valve stuck open
3: RR valve stuck open
4: Inlet valve stuck open
5: Exhaust valve stuck open
6: FB:64_Hidden
7: FB:128_Hidden
2: RL valve stuck closed
3: RR valve stuck closed
4: Inlet valve stuck closed
5: Exhaust valve stuck closed
6: FC:64_Hidden
7: FC:128_Hidden

I have no idea what any of them mean but i'm sure I havent got 24 problems as the car was fine one minute and not the next !!
Can anyone notice any faults there that stand out as being problematic ??
Thanks again..
 
2kelly said:
Yes, I am getting "Good Idle"
Sorry, I meant Overheat sensor and Pressure switch not temp switch, sorry for confusion.
Faults are as follows:

3: Pressure signal constantly low
4: Air supply fault
5: Air supply leak
6: Target heights incorrect
7: Vehicle has moved
1: Cannot lower FR
3: Cannot lower RR
4: FA:16_Hidden
5: FA:32_Hidden
6: FA:64_Hidden
7: FA:128_Hidden
0: FL valve stuck open
1: FR valve stuck open
3: RR valve stuck open
4: Inlet valve stuck open
5: Exhaust valve stuck open
6: FB:64_Hidden
7: FB:128_Hidden
2: RL valve stuck closed
3: RR valve stuck closed
4: Inlet valve stuck closed
5: Exhaust valve stuck closed
6: FC:64_Hidden
7: FC:128_Hidden

I have no idea what any of them mean but i'm sure I havent got 24 problems as the car was fine one minute and not the next !!
Can anyone notice any faults there that stand out as being problematic ??
Thanks again..
Click to expand...
That list means you do not have communication with the EAS You cannot have a valve stuck open and stuck closed at the same time.
Are you using a USB to serial adaptor? Is your cable a USB version? If either of the foregoing, did you install the USB driver provided BEFORE you plugged the adaptor or cable in? Which version of Windows are you using?
 
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