EAS Enigma - any ideas?

Hi everyone; owner of a 1998 P38 4.0HE on LPG. I've been a member for a while but I have had nothing to report; my P38 was working nicely and I don't know enough about the Rangey yet to help anyone else.

Now I have a problem with the EAS that is baffling me. For a little while the back has settled a bit overnight but quickly comes back up when I start her up. I bought the ASW lead and ran the software, connected fine and only 1 fault code; 'Vehicle has Moved' but I have checked several times with the squirty spray and have never found a leak anywhere.

Now for the big one; just before Christmas I drove several miles to a rail station and the rear lowered on the stops, quickly followed by the front - an uncomfortable journey, I can tell you. However, there were no warnings on the display. Nothing at all. The 'up' light blinks on the EAS display but just continues to blink, no fault appears on the message display.

I have run the AWS software again. Again, even though the EAS is not pumping up, the only faul code shown was 'Vehicle has Moved'. The suspension is on the bump stops, the pump is not running but no Faults are reported! I tried unlocking the EAS but nothing happened; it is as if the EAS does not know there's a problem.

Thinking the problem might be with the pump, I have commanded it ON with the AWS software and it runs fine. I ran it for 10 minutes with ignition on but engine not running, hoping to get the tank to pressurise so that when I started the engine the air bags would come up, but nothing.

I have checked Fuse 44 and relay 20, both work fine. The pump runs when commanded with the software but not otherwise. All four corners remain on the bump stops, the EAS display just blinks normally as if it is pumping up but does not do so, and there are still no fault codes.

I'm totally flummoxed now but I know that there some real experts here; any ideas?

First thing check that pump is making good air. Second, if it is, check there is no air coming from exhaust port whilst pump is running. Then get back saying what you have found. Pump will not run with just ignition engine has to be running.

Check that the compressor inlet filter is not blocked and check that you have pressure at the blue outlet pipe.
I suspect you have a fairly bad leak at the rear somewhere and that has knackered the pump. Is your exhaust OK? a small blow in the exhaust has been known to melt the air lines to the rear. Otherwise a leaking airbag, the leaks open and close as the bags fold under at the bottom and sometimes can be hard to spot.

Blimey! Quick response guys - thanks!
Wammers - yep, I'll check output and exhaust and get back to you.
Datatek - yes, I have checked the filter; I'll check the pump output first and then check the airlines.

Grimble said:

Blimey! Quick response guys - thanks!
Wammers - yep, I'll check output and exhaust and get back to you.
Datatek - yes, I have checked the filter; I'll check the pump output first and then check the airlines.

Click to expand...

Where in Lancs are you mate?

Wammers,
Strangely, the pump is working now; the last time I checked I was certain that the pump was not working. I've taken the blue connector off and checked the output of the pump. It's strong, I think; I can't stop the pressure with my thumb. Taking off the inlet filter has no effect so that's not blocked. The pump is not clattering or making any undue noise. It looks new, dated 2002.
I'm not sure where the exhaust is so I couldn't check that. I thought it would be obvious, but I couldn't find it.

Grimble said:

Wammers,
Strangely, the pump is working now; the last time I checked I was certain that the pump was not working. I've taken the blue connector off and checked the output of the pump. It's strong, I think; I can't stop the pressure with my thumb. Taking off the inlet filter has no effect so that's not blocked. The pump is not clattering or making any undue noise. It looks new, dated 2002.
I'm not sure where the exhaust is so I couldn't check that. I thought it would be obvious, but I couldn't find it.

Click to expand...

Look towards scuttle end of valve block inside towards engine there is a white filter. Unscrew it, with pump running put your finger over outlet there should be no air coming out. If there is the diaphragm valve is split. Or the diaphragm solenoid valve is not working. That is the last valve on top of valve block above filter. It is much more likely to be the diaphragm split. Let me know what you find.

Excellent, thanks Wammers.

I really appreciate your time on this. I feel as if I'm getting somewhere now, rather than just scratching my head.

I'll check it tomorrow morning and report back.

Sorry Wammers, I just saw your second post - I'm in Oldham.

Wammers,
Bit of a delay here; had to remove the LPG controller from the throttle support bracket before I could get to the exhaust port.

And yes - you were quite right. While the pump is running there is almost as much air coming through the exhaust port as there is on the pump; in fact there seems to be more pressure because it makes a trumpet sound if I try to shut off the flow with my finger!

Does this mean I need a new valve block? What is your recommendation?

Grimble said:

Wammers,
Bit of a delay here; had to remove the LPG controller from the throttle support bracket before I could get to the exhaust port.

And yes - you were quite right. While the pump is running there is almost as much air coming through the exhaust port as there is on the pump; in fact there seems to be more pressure because it makes a trumpet sound if I try to shut off the flow with my finger!

Does this mean I need a new valve block? What is your recommendation?

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No the diaphragm is more than likely split. You will need a new one and to strip that end of block to fit it. Very easy job. You will get an OEM one from Island 4x4 for around £27.00 or they are on eBay for around £14.00.
You will of course have to strip block to comfirm this before you order a new one. Other reason this could happen is fault on diaphragm solenoid valve which opens when compressor is running to supply pressure from tank through the small 4mm pipe to back of diaphragm to seal exhaust. But that problem is rare. Far more likely to be failed diaphragm.

Tried to put a pic on did not work for some reason

still on yo computer

wammers - coz yu need to upload it in the "advanced" edit mode.

This is brilliant, Wammers. You diagnosed it in one!

I'm thinking I'll get the diaphragm kit without checking the block first because even if it's the other thing I would change the diaphragm while I was there.

Were you posting a picture? If you could point me to a page showing the diaphragm replacement I would be very grateful.

Would the faulty diaphragm account for the suspension 'settling' slightly overnight - or should I get a complete O ring and seal kit and do the whole block while I'm at it?

Cheers m8

Grimble said:

This is brilliant, Wammers. You diagnosed it in one!

I'm thinking I'll get the diaphragm kit without checking the block first because even if it's the other thing I would change the diaphragm while I was there.

Were you posting a picture? If you could point me to a page showing the diaphragm replacement I would be very grateful.

Would the faulty diaphragm account for the suspension 'settling' slightly overnight - or should I get a complete O ring and seal kit and do the whole block while I'm at it?

Cheers m8

Click to expand...

www.rangerovers.net look for common repairs, then Suspension, valve block repairs. All is explained there. You could do the lot if you want to. Just be careful to get everything back in the same place. Mark all the valve positions. All is explained on the web site i quoted. Good luck.

Thanks Wammers. I've gone for the diaphragm kit for now so that I can get her off the bump-stops; I ordered one this afternoon. Once it's in and the suspension is up again I'll assess how the EAS behaves; if is still settling overnight then I'll go for the seal kit and do that next.

I've seen those pages thanks, and it seems fairly straightforward. Once it's done I'll report back with the result, but it won't be until after the BH weekend.

Happy New Year everyone! (in 7 hours time)

Success!! The new diaphragm finally arrived this afternoon - bloody Post Office took 4 days to deliver a First Class packet - and I whipped out the valve block as per instructions. When I first saw the diaphragm I thought it was okay, but when I pulled it out of the cap it just fell to peices in my hand; the central metal part was detached from the diaphragm! All back in again now and the old girl rose majestically off the bump stops for the first time in a fortnight.
Thanks very much to Datatek and expecially to Wammers - you are the business!

Grimble said:

Success!! The new diaphragm finally arrived this afternoon - bloody Post Office took 4 days to deliver a First Class packet - and I whipped out the valve block as per instructions. When I first saw the diaphragm I thought it was okay, but when I pulled it out of the cap it just fell to peices in my hand; the central metal part was detached from the diaphragm! All back in again now and the old girl rose majestically off the bump stops for the first time in a fortnight.
Thanks very much to Datatek and expecially to Wammers - you are the business!

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No problem mate. If you feel like making a donation send to. The Hooded Claw Rangie fund, Swingers corner, Gimp Street, Fleetwood Lancs.

wammers said:

No problem mate. If you feel like making a donation send to. The Hooded Claw Rangie fund, Swingers corner, Gimp Street, Fleetwood Lancs.

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Nah, he'll waste it on the Volvo Donate to the Landyzone site at
User CP

Wammers - does the Hooded Claw do PayPal, LOL?

Datatek - thanks for the suggestion - I never noticed the 'Donate' heading before. I have made a donation.

Grimble said:

Wammers - does the Hooded Claw do PayPal, LOL?

Datatek - thanks for the suggestion - I never noticed the 'Donate' heading before. I have made a donation.

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Not Paypal, but J told me he will do anything that moves or is still warm.