EAS emergency bypass parts ?

chopper007 · Jan 17, 2015

I'm sure Wammers will be reading this.. ( hi mate )...
after all my issues, and wanting to feel a bit safer on longer drives in the winter..

i'm thinking about putting a Bypass system on while i'm on the re-build / re-furb of the system..
seen them online / ebay and people want £75 upwards.. surely, this is just some 6mm pipe, some push-fit connectors and 4 valves ?

tried looking on the forum, but can't see anything...

has anyone ordered parts 'off the shelf' and done this ?
if so, could you post a list of needed parts / supplier.. and or even a quick drawing on how to build and connect... could be a useful addition in the ' how to' section maybe....

as ever, thanks for the time and Sarky comments

C

mgmayo · Jan 17, 2015

this is one el cheapo option http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/p...failure-159044.html?highlight=prepare+failure

Grrrrrr · Jan 17, 2015

chopper007 said:
I'm sure Wammers will be reading this.. ( hi mate )...
after all my issues, and wanting to feel a bit safer on longer drives in the winter..

i'm thinking about putting a Bypass system on while i'm on the re-build / re-furb of the system..
seen them online / ebay and people want £75 upwards.. surely, this is just some 6mm pipe, some push-fit connectors and 4 valves ?

tried looking on the forum, but can't see anything...

has anyone ordered parts 'off the shelf' and done this ?
if so, could you post a list of needed parts / supplier.. and or even a quick drawing on how to build and connect... could be a useful addition in the ' how to' section maybe....

as ever, thanks for the time and Sarky comments

C

Damn right!

6mm push-fit T pieces, 4 schrader valves and a bit of hose. Most of the bits on eBay are chinese crap and the joints leak like hell. You just pull the four lines to the bags out of the valve-block, put the T pieces on the end of the lines, a bit of pipe to connect back up to the block and then the valve on a bit of line on the spare junction. To be honest you'd probably do better just using a straight join with a bit of pipe and a valve on and then just connect to the end of the bag-line if the worst comes to the worst.

I got a whole load of quality stuff from Activ-Air in Aylesbury but they have other branches I think. I walked in and they gave me the hose for free as they have loads of off-cuts. They do a lot of work for the aerospace industry so quality gear.

To be fair I also keep a spare compressor in the boot. You can get knackered ones off eBay and fix them or talk to KurtJohnson and see if he can source one for you.

tomcat59alan · Jan 17, 2015

No sarky comments just advice, sort out what you have been told and you will not need the bypass kit

chopper007 · Jan 17, 2015

I like the sarky comments, interspersed with handy advice of course !!

tomcat59alan · Jan 17, 2015

chopper007 said:
I like the sarky comments, interspersed with handy advice of course !!

You will like this site then. I have owned my 38 for nearly 10 yrs now and NEVER needed a bypass system. Get it sorted and keep it maintained is my advice.

chopper007 · Jan 17, 2015

Trying my best tbh. Starting rebuild no. 5 tomorrow afternoon. 2nd set of new o rings.
Just can't get the block leak free....
Although slowly chipping away. Last week it was all bump stops after 4 hrs. Now i just have a couple of 'naughty' corners....

tomcat59alan · Jan 17, 2015

chopper007 said:
Trying my best tbh. Starting rebuild no. 5 tomorrow afternoon. 2nd set of new o rings.
Just can't get the block leak free....
Although slowly chipping away. Last week it was all bump stops after 4 hrs. Now i just have a couple of 'naughty' corners....

When you stripped the block down did you blow through all the air drillings to make sure they are clear. I used an ultrasonic cleaner when I did mine.

chopper007 · Jan 17, 2015

I thought id done a really slow good careful job. Tbh mechanics of any kind arnt my strong point. So was taking great care.
Anyhow one more try tomorrow. Different kind of O ring, also doing the Air dryer.. And fingers crossed. Because im at my whits end. This all started because of alot of ' faults' jumping to wade height, dumping or air and associated errors. Meaning I couldn't drive more than 30 miles without being stranded on bump stops and needing the laptop ! So a change of driver pack, along with a rebuild was my solution, as part of this whole thing i also removed and hard wired / soldered the White connectors in the passenger foot well.

tomcat59alan · Jan 17, 2015

chopper007 said:
I thought id done a really slow good careful job. Tbh mechanics of any kind arnt my strong point. So was taking great care.
Anyhow one more try tomorrow. Different kind of O ring, also doing the Air dryer.. And fingers crossed. Because im at my whits end. This all started because of alot of ' faults' jumping to wade height, dumping or air and associated errors. Meaning I couldn't drive more than 30 miles without being stranded on bump stops and needing the laptop ! So a change of driver pack, along with a rebuild was my solution, as part of this whole thing i also removed and hard wired / soldered the White connectors in the passenger foot well.

The desiccant in the air dryer breaks up and can be ingested into the valve block, take the exhaust silencer off and see if any white powder comes out of it. Worth blowing the block through or cleaning it. Someone on here used their dish washer

dogsbody · Jan 18, 2015

chopper007 said:
I thought id done a really slow good careful job. Tbh mechanics of any kind arnt my strong point. So was taking great care.
Anyhow one more try tomorrow. Different kind of O ring, also doing the Air dryer.. And fingers crossed. Because im at my whits end. This all started because of alot of ' faults' jumping to wade height, dumping or air and associated errors. Meaning I couldn't drive more than 30 miles without being stranded on bump stops and needing the laptop ! So a change of driver pack, along with a rebuild was my solution, as part of this whole thing i also removed and hard wired / soldered the White connectors in the passenger foot well.

You could try asking for help. Someone else on her might be willing to rebuild your block, test it and return it for a few beer tokens.

But not me, I can hardly find my bench at the moment with other, non-Rangie jobs.
And you're a bit far to borrow my spare.

chopper007 · Jan 18, 2015

I did put out a shout to see if anyone was in west yorkshire. But dosent appear there is.
wammers gave me plenty more tips though. So we will see how todays effort stands.
Everything crossed

Datatek · Jan 18, 2015

I made a set of emergency inflation valves for a couple of quid. Go to a truck tyre place and scrounge 4 used schrader valves, cut off the threaded lump that goes in the wheel, then off to the local pneumatic supplier for 4 couplers, 6mm one end, other end to fit the valve. Job done.

Gadgetz · Jan 18, 2015

Hi pal. I have a bypass kit on mine. It was on when I bought it but whoever did it has used a short length of 1"x1" steel angle bead (bout 4/5" long) , drilled it to hold the valves and screwed it to the side of the compressor box. Keeps them tidy and easier to put an airline on. Context pneumatics in Bolton carry everything in stock and cheap too, elbows and tees etc around 80p each.
I commented on your previous post about the elbows under the rear wheel arch. I now think that mine aren't standard. I replaced mine yesterday and had trouble with the collets to the bag leaking so used the aire bag how to to see if there was another way to access them. Lo and behold, the pics had no elbows on them. The airline went straight to the collet. So, I apologise if you spent any time looking for said elbows.😀 moral of story, homework first before you play out. Surprised non of the gurus picked up on it though. Missed out on an opportunity to tell someone off.😆
Hope you get it sorted pal.

Datatek · Jan 18, 2015

Gadgetz said:
Hi pal. I have a bypass kit on mine. It was on when I bought it but whoever did it has used a short length of 1"x1" steel angle bead (bout 4/5" long) , drilled it to hold the valves and screwed it to the side of the compressor box. Keeps them tidy and easier to put an airline on. Context pneumatics in Bolton carry everything in stock and cheap too, elbows and tees etc around 80p each.
I commented on your previous post about the elbows under the rear wheel arch. I now think that mine aren't standard. I replaced mine yesterday and had trouble with the collets to the bag leaking so used the aire bag how to to see if there was another way to access them. Lo and behold, the pics had no elbows on them. The airline went straight to the collet. So, I apologise if you spent any time looking for said elbows.😀 moral of story, homework first before you play out. Surprised non of the gurus picked up on it though. Missed out on an opportunity to tell someone off.😆
Hope you get it sorted pal.

There are no elbows or couplers anywhere in the system as standard.

Gadgetz · Jan 18, 2015

I assume the previous owner did it as some sort of repair. Either that or he messed up the pipe when replacing the bags. Always a learning curve these beasts.

EAS emergency bypass parts ?

chopper007

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mgmayo

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Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

tomcat59alan

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chopper007

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tomcat59alan

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chopper007

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tomcat59alan

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chopper007

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tomcat59alan

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dogsbody

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chopper007

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Datatek

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Gadgetz

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Datatek

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Gadgetz

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