EAS Driver Pack

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pwood999

pwood999

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Swapped out my intermittent driver pack this weekend. Any opinions on the colour of the potting compound ??
  • Old one is on the right - intermittent height changes
  • Replacement on the left - Right Front & Rear now will not rise at all

Nanocom & Voltmeter checks next to see why no air to right side of car.

Pete
 

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pwood999 said:
Swapped out my intermittent driver pack this weekend. Any opinions on the colour of the potting compound ??
  • Old one is on the right - intermittent height changes
  • Replacement on the left - Right Front & Rear now will not rise at all

Nanocom & Voltmeter checks next to see why no air to right side of car.

Pete
Click to expand...

Rear always rises first have you got the pipes in the correct places. Or if you stripped block have you swapped solenoid coils around?
 
pwood999 said:
Swapped out my intermittent driver pack this weekend. Any opinions on the colour of the potting compound ??
  • Old one is on the right - intermittent height changes
  • Replacement on the left - Right Front & Rear now will not rise at all
Nanocom & Voltmeter checks next to see why no air to right side of car.

Pete
Click to expand...
Replacement driver pack secondhand? Could be duff. Colour of potting compound will just be type/manufacturer and of no consequence.
 
yes secondhand. I think it's either duff, or bad connections.

Valves not removed so still in correct places.

Pete
 
pwood999 said:
yes secondhand. I think it's either duff, or bad connections.

Valves not removed so still in correct places.

Pete
Click to expand...

Your not listening. If the front and back at one side go up together you either have the solenoid coils in the wrong place. Or the pipes in the wrong place. The two back bags ALWAYS inflate first then the fronts. If you have not removed the solenoid coils it has to be the pipes. Unless someone has changed the wiring around to the plug on the new unit.
 
wammers said:
Your not listening. If the front and back at one side go up together you either have the solenoid coils in the wrong place. Or the pipes in the wrong place. The two back bags ALWAYS inflate first then the fronts. If you have not removed the solenoid coils it has to be the pipes. Unless someone has changed the wiring around to the plug on the new unit.
Click to expand...
Unless the back raises one side then the front as the driver pack is not operating the other 2 solenoids.
 
Datatek said:
Unless the back raises one side then the front as the driver pack is not operating the other 2 solenoids.
Click to expand...

All things are possible Keith but some are highly unlikely. The front won't move until the ecu receives movement readings from the rear sensors. If both front and rear rise at same time on one side he has screwed something up.
 
wammers said:
All things are possible Keith but some are highly unlikely. The front won't move until the ecu receives movement readings from the rear sensors. If both front and rear rise at same time on one side he has screwed something up.
Click to expand...
Odd then that it works with the original driver pack:confused:
 
OK all . . . time for some details. Yes I know the rear should go up first followed by front, but it was definitely rising Rear-Left, then Front-Left only . . . and weirdly no EAS errors even though the heights were completely wrong. . The ECU thought the car was level and stayed on the lean . . more details in a below. . . . . .

So onto the second question in the thread. Can you remove the driver pack without disconnecting airlines. We yes you can using the convenient access holes in the plastic housing . . .see picture. Remove the pump, then loosen the four mounting bolts, and tilt the entire assembly. Then find the screws you dropped, and gently wiggle the driver pack wiring past the valve block. . . . . Actually it was a PITA, so I then took the valve block out anyway :D

So now onto the real problem. I had suspect my old driver pack for a while, so bought a 2nd hand one to play with. Fitted this and still had same issue, ie. zero right rising.

So all out again, and time for some proper bench diagnostics:

  • Connected up driver pack to 12V PSU, and triggered each valve in turn.
  • All working except right-rear.
  • Check valve with 9V battery and it works, so suspect driver pack.
  • Tried again with 2nd pack, and got same problem . . . no right rear operation.

Now what are the chances of two driver packs having identical faults . . . .

So while 12V connected, and RR input tied to 12V, started wiggling wires and the solenoid started working.

  1. The old pack seems to have a bad joint where the ECU wires enter the gunk. Maybe I will dig it out and re-solder ??
  2. The replacement has a problem where the pack output connects to the valve solenoids.

Dismantled the valve block connector, and checked the pins & sockets. ALL 12 are really loose, and don't make proper contact with the pins on the other side. So squashed all 12 sockets gently with pliers, and soldered the crimp joints. Reconnected on bench, and now all the valves operate correctly when I pulse the inputs that would normally be driven by the ECU :)

Refitted to Car, and then used Nanocom to re-fill the tank using garage compressor (don't want to overwork my newly refurbed LR compressor. Forced the valves using Nanocom, and got the car up & level.

Now the car rises on all four corners, and does not error.

Final weird problem (I'm sure somebody else had this but cannot find the thread). With engine running, I clear faults, and then exit EAS Diags. Car is still at Standard Height, so switch off engine. Next time I start the engine, it drops to Access Height, but as soon as I engage drive it reselects Standard. Annoyingly it does this every time I start the engine. I'm sure this is something to do with exiting EAS Diags wrong ??

Pete
 

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pwood999 said:
OK all . . . time for some details. Yes I know the rear should go up first followed by front, but it was definitely rising Rear-Left, then Front-Left only . . . and weirdly no EAS errors even though the heights were completely wrong. . The ECU thought the car was level and stayed on the lean . . more details in a below. . . . . .

So onto the second question in the thread. Can you remove the driver pack without disconnecting airlines. We yes you can using the convenient access holes in the plastic housing . . .see picture. Remove the pump, then loosen the four mounting bolts, and tilt the entire assembly. Then find the screws you dropped, and gently wiggle the driver pack wiring past the valve block. . . . . Actually it was a PITA, so I then took the valve block out anyway :D

So now onto the real problem. I had suspect my old driver pack for a while, so bought a 2nd hand one to play with. Fitted this and still had same issue, ie. zero right rising.

So all out again, and time for some proper bench diagnostics:

  • Connected up driver pack to 12V PSU, and triggered each valve in turn.
  • All working except right-rear.
  • Check valve with 9V battery and it works, so suspect driver pack.
  • Tried again with 2nd pack, and got same problem . . . no right rear operation.

Now what are the chances of two driver packs having identical faults . . . .

So while 12V connected, and RR input tied to 12V, started wiggling wires and the solenoid started working.

  1. The old pack seems to have a bad joint where the ECU wires enter the gunk. Maybe I will dig it out and re-solder ??
  2. The replacement has a problem where the pack output connects to the valve solenoids.

Dismantled the valve block connector, and checked the pins & sockets. ALL 12 are really loose, and don't make proper contact with the pins on the other side. So squashed all 12 sockets gently with pliers, and soldered the crimp joints. Reconnected on bench, and now all the valves operate correctly when I pulse the inputs that would normally be driven by the ECU :)

Refitted to Car, and then used Nanocom to re-fill the tank using garage compressor (don't want to overwork my newly refurbed LR compressor. Forced the valves using Nanocom, and got the car up & level.

Now the car rises on all four corners, and does not error.

Final weird problem (I'm sure somebody else had this but cannot find the thread). With engine running, I clear faults, and then exit EAS Diags. Car is still at Standard Height, so switch off engine. Next time I start the engine, it drops to Access Height, but as soon as I engage drive it reselects Standard. Annoyingly it does this every time I start the engine. I'm sure this is something to do with exiting EAS Diags wrong ??

Pete
Click to expand...

Well done. As for dropping to access, the system allows for this you can select access to let passengers out then when you put in gear to move off it raises to standard. You can override this by pressing EAS lock which is then crawl mode. Car will rise to standard after a certain speed is reached. Maybe the ECU has a twist in it's knickers.
 
I would prefer to remove the "twist in it's knickers". Dropping to access when I start the engine is wearing my pump out !!

Tried setting it manually to standard before switching off, but it didn't work.

Pete
 
pwood999 said:
I would prefer to remove the "twist in it's knickers". Dropping to access when I start the engine is wearing my pump out !!

Tried setting it manually to standard before switching off, but it didn't work.

Pete
Click to expand...

Have you checked the white plug at base of passenger A post can't remember if you have. Otherwise maybe a malfunction in height selector switch or ECU. Switch is crammed full of electronics it's not just a plain switch. Does the auto motorway function work at 50 MPH and knock off below 35 MPH?
 
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Often times if there is a leak and the vehicle has dropped below a certain height, when you go back to it and restart, it thinks 'hold on I was at standard, but now I am at access, so I'll illuminate both lamps and let the driver decide what to do'

You then select drive and the system accepts this as a command to go to Standard and dutifully responds!

Check your system over for leaks when you removed the valve block!
 
Saint.V8 said:
Often times if there is a leak and the vehicle has dropped below a certain height, when you go back to it and restart, it thinks 'hold on I was at standard, but now I am at access, so I'll illuminate both lamps and let the driver decide what to do'

You then select drive and the system accepts this as a command to go to Standard and dutifully responds!

Check your system over for leaks when you removed the valve block!
Click to expand...

Unlikely that all four bags, pipes or solenoid valves are leaking Ant.
 
pwood999 said:
Final weird problem (I'm sure somebody else had this but cannot find the thread). With engine running, I clear faults, and then exit EAS Diags. Car is still at Standard Height, so switch off engine. Next time I start the engine, it drops to Access Height, but as soon as I engage drive it reselects Standard. Annoyingly it does this every time I start the engine. I'm sure this is something to do with exiting EAS Diags wrong ??

Pete
Click to expand...
Nothing to do with exiting diagnostics as far as I'm aware, a wrong exit leaves you with the slow 35mph message.
As Wammers said, connectors in the passenger footwell A post or the height selector switch would be favourites but possibly ECU.
 
wammers said:
Unlikely that all four bags, pipes or solenoid valves are leaking Ant.
Click to expand...
No, but one leaking will make the system relevel to its lowest point every 6 hours, so if during the 6hour period one corner has dropped significantly due to a leak, the others will lower to relevel itself....if it lowers beyond a certain point, it will consider itself in Access height when you restart....
 
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